Umbrella for off-camera Speedlite?

[glenn_s]

I'm ready to move up to better lighting. I was considering some cheap studio

lights. http://www.adorama.com/LTBK1.html After seeing some of the posts in

this forum, I'm considering multiple Speedlites instead.

 

I currently have a 350D and a 420EX. My next step would be a 580EX, which

could trigger the 420EX.

 

My question is: is there a way to use an umbrella with the remote 420EX?

 

I'm envisioning bouncing the camera mounted 580EX to one side, and using the

420EX as the main light from the other side. This will be for family portrait

type stuff - nothing too big or fancy. Is this a lucid idea?

 

Thanks,

Glenn

[ken dennis]

Not sure if this is what you are after but, here is a portable setup that I use, small, compact and easily portable, with the exception of the umbrella and tripod, the rest fits into my camera bag!

 

On top of my tripod, the bottom black piece is a standard flash unit and umbrella holder, about $15.00 that is adjustable for direction, atop it is a slave flash trigger, about $10.00, then my flash, works well for what I need it for!

 

Works even better with my Vivitar 283 or 285HV.

 

Good luck!

 

Ken.

[w.smith]

Hi Glenn,

 

how about taking both the 420EX and 580EX off-camera, on tripods or stands, bouncing if

required, and adding your pop-up flash into the equation? Can the 350D and Speedlite

software handle that?

It would make your lighting much more flexible still.

 

I have a similar system: my "portable studio" basically consists of 3x wireless 5600HS D

flashguns on their own tripods (2 battery sets per), triggered by the pop-up flash on my

camera, a 3' and a 4' silver/white Lastolite reflector. This provides plenty 'oomph', I can

bounce and fake 'softboxes' and balance shadows, and endlessly vary combinations. And

the whole schpiel fits a medium- sized suitcase, so it's perfect for locationwork.

 

A seeming downside is that you have no modelling lights. But, hey!, this is the digital age,

so you simply do a test shot with the real light output, you chimp - on a laptop for a good

view - and adjust if neccessary!

 

I shoot live subjects with unsupported camera, because flash freezes movement anyway,

and it enables me to move around freely, direct the scene, try different angles and

viewpoints, or adjust the lighting.

 

This set also provides TWO backup flashguns for my 'primary' flashgun.

 

The combination of versatility, portability and power means that you use a setup like this

often.

[chris_leck]

Ken, why use an outboard optical slave with the SB-26? One reason for the SB-26's huge popularity in the second-hand market is that it already has a built-in slave. Additionally, the extra slave moves the flash further off the umbrella's axis. Just curious....

 

Glenn, as Ken demonstrates, you can put the flash on a light stand with an umbrella swivel. Swivels are available from Bogen, Photoflex (called a multiclamp), and others.

 

You also may need to get a cold shoe. The Photoflex multiclamp comes with a crude one, but it doesn't work with my Nikon speedlights. I like the Stroboframe version with clamp.

[jimstrutz]

One problem with W. Smith's idea is that with Canon's system the built in flash cannot be used in conjunction with Canon's wireless system. It won't act as a trigger to Canon's wireless E-TTL system, and is fairly difficult to make work with generic slaves and manual flashes. Compounding this is the fact that Canon Speedlites almost always lock up after each shot if triggered by generic slaves.

 

But sure you can do what you want. The 580EX can be used on camera to trigger the 420EX as your main light, or you can get the 580EX a couple feet off camera with a Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 and still get it to master the 420EX. Better yet, you can buy a Canon ST-E2 to act as your wireless master for both flashes and adjust ratios as needed right from the master device.

 

Then mount your remote flash(es) on a light stand and use an umbrella mount and umbrella the way Ken's picture shows, but without the generic optical slave device under your Canon Speedlite.

 

I also agree with Ken, that using cheaper Vivitar 283/285's or something like them as remote flashes with the same umbrella set up is a pretty good way to go. I prefer to set exposures manually anyway with multi-flash setups. So Canon's wireless E-TTL system is a waste of money for me, but others find it a quick and easy solution for remote lighting.

[ken dennis]

Chris

 

I didn't mean to make it look as though I use the 26 on a slave, I put it there for this photo, as it was handy, and my Vivitars where still packed in the bag! :O)

 

I usually use the Vivitars as slave flash, and use my 26 on top of a Stroboframe camera flip bracket, and fire the slaves with it, its estimated that with 2 285's, I am getting around 120ws, not the most powerful, but they do well in general, I have 2-285's and 2-283's, and I carry a duffel full of rechargable's, when I need power, I drag around my Photogenics!

 

And yes, do use a light meter, when setting up multiple strobes, you will find this to be more accurate!

[glenn_s]

thank you all for the info. Speedlights it is.

 

Glenn

[brooks short]

If you're doing family portrait type stuff, get some real studio lighting equipment. Something with modeling lights and the ability to easily use softboxes, grids and snoots etc.

 

 

If you can't or don't want to spend the money for major brand, professional lighting, look at cheaper brands and equipment like Alien Bees.