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URGENT - IS doesn't work anymore on my EOS 30 but does on another canon body


frédéric

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Hello,

I'am currently on a trip in Scotland (thus the emergency) and I noticed today

that the IS doesn't work anymore on my EOS 30 but does on another canon body.

I have tried with other batteries and clened the contacts but the issue

remains.

Looks like the lens is not recognized by the body anymore and would not let

the IS work.

 

I remember that some Sigma lenses would have there autofocus working only if

one contact was neutralized with cello tape. Could this be an answer ? Would

you have any tip to have the IS back ?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Frederic

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Which lens are we talking about? Are we talking autofocus issues with extenders since you bring up taping contacts? Taping contacts is for non-1 series cameras in which you need to tape them with any lens + extender combo resulting in a max aperture >f/5.6.

 

 

How do you know IS isn't working? What is your criteria? Some lenses you can feel the IS kicking in but a lens like the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS I never felt it but it was definitely working. If we're talking about pictures out of focus then you must rule out personal error before blaming IS or AF. Not to say they don't fail but I hear from Canon techs most of the focus problems have to deal with the user.

 

The body doesn't recognize the lens? Does that mean you lose autofocus but your camera doesn't get locked up? If your camera isn't getting locked up then maybe it has to do with the lens max aperture being over f/5.6.

 

Lastly, did this specific lens and camera combo ever work? The camera in which this lens did work, was it a 1-series camera?

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Oh yeah, 1-series and EOS 3 will retain autofocus with a max aperture of f/8, albeit the center point. There could be other EOS cameras that maintain AF but I don't know them.

 

Also, maybe somebody could point out if IS works when autofocus is off, that is IS switched on and manual focus on. When I get home I'll check my manual.

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Hi John,

 

Thanks for your quick answer. Here are some answers :

--1-- I both use the 24-105 L and 100-400 L --2-- I know the IS does not work because I cannot see the image "floating" anymore in the viewfinder as I does usually.--3-- yes the combo of lenses and body already worked.--4-- I went into a shop today and my 24-105 is fine with a 30D (I can see the image floating).

 

Frederic

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This is where I'll let the tech experts take over but I can say that with some IS lenses I see floating but with some I do not. With the 24-105 I never did. With some 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lenses I saw it and others I do not. Same goes for rented supertelephotos. I don't think floating view thru lens qualifies for IS working or not so it will be interesting to see what the experts say. Maybe there are conditions in which floating would be observed and other times not. Could it be a result of focusing on something far in the distance while you have a short focus distance preset clicked? Etc, etc. I must say I saw it mostly in rented lenses and rarely ever with my new IS lenses but that could be coincidence.

 

 

Maybe the most important question is....how do your pictures look? That will be the true test of IS working. Be scientific and compare IS to tripod usage to IS turned off at relatively long shutter speeds.

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<p>I'm inclined to believe that if the original poster has done a bunch of testing and is convinced that IS worked in the past on his body, does not work on his body now, but works with another body, the problem is likely not imaginary. I've owned three IS lenses (28-135 and 300/4, both with older generations of IS which take about a second to reach full effectiveness and are good for about two stops, plus 70-200/2.8, with a newer generation that takes half a second and is good for three stops) over the last seven years, and I don't find it difficult to know if IS is on, so it is likely that the original poster can tell, too.</p>

 

<p>I have never heard of this problem before. There are no pins to tape over which would fix this, and I doubt that any crud on any pins would cause it. There are no pins dedicated to IS; it relies on the same pins as the AF system (motor power and ground, logic power and ground, and the pins to communicate digital messages with the body), so any failure of one or more pins which disabled IS should also take out AF (and possibly other functions as well).</p>

 

<p>There is no linkage between AF and IS on modern bodies. On bodies which are older than IS (i.e. bodies released prior to approximately 1995), IS accidentally gets shut off if you use a lens+TC combination which is slower than f/5.6; the body doesn't know how to shut off AF but not IS because the body doesn't even know IS exists. This issue does not occur on newer bodies such as the 30, nor does it happen based on the position of the AF/MF switch; it happens only with a teleconverter.</p>

 

<p>You've tried your lens on another body in a shop; have you tried another IS lens on your body in a shop? Given that the common thread here seems to be that IS fails only when an IS lens is connected to your body, I suspect you'd find that the shop's IS lens would also fail on your body. That would pretty much nail it down as being your body that's the problem. I'm afraid that's about the best I can do; I can't think of any solutions short of identifying that it is in fact the body that's at fault and then having the body serviced.</p>

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Frederic:

 

I am not expert in Canon IS functionality, but am in electronics generally, and have been around a few cameras with problems in the field.

 

 

If I assume everything previously stated is fact then:

 

1. it is necessary to isolate the body or something in it as the cause, as Mr Dunn outlined.

 

2. So if the IS does work using third body, then the first line of attack would be to assume that the problem body is not supplying sufficient power to the lens for IS to function: my GUESS is that Image Stabilization consumes more power than auto focus.

 

3. Adequate power supply is dependent upon many factors including, amongst others: ambient temperature, humidity, battery condition, connectivity of ALL contacts.

 

It would not be a waste of time to recheck and clean and dry ALL contacts in your power supply chain, including battery contacts and ensure that all batteries are in good condition: buy a new one if possible.

 

Hope this helps and good luck WW

 

BTW it just proves useful to always have a second body handy.

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The EOS 30 is not noted as a body that has any significant history of problems with IS lenses, unlike for example several DSLRs in particular with the 70-200 f/2.8 IS (but that was either early camera firmware or the lens). However, that is not to say that the body won't ever fail when using IS, and it does seem that this is what has happened in this instance.
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Sorry, my mistake, in the hurry i read 30D.Nevertheless my eos 33 body stop working in time to time when used with 75-300 IS (but i have the same problem with my 20Dbody) Never with eos 3, 1V and 300 film bodies.With camera ON i remove the lens and then put it back and the problem - solved.
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