ben_rubinstein___mancheste1664880652 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I used to have this every now and again with my 20D and 50mm 1.4 shooting ambient only wide open, I shot a job last night at a Barmitzva with my 5D and 85mm 1.8 wide open and I got it in almost every shot. Seemed to be only horizontal and it moved across the frame between shots. <i>The WB is exactly the same for each pair as is all other settings in ACR and I could see this band of yellow on screen when shooting</i>. Help?<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_holt Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 It's caused by the refresh cycle of flourescent lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_holt Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I can't remember if you're supposed to shoot with a faster or slower shutter speed to avoid it - but searching for "flourescent banding" may turn up an answer from someone who knows. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ni_gentry Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Yes, flourecent lights. Slow down your shutter speed to about 1/60th. Depending on the cycle time of the lights, I find the limit to be anywhere between 1/30th and 1/125th. Or you could use flash to overpower the ambient light on your subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don_hill Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Ben, I don't know if this will help but I get the same results with my 5D when shooting fast lenses wide open at a high ISO, 800 - 1600. This has occured with the 50 1.4, 85 1.8, and the 100 2. </p>The yellow banding appears on the 5D and 20D when I am shooting available light under flourescent light (wide open). I have found two ways to avoid it. First, it disappears when you use a flash. That may not be the best solution depending on your technique. Second, as it is tied to fast lenses at high ISO's (in my case), I have found that if I shoot at a lower ISO (200 - 400) it generally disappears.</p>Hope this helps, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_rubinstein___mancheste1664880652 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 It was under fluorecents but although I thought that could be the problem, I was confused in that it seemed to be horizontal in the horizontal shots and vertical in the vertical until someone reminded me that this was the way the shutter travels, duh! Next problem, I can't handhold a 1/60th consistently with an 85mm lens, ouch! The whole idea was to have a 2nd camera to my other 5D with flash for very shallow DOF and ambient only. Guess I'll have to keep away from the damn fluorecents or just B&W all of them (which is what I did last time this happened!). I don't suppose that the fluorecents could also be the culprit for my extremely inconsistenly focusing camera (the other 5D with 24-70L)? The amount of OOF shots last night is truly embarressing but I did everything I should have done, the damn camera kept focusing on the subject behind the one with the focus point on it. I know it focuses fine half the time, it's perfectly accurate, but half the time it's always sharp and focused, on the background. I don't focus recompose, I make sure there is loads of contrast, etc, etc. Could the fluorecents have anything to do with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annealmasy Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 The solution is WOW look at all these beautiful B&Ws! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conraderb Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Ben - i bet that you were shooting FASTER than 1/60th in a fluorescent room, right? fluorescent refresh roughly 60 times each second, so if you don't catch a full refresh, you get some parts of the spectrum in the image and not others. shoot at or below 1/60th and I think you should be okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conraderb Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 and I don't think that it is directly related to ISO - and indirectly only because changing your ISO can get you to 1/60th or slower. anne's solution is a good one - NICE B/W SHOTS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Ben--it just happens sometimes. I have previously reported that on my 20D, sometimes the focus migrates from the subject to the background when it abosolutely shouldn't. I've watched it happen in the viewfinder, and I was doing everything I should have--One Shot, closest focus point, etc. The first time I noticed it, I was even in very bright sunlight, so I was dumbfounded and couldn't figure a possible reason and still can't. When it is really important, I use manual focus--also when I am outside and the background is contrasty foliage, no matter what the lighting is like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_rubinstein___mancheste1664880652 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Nadine, just tested it, under fluorecent light with my 5D and 24-70L, 5/5 shots were badly front focused. Turn off the fluorecent light and 5/5 were pin sharp. Ouch, that is a serious problem. Tried it out with my other 5D, exactly the same thing, seems either my 24-70L is sensitive to fluorescent light, well it hits the garbage tomorrow, hope I can get hold of another one prior to the wedding. Otherwise I'll rent one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Yikes--you would think that would be documented somewhere before this... I wonder why. Anyone have any theories? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_rubinstein___mancheste1664880652 Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I'm hoping to hell that it is just my copy as I'm going to be renting one tomorrow with no time to find out if it's all of them! I will of course be testing it first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conraderb Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Ben - that is STRANGE. I never heard of a lens focusing differently based on what type of light it is looking at. Just fyi, my 24-70 L doesn't seem to have any problems under fluorescent or any other light. Occasionally it will misfocus but that's b/c I am working a bit too quickly and I'm not patient - not because of the lens or the light it is seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug_axford1 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 The 'off-color' shots are easily fixable in PS. Simply put all of them into a separate folder, then batch them at once. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 This is a function of the flourescent tubes. I get it a lot in the changing areas of churches, etc. B&W rules in this case... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_myers Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 By the way, mains frequency in the uk is 50Hz not 60Hz ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_rubinstein___mancheste1664880652 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Just got back from shooting a 12 hour wedding with a friends 24-70L it was razor sharp with all lighting, can't possibly explain why my copy of the lens is doing that, maybe one of the exotic elements is in the wrong way round or something? It exonerates my 2 5D's at least, I was getting worried! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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