Can the 50mm 1.8 be used as a macro lens?

[robertin_m]

Can it?

[anupam]

Not by itself. But almost any lens can be used as a macro lens by using diopters in front or extension behind it.

[stephen hazelton]

It depends on what you mean by macro lens. Quite often, normal prime lenses will focus as close as a lot of "macro" zooms will. If it would focus to 1:1 (life size image on the film), then they would market it as a macro. How close do you need to go?

 

You can also buy reversing rings fairly cheap and extension rings for more money that will let you get closer with a prime lens.

[stephen hazelton]

On B&H's site, they show the Nikon Normal AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D Autofocus Lens having a magnification of 1:6.6. IE, maximum size on film is 1/6.6 the life size. You blow up a 4x6 print about 4.2 times when you enlarge. So if you shoot at minimum focusing distance, then make a 4x6 print, the object on the print will be about 2/3 life size, if that helps.

[NetR]

Yes, reverse it.

[dan_fromm1]

Yeah, sure, why not? Not as good or as convenient as, say, a 55 MicroNikkor, but if you have a 50/1.8 and extension devices or diopter lenses go ahead. The best lens you have now is the one you have now.

 

About reversing it, not good advice. A general rule is, if the lens is designed to be used at magnfications below 1:1, e.g., for general out-and-about photography, use it mounted normally up to 1:1, reverse it for use above 1:1. This because the lens is optimized for "large in front, small behind." But if the lens is designed to be used above 1:1 like, e.g., the 63/4.5 Zeiss Luminar, then it doesn't need to be reversed when used as intended.

[lance_baker2]

Robby,

How confusing all of this must be. Almost any normal lens in the range of 20-135mm (not a tele design) can be used reversed but you will find that the only practical way to focus is to move the camera/lens closer or farther from the subject. It is a pain for all but copy work.

 

Speaking of copy work, a reversed lens usually will not have good focus at the corners of the frame and at the center simultaneously when the subject is a flat surface unless you use certain "best kept secret" lenses such as the 50mm f2.0 or a well-designed true macro lens. Two things make a true macro (or micro) lens; extreme movement away from the film plane when focusing and acurate corner to center focus on a plane subject near the front of the lens. The optical designers don't usually consider what happens when you reverse the lens to photograph a postage stamp.

[tommyinca]

A simple way, get one of this used (long discontinued) Vivitar 2X "focusing macro" converter. Yes it is not as good as a 105mm macro but it does most what it could do.<div></div>

[anupam]

I second the Vivitar Macro 2x converter suggestion. If you have the 50/1.8 then the $30 or so converter is the easiest way to get a 100mm macro that goes to 1:1.