garethspics Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I am relatively new to 5x4 and have been having some success developing in a Paterson 35mm tank. It can take 3 reels of 35mm so I develop two sheets of 5x4. I have got round the problem of the sheets wandering around and overlapping by using the 35mm reel holders separated enough to hold just the edges of the film in place. If I give the same development time and agitation as I would for 35mm or 120 the contrast is noticeably lower. Do I need a presoak? There seems to be a lot of debate about this. If I increase development time by about 20% the contrast looks about right. Could it be that my Crown Graphic's Xenar lens is very much lower contrast than my 35mm lenses? I know the exposures are spot on because I have shot transparencies with this setup. I know trays are the preferred way to go but are not practical in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbg90455 Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Assuming you are using the same chemicals and the same film (and assuming HP5 is the same in the different sizes), it should be the same. I am using TMAX film in both 35mm and in 4x5, and although I use different tanks (a JOBO tank for the 4x5s), the times are essentially the same -- subject to adjustments of testing your film in your camera/lens/meter combination... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed_brock2 Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I use HP5 on a regular basis in 5x7 and in 120. I process both in Patterson daylight rollfilm tanks using the same time/temperature charts. There seems to be no difference in contrast. I would suspect your lens. I develop @ 68 degrees for 11 min. with 10 sec agitation per min. (3-4 inversions). This is with D76 @ 1:1. By the way, there is a better way of getting the sheet film into the Patterson tank. Some use rubber bands to hold the film into a folded "taco". I use "Taco Sacks" (fiberglass screen fabric sewn into tubes)to hold the sheet film into folded "tacos" inside the Patterson tank. I can then stack 3-4 sheets of 5x7 per layer depending on if they are folded into long or short "tacos". If you are using 4x5 you would be able to get 12 into the deep version of that tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_andrews10 Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 A pre-soak isn't necessary unless you're using rotary agitation, like with a Jobo tank. It might help if you're getting "tide lines" or air bubbles from the time it takes to fill the tank, but it won't affect the developing time or contrast appreciably. Nice improvisation with the Paterson tank, BTW. I blew loads of cash on a Jobo tank and sheet film reel, and wish I'd thought of your cheaper option. Yes, sheet film usually does need more development than 35mm or roll film. In fact most film data sheets recommend a longer time for sheet film. Your + 20% is about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 Within manufacturing tolerences, any format will have the contrast as the other. Shine a light thru the Optar. I`ll bet it`s full of haze. If not the basic design is just lower contrast than modern glass. If you find haze, clean it. If not, just develope longer. Modern 4x5 glass has the same contrast as modern 35, ie much higher than LF was 45 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethspics Posted February 17, 2006 Author Share Posted February 17, 2006 Thanks for the replies. I have checked the lens and it crystal clear. Bellows are fine,too and the transpsrencies are good and contrasty so it must be the development. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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