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Please Help! Underexposure Issue!


thenixer

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I am a new Hasselblad 500c/m owner with the older 80mm T* (chrome)

lense. I shot several test roles with the new camera and out of the

two rolls only two pictures actually came out and they were very dark

and streaked. I've tried a few more rolls with the same results.

 

I read quite a bit here and tested my lens using suggestions from

David Odess to take the back off and fire looking at the sky or

something bright and the lens seemed to test well at all settings.

 

I have Fuji ISO 100 loaded in an A12 film back. Does the slower film

speed cause this? Wolf Camera told me my camera would need to be set

to take 100 speed film (and I'm not really sure what that means).

Should I just get a faster film or is this mechanical? I'm truly

bummed so any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have a few pics posted to show you what I'm talking about!

 

Jeff Jackson

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You don't "set" the 500 C/M for film speeds, you would use an external meter set at whatever ISO that you are using in our back. So if you meter for 400 ISO but you load 100 you will be underexposed. Shutter speed and aperture are set on the lens itself. You are not using a meter prism out of curiosity? Also reccomend that you purchase The Hasselblad Manual be Ernst Wildi, it a great tool or a 500 C/M instruction book, you will find it is a great help when starting.

 

Derek Rader

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(Derek... thanks for starting the replies. I've been scratching my head for the past 20 minutes! I'm finding it amazing that there have been numerous posts lately from folks who bought a Hassy to 'learn on' but never read a manual/book.)

 

Jeff,

 

Derek is right about setting ASA and the effects of setting the light meter wrong. But, you never told us how you metered... would you please be specfic. You will be able to get great exposures with any speed film, provided you are metering correctly, have an accurate shutter, and the camera is operating correctly. I'm suspecting that exposure is a light measurement issue. As I said... do tell!

 

The light streaking is quite odd and would lead me to suspect a problem with the back. If the there was a streak only on the side of the film by the dark slide, the problem (light seals) would be more obvious. The dark streak down the middle makes me less certain of what that problem may be.

...
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I have a meter prism that I need to get a battery for. Right now I'm just using the regular waist level view finder. I was looking at the Ernest Wildi book and from your recomendation will have to hunt one down. The lighting was very bright for both pictures so I figured they might end up over exposed instead of the way they came out. Not to mention out of two rolls only two came out. Although I wouldn't consider them a success based on how they look.
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Brian, a manual came with my 500c/m and I've read it cover to cover. I'll get the book mentioned above and will gladly read it as well. I was interested to hear what someone might tell me if I asked, so I did. A veteran user is a great resource. Sorry if it's a bother.

 

To answer your question, I didn't use a meter. But like I said the room was very well lit in both instances. But like you said, I am a beginner and I'll get to metering my shots. Thanks for the help!

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Estimating the light indoors is more difficult than estimating the light outdoors. Indoor light always seems more bright to the eye than a lightmeter indicates!

 

Outside you can probably use "sunny-16" to get a good ballpark estimate if you don't have a meter yet. Try your next roll outdoors and you'll likely get more usable shots. It might even help figure out what's going on with that odd streaking.

...
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If you dont have a light meter... do you have another camera you can use as a meter? I use my Olympus OM-1 as my main light meter when Im shooting medium format. Just about any 35mm SLR will let you use it as a meter, just set the ASA to the same film speed you are using on your Hassy. Its also nice because I can shoot 35mm of the same scene and get a different, cheaper point of veiw on the same location.
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Your streaking problem is definitely caused by a light leak, most likely in the back. Do you have more than one back and can you try another one to see if it leaks also?

 

You can buy a do-it-yourself kit on ebay for about $25--the seller's ID is something like "blackbird" I think. It's easy to install and does the trick. I replace my light seals about every year on my backs, but then they get a pretty good workout.

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Thanks all for your interest. I do have two A12 backs so I suppose one could be giving me the slightly useable roll and the other back giving me nothing at all. I have seen the light seals on eBay and they do come with instructions so I'll replace the seals in both just to edge that out. "Ninevoltsales" has several up at the moment.

 

I don't have another meter (I have a Sony f828 digital) but I do have the old Hasselblad 45ᄚ Metering Prism, I just need to order a battery for it. I doubt I'll find that battery walking in anywhere. However a cheap 35mm might be worth getting just for that purpose.

 

I have been taking the dark slide out. I suppose you could pull it out just far enough and leave it there and forget.

 

I am heading to Atlanta this weekend. There are better shops there so I will have to take my Hasselblad with me. Maybe they can take a look at it over the counter and spot something obvious. Hmmm, that would be nice.

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Well, I developed a few more rolls and one of the backs isn't producing negatives at all. I am consistently getting one blank roll and the other roll will only produce a negative when there is extreme light (such as a lamp or chandelier) in the picture. I've ordered new light seals. Hopefully that will fix my problems. Thanks all for your help.
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Jeff, something more than light seals is wrong. You should be getting better results than you're describing.

 

It's starting to sound like you also have a problem with the body or the shutter. I'm assuming that the film in the back that isn't producing anything is actually being transported from one spool to the other -- right? If so, *something* should have been recorded on the film. As far as the other back goes... only getting imaging of really bright light is probably an exposure issue, not a back issue. The streaking you saw in your earlier test rolls might be light seal leakage but that kind of problem doesn't explain why you're not getting much recorded on the film.

 

I know you said that you checked the shutter already... but I'm becoming convinced that you have a problem there or with the barn door shutter on the body.

 

Did you shoot outdoors or indoors? How did you estimate exposure this time? What were your EV settings... I'd guess they should have been around 11 to 15 for outdoors (depending on light, latitude, etc) and 8 to 10 for indoors with a mix of incandesent and window light. These are typical for me using 200 ASA film.

 

This must be getting you down... but don't be too bummed. It's all part of buying 2nd-hand Hassy equipment. Much of it has been used quite heavily by pros in their earlier life.

...
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I have a roll that I did take outdoors that I haven't developed yet. All of my examples so far are indoors. What concerns me is the body seems to be responding fine but I'm used to either much simpler cameras or digital. I found out I have to work this weekend so a trip to Atlanta has been bumped to next weekend.

 

I judged EV settings based off what I picked up from others. I went as low as 6 and as high as 16. 6 being indoor at night and 16 bright sunny day outside. I will develop the outdoor shots asap and see what that tells me.

 

Paul, hope I'm not wasting everyone's time! Maybe a light meter would solve everything. Yes, I am just using the waste level finder. Hopefully no one gasps when I say this, but... I have found a few scales online that tell you what settings to use for your environment and that is all I have had to go by.

 

I put two more photos up on the link from my initial post. I've also started to take notes on each picture I take and I think that may help as well. Thanks all.

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"Hopefully no one gasps when I say this, but... I have found a few scales online that tell you what settings to use for your environment and that is all I have had to go by."

 

OH, MY GOODNESS! Actually, these exposure estimations tend to be decent ballpark estimates.

 

What film did you use this time, by the way -- 100 ASA negative?

...
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All of the above responders (except MAG!) have valid points. First it sounds like you have a light leak and you know how to address it.

 

Second, YOU NEED TO GET A HAND HELD LIGHT METER! Even if you are going to use the Meter Prism you should get a hand held and do comparisons with the meter prism. Once you get your meter prism working, you should shoot test exposures to find out if the meter is accurate or adjust based upon the test exposures. Film is cheap. Missing the crucial shot is the most costly thing you can experience!

 

Additionally, have your shutters checked for accuracy. Slow gummy shutters not only would produce over exposures (the opposite of your apparent problem) but will be inconsistant and you will typically not be able to compensate for them. It's worth a CLA (clean, lube and adjust) for the sake of consistency.

 

finally, you should learn to bracket your exposures, especially in light situations for which you are not familiar.

 

So, work out the mechanical issues first. Get the CLA and then get the hand held light meter and learn to use it correctly.

 

After all of that start test shooting and see if your metering falls within exceptable standards.

 

Vic Lioce

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Jeff,<br><br>Despite what has been said so far, i do not see any evidence of a magazine light leak.<br>The streaks are strange, but not what i would expect if the magazine had a leak. What would cause it if notthat, i don't know. Could be a couple of things.<br><br>For the rest, i can only repeat others: do not expect exposures even near correct in difficult light situations, without using a meter...
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I've priced a few light meters and they seem to range anywhere from $50 to a very cool Sekonic L-558 for $450. Would it be wise to get a camera body with a good light meter or just buy a light meter outright? What do you guys use and find dependable?

 

Also, I purchased the light seals so I'll tuck those away if infact I do not need them now. I will obviously need them at some point. I also picked up a Wildi Hasselblad Manual (3rd. ed) off eBay and it is on it's way. Thanks all for the pointers and your time.

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