Photos in India

[stephen_jones8]

Travelling to India with Leica M and 3 lenses in December, Would like advice from anyone

who has been there especially concerning problems they may have experienced while

travelling around. Safety tips for example, or advice for dealing with entrance fees for

photography at tourist sires etc,Planning to carry gear in small Lowe Pro waist bag where I

can keep an eye on it at all times.Not taking a tripod.

I am intending to take pictures for exhibition. Would normally use reversal film stock but

am thinking it might be better to use negative film which I could also get good scans from

as well as large prints. What do you think?

 

Appreciate any advice from photographers who have 'done' India.

 

Steve

[w._veena]

Hi

 

I went to India some years ago, but I wasn't a very experienced photog at that time (neither am I now :)

 

I did not experience any problems taking pictures except: the formation of curious crowds (if this qualifies as problem..) - I was using a crappy Nikon F60 and that was already a sensation. But I think a Leica is quite inconspicous.

 

Second I was taking pictures of a railway station and this is something which indian police officers do not like too much (every guidebook says this as well). But no consequences (in my case) except unambiguous signs from the officer's side not to take any more pictures.

 

It's not your question but I took too much equipment to India. At times it was kind of cumbersome. But it depends of the style of traveling. With backpack I would only bring one small camera an one or two lenses.

 

I was using color negative and b/w film and was not afraid to have it developed in local photo stores :)) My b/w films got funny grain and color results were not too bad as well. Pretty cheap but nothing what I could recommend.

 

One more thing: I was proud of bringing back some nice pics from India because this was my first real travel-photography experience. But I've got a new benchmark when I saw what Stefan Rohner shows us from India. I admire his work. It's very inspiring though I doubt if I could create something comparable. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=527561

 

Regards

Wolfgang

[david_henderson]

You're probably wise not to take a tripod since virtually every one of the sites I visited refused to let me take it in, never mind use it. Apparently there is a procedure with some ministry or another to get permissions but it can be a little long winded.

 

Most of the major monuments seem to charge extra for tourists than locals. Mostly its pretty trivial but at the Taj Mahal it isn't. I can't remember (my visit was December 2001 on an assignment) specific fees for photography and if so they wern't huge. They do get quite hung up about the difference between still and videa photography and I suspect you'll have an easier time than I did with a bag of Bronicas.

 

In Delhi at least its best to hire a driver by the day. You won't be able to get around too easily independently and you won't even be able to read the road signs. A driver/vehicle for the day doesn't cost a lot, and there's none of the "I've worked 8 hours and that's your lot mate" attitude, so you can get around inside and outside the cities to places like Fatephur Sikri (sp).

 

A few issues. First everywhere you go you'll get hassled by people who want to sell you things/give you a ride/be your guide/just beg. This is more intrusive and persistent in tourist India than in any other location I've photographed. Even inside the monuments people will approach you claiming to be your allocated (and free) official guide - none of which is true. Guides will try very hard indeed to get you into shops since they are given commission for bringing customers and more if they buy. You'll learn the art of concentration in India.

 

Second, in guidebooks you'll see pictures of monuments surrounded by beautiful pools of water. Well with few exceptions I found no water in the pools and this restricts/changes your photography somewhat. Even the river at Agra was a lot narrower and shallower than I expected and the typical "reflection of Taj in river from desert side" was harder than you'd think.

 

Spend a late pm/sunset at Humayun's tomb. If you're not going to Varanesi take a boat along the ghats at Mathura -near Agra. The main sights are very popular amongst Indians too. If you want quiet ( and quiet in India is purely a relative term) be very early.

 

Some of the available shots are a bit gloomy for hand-holding. Some fast-ish film will be more than useful.

[boris earth]

Hi Steve, I visited Calcutta in September and took a rolleiflex and Leica M6 taking black &

white street photos. I suggest that less is more ie your leica should be good as its best to

travel light & I suggest using ISO400 film & colour slide films. I didn't have many problems

with crowds except for a lot of kids at Belur Math. Have a great trip!

 

http://www.igloomelts.blogspot.com/

[neil_grant]

You dont mention which part of India your visiting - or for how long. December in Delhi is

pretty grotty for light and similarly Agra - could be misty. If you want to see the Taj

brilliant

white against an intense blue sky, then early November is better. India is very safe for

travellers and English is widely spoken. Suggest you use autorickshaws for transport

around town and cities rather than taxis, as they're cheaper and more fun. Negotiate price

for journey BEFORE. Tipping is expected in India, and no one seems to have any change -

so

try to build up a collection of Ten Rs notes. If you familiar with transparent film stick with

it.

My preference was for RDP 2, but last time I used Velvia 100F - which was a bit too

contrasty.

Entrance fees vary from site to site - there's often an additional charge for a film camera

of a few Rs, much more for Video cameras. Its all clearly signposted. I used to carry quite

a bit of stuff packed into a Tamrac bag that just fitted beneath an airline seat. On one

occasion this held F100, 28PC, 35PC, 80-400VR, 24-120, SB 28 plus an X-PAN with all 3

lenses - and about 60 films. Got a pretty funny look at customs but they let me in OK.

Enjoy your trip.

[stephen_jones8]

Isn't photo net great? I was surprised to get these replies so quickly! Thanks for your

replies, it's all genuinely useful stuff.

I'll be visiting the Taj Mahal anyway but at least I know now what I'm up against in terms of

good weather.If it's overcast or poor lighting I'll just make the best of it and photograph

details or switch to Black and White. I'm not planning to stay in Delhi very long, my other

destinations are Johdpur, khajuraho, orchha, Ellora,Ajanta and finally Mumbai. About two

days in each place.Varanasi is not on the list this trip so thanks for the suggestion about

the river at Agra.Glad that you confirmed my thinking about leaving the tripod behind. I

used to lug one of those around S.E. Asia with an SLR system in the heat. Never again,

especially after the time it jammed in Thailand ( it wouldn't collapse down) and I had to

struggle with it fully extended on the bus! I think I can handhold the Leica as I have steady

hands, but I'm sure I'll miss the tripod for shots of buildings where i have to keep things

level. Oh well...

I had also considered taking a digital camera for this trip but decided the power (battery)

and transfer problems to storage devices etc, would be just too much hassle especially

afer a hard day taking pictures. I think film is still best for travel photography.

thanks agian,

 

Steve

[catherineadams]

I traveled through India for a year doing research, then spent the following

summer in Delhi doing research in a museum. I was canvasing large towns

and small villages for textile weavers. As an art history student, I of course

took slides--all 100iso Ektacrome. It worked out well. I wouldn't recommend

highly saturated color film, whether slide or negative, since the color is

already there (of course, I did focus on women's textiles and the people who

made them).

 

You asked for tips. Safety really is about demeanor. I'm a woman traveling

alone. There were some incredibly beautiful moments because of that, as

well as some horrible ones. Along the way, I learned what I called my secrets.

One was not to look people in the eyes too liberally (in fact, to this day, I do

not). Rather, looking someone in the eyes is a path to connection (or, at least,

it was for me). So, if you photograph people, engaging them with the eyes

and a smile can go along ways. And this can translate into every

circumstance--from rick-shaws to street vendors (I only ate what was sold on

the streets, as it is the best food I've ever found), etc. Of course, maybe you

know this. But I was initially shocked at how a smile could melt someone and

how quickly they became an uncle or aunt or sister along the way. If you want

a safety tip, this is one--because there are times you are going to want to sit

under a chai-wala's umbrella and simply close your eyes.

 

Do not be afraid of rick-shaws and their prices. I never once had a problem--

they ALL used their meter for me. When going to a more remote place, they

waited outside for me--sure, for a reasonable price, but it makes sense to pay.

Of course, I know Hindi (or Urdu, according to the rick-shaw drivers) and no

one took me for an North American (I speak Hindi with a French accent for

some reason, according to my Bengali professor). Thus, my second tip is to

learn a bit of Hindi before you go. Respect is important. Showing it through

formal language (even in a few phrases, and especially in how you address

people) will impress. Moreover, it will allow you talk with the chai-wala on the

street, thus nearly ensuring sincere capitivating photos. Then, if you have a

confrontation in a public place and the policeman is laughing with the gang of

boys (this happened), you can tell the cop off in Hindi and watch him and rest

sculk away.

 

Despite the few moments of real terror (I had to pull out a knife twice in Uttar

Pradesh), I largely found the experience uplifting and not dangerous

(urksome, often, but not dangerous). In not even the cheapest of hostels/

hotels were my bags bothered. The children, though, have clever fingers--a

girl in a Gujurati village slipped a gold safety-pin right off my kameez. I

wouldn't have known it if she hadn't pointed out it was "missing." But that was

the only "trouble" I had as far as theives. Leaving largish back-packs in a train

station is very safe (of course, use locks on all baggage). I spent two weeks in

Orrisa with a small messenger bag with a change of clothes, shampoo, and

my camera, then picked up the bag with no problems. My Indian husband

and his family cannot believe all this, being from a wealthy priest family. We

are going for two weddings in June. This is what I'll bring (by now, my photos

are not for slide presentations but for exhibition): knock-about SLR with wide

and portrait lens, Fuji 645 (because my husband needs something with

autofocus), a table-top tripod, lightmeter, and an "array" of film. If this is for

exhibition, I recommend a variety of ISOs and switching out when necessary.

Film adds bulk, but you really don't need more than a few pair of clothes on

your back, a journal and/or book (?), a very light towel, and the swiss army

knife you can pick up in Delhi (not to pull on people, just incredibly useful).

 

My very last two tips: in Delhi, go to one of those culture houses that sells all

kinds of regional artisan items and get a man's wool shawl. This served me

for a year as an extra bed covering (trains, buses), something to sit on, a

jacket, etc. Second, the national textile and handicrafts museum often

showcases regional artisans making their art. They love to talk and allow

photography at no charge. (Ask the rickshaw driver to wait, as they are not

readily available near that avenue.)

[christopher perez]

I travel regularly to southern India on business. For my "off work hours" adventures I carry the lightest photo kit I can. I like working in 120 and 4x5 formats.

 

Successful India travel is partially attitude. If you are open happy smiling, people around you will be likewise. If you don't want to be hasseled beyond belief, either negotiate to buy whatever is being vended, or use "no" as a complete sentence and mean it.

 

I had no problem carrying a tripod during my last visit to India. But since I am settling into a nice pace now that I travel regulary, I was able to slow down and go places where a tripod didn't matter too much. In fact, using a beautiful Ikeda Anba 4x5 super light weight kit (all up, including three lenses, camera, film holder, tripod, and light meter - less than 7 pounds) I made hundreds of new friends. Nearly everyone was interested in what I was doing. Even the vendors who usually hassle everyone stopped to ask questions and to talk a bit.

 

So, patience. Adaptability. If something doesn't work the way you want it to, just let it happen the way it will. Everything works out.

 

Have a WONDERFUL time in India. It's one of the most amazing, beautiful, interesting places on the planet.

[christopher perez]

<A HREF="http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/india/indiaLF.html">I guess I could have included a link to some of my work in India.</A>

<p>

It's not as complete as some who work in smaller formats and can work rapidly... but... I like the image quality of 11x14 and 16x20 inch enlargements that working in Large Format provide. :-)

[j.martin___]

I travelled to southern India (Kerala and Tamil Nadu) for a month around 5 years ago. I took a Mamiya 7 with two lenses, and an Olympus OM-4T with 2 lenses. All of this fit into a slightly smaller Domke bag which never left my side. I also took a tripod, which is great in theory, and which I would have used more, but it spent most of its time in my pack in hotel rooms. I shot colour negative film, mostly because I had been shooting that almost exclusively for about six years. My practice was to have it processed -- develop only. I then rented darkroom time and made contacts and work prints. Personally, I did and would, take the film back with me.

 

One anecdote. I was going into a temple in Kannyakumari, and was told by the custodian to leave my camera bag with him. Even before running into the writer who had her sandals stolen while she went into a temple (can't wear shoes), this didn't seem like a good idea. We negotiated and I agreed to pay for a "guide" to accompany me (a pretty nominal amount), presumably to ensure that I didn't take pictures. When we got to the roof, the guide offered to take a picture of me, which I thought was pretty funny considering. So I set the shutter speed, aperture and focused the lens. And he took the picture. Of course he just had to change the focus. Everyone's a photographer...

 

Enjoy your trip.

[roger_hicks1]

A long lens is useful for Khajuraho if you want details of any of the sculptures. They're not so much pornographic as charming. Consider a monopod, though the use (though not usually the carrying) of even these is sometimes banned e.g. in Old Goa.

 

Still photo fees are normally trivial; as someone else said, video is much more.

 

I was lucky on my only trip to Agra: water in the reflecting pools. It's pure chance, though.

 

I lost some quite valuable kit on my second or third trip to India some 20 years ago to someone who was 'helping' me get on a train in a hurry. Mistrust anyone who tries to do anything quickly in India... Since them (several more trips), no problems.

 

Away from the heavy tourist areas, which are inevitably a magnet for thieves, I have always been very impressed by the honesty and helpfulness of most Indians. And the best time of my life was a 4000 km tour around south India on an Enfield Bullet.

 

Cheers,

 

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

[vandit]

A few miscellaneous comments:

 

The amount of water you find in pools, etc. has to do with how good the monsoons were. This year, the monsoons have been quite good, so your water shots should be better.

 

If you dont want to be hassled too much and feel bad ignoring people, simply put on your headphones. Of course, then you are less likely to strike a personal rapport with people - so the tradeoff is yours to make.

 

Safety - keep an eye on your gear, that's about it. No one is going to mug you. So your plan sounds about right.

 

Entrance fees - they're posted and that's what you gotta pay. You arent likely to be ripped off there.

 

As for "done" India - we run photo tours here and after quite a few years, havent come close to being done! There is a lot to see and experience.

 

Enjoy the trip!

 

Cheers,

Vandit

[warren_apel]

Hi Steve,<br>

I've lived in New Delhi for 4 years now. India is such a great place to take photos. Some of the previous answers have been spot on; tripods are banned from some places, and require a payment in others. I carry a mini-tripod (just a 3 or 4" tall one that fits in a pocket in my camera bag) for those moments when you need some support. Aside from the Taj Mahal, I've never had a problem with carrying it.

<P>

The monsoons (and even some more recent off-season rains) have been heavy this year, so you'll see more water than at some other times.

<P>

Entrance fees (like mentioned above) are prohibitive for video cameras, and often for "professional cameras," but I don't think the guards will consider a Leica professional. They're looking for giant zoom lenses.

<P>

I've had really bad luck getting film developed here, even in the best shops. I'd recommend bringing all your film home with you for processing. It's easy, even in remote villages, to find an internet cafe with a CDROM burner, so digital photography is oh-so-easy. When your CF card is full, just have it burned onto disc at a neighborhood internet stand. And you'll usually have access to an electrical outlet -- if you choose to take your digital setup, make sure your charger is 220V capable, and bring a plug converter for the European 2-round-pin.

<P>

In places where photography is prohibited (interiors of Hindu temples, certain military sites, etc) I've never had a problem leaving my camera bag at coat check. But in general, (aside from high security spots like the Taj and the birthplace of Krishna in Mathura) if you acknowledge that you understand the rules and promise not to take photos, and keep your camera in the bag, they'll let you bring it in.

<P>

The best vantage point for crowd photography is often in a bicycle rickshaw. You get amazing 360 views of the crowds, and you move through slowly enough to compose, but fast enough not to draw onlookers.

<P>

You'll have onlookers. It's easier just to accept them as "new friends" rather than try to shoo them away. Indian people, especially in rural areas, love to see their photo. If you are shooting digital, you can show them the photos you took of them. They get a kick out of that. Keep a small notebook so you can jot down addresses and mail prints to people you've photographed.

<P>

Another suggestion (and maybe the only one that hasn't already been made!) is that Indian people like to be photographed. It's not like Cairo, where they'll ask for money afterwards or get mad at you for asking. BUT. The smiling happy elderly farmer will turn into a stoic soldier when you aim the camera. I think it's got something to do with the British Colonial influence, or the fact that most of the photos they've had have been for passport photos. Hard to tell. My trick is to smile, point to the camera, and ask "photo OK?" (which, in Hindi, is "photo teekay?" [it's spelled <I>thik hain</i> sometimes, but pronounced like T.K.]) They smile and say OK, or wag their head sideways, which means the same thing. Then they stand up straight and frown for the photo. Here's the trick. After you take the frowny photo, you smile and say thank you (<i>danyavad</i> if you're talking to a Hindu, <I>shukria</I> if you're talking to a Muslim, but almost everyone understands "thank you"). Then when they smile to say "you're welcome" you take one or two more quick photos since your focus and lighting is already all set up. That way, you capture the real person. <br>

Have a great trip!<br>

Here's a link to some of my photos of India:<br>

<a href="http://www.shantishop.com/photos_of_india.html">Shanti Shop - yoga mat bags and wallpaper photos of india</a><br>

Warren