Newbie Leica user... a couple of questions

[jasonvicinanza]

Im new to Leica and am a proud owner of a M6TTL and 50mm Summicron.

 

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I have a couple of questions that you guys should be able to help me with.

 

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(1) Im used to compact auto focus jobs (Im sorry to say). I guess its just practice but how does one manage to focus, set aperture and shoot all within a microsecond? Im interested in candid photography and by its very nature many situations require a split second response. Any answer top this any other tips on speedy usage of the Leica camera would be very helpful indeed! For example is that a �default� configuration that I should set the camera to which should be able to deal with most candid situations or at least be a �best� starting point?

(2) Why is the 50mm Summicron considered �normal�? I purchased one as it was recommended as good all rounder and a good lens to learn to use with Leica equipment.

(3) Straps. Its interesting ive read a few discussions about wrist vs neck straps, how to connect them to the camera etc etc. There�s a whole chapter on my Leica handbook (Eastman) on how to connect the strap. What do you guys prefer? I like the sound of a neck strap as it reduces the chances of dropping the camera but I also think a wrist strap sounds useful as the camera is already in the hand and ready for action.

 

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Sorry if these are really dumb questions but hey, we all have to start somewhere! Well that�s about it, hope you can help me out

 

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Cheers

 

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Jason

London, England

[john_chan2]

Welcome to the wonderful world of surrendipity!!!!

 

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Just a few tips from my limited experience doing candids:

 

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(1) Choose a medium aperture and reasonably fast shutter speed to

exploit hyperfocal distance (I like 5.6 at 1/125) and know that you

don't necessarily have to be dead-on focused on the subject to get

reasonable results.

(2) Stake out an area (turf) and scan with your rangefinder while

making it look random (like you aren't really interested in your

subject but everything in general).

(3) Learn to raise the camera to face level, compose, then shoot with 1

hand (need fast shutter speed)

(4) Put black tape over the red decal and the white logos to make your

Leica look like a toy or a piece of junk camera.... less intimidating.

(5) Don't dress like a photographer and if you carry a bag then might I

suggest a Domke with the decals removed so you blend in better with the

locals.

(6) Set and forget your aperture and shutter speed. Normally for ISO

100 film 5.6/125 combination is good from 10 am to 3 pm on a clear day

and you can always intensify if underexposed (at least with B&W)

(7) Up to you but I always wear my M6 under my arm with the standard

strap where it just dangles above waist level and on my right side. It

is usually concealed under a coat or jacket.

(8) The 50 mm is a good starting point but I usually use my 35 mm as it

is more compact and the hyperfocal distance is greater per given f

stop. Always use the hood... for protection and to eliminate the

inconvenience of a cap.

(9) Don't be afraid to shoot lots of film. Don't expect to get alot of

great shots if you only shoot 1 roll of 36 exp on an outing. Practice

makes perfect so be patient.

(10) Hang out with a group if you can... it is my experience that

people will be reluctant to confront you AFTER they have noticed you

snapping their pics IF you are with a group. Just the social

psychology factor.

(11) You don't need consent from individuals if they are snapped in a

public place BUT you may wish to solicit consent from VERY interesting

subjects.... ie an old lady sitting on a bench.... a prostitute

standing at a street corner...

(12) Practice getting comfortable snapping people by documenting street

performers... they really don't mind if they are true showmen and a

little patronage on your part removes any feeling that you are taking

advantage of them.

 

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These are just a few hints:

 

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Good luck in your pursuit to be the next HCB!!!!

[paul_chefurka]

The main key key to speed with a Leica M is practice. Lots and lots

of it. Then more of it. And a bit more. That said, there are a few

tips.

 

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1. Try to keep the aperture and shutter speed up to date between

shots - i.e. meter when you're not shooting, rather than when you

are. Then don't bother metering when you bring the camera up to your

eye for a shot - just tweak the exposure for back or side-light

without using the meter, and shoot.

 

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2. Use lenses with focussing tabs if possible. If you don't have

one on your current 50, keep this in mind for future purchases.

They're on all the wide angle lenses, and on the second-last version

of the 50. They make focussing much faster.

 

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3. Between shots, reset your focus to infinity. That way you always

know which way to turn the ring when starting to focus.

 

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4. Learn to preset your focus by feel. This only works if you have

a lens with a focus tab, and works as follows. Learn to feel where

the tab falls on the bottom of the lens at a given distance (try 6

feet and 10 feet to start with). Learn to estimate the distance to

the subject by eye, preset the focus by feel, then just tweak the

focus a bit if you have to. Practice around the house without taking

pictures, just focussing on different objects.

 

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5. With wide angles use hyperfocal settings if you can. You will

need to consciously stop yourself from refocussing, but once you do

it will really speed up your shooting.

 

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I use the standard Leica neck strap. If I want a wrist strap I just

wrap the neckstrap around my right hand. Some people dispense with

straps altogether, and just hold the camera all the time. This would

be a little easier if you use a handgrip. I'm a stone crazy devotee

of the Leica-M Grip (I even like it way better than Tom Abrahamsson's

custom-designed metal RapidGrip). I have one on each camera, and I

much prefer the ergonomics with the grip. Others disagree :-)

 

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50mm lenses have been considered "normal" for a long time now. They

produce photos with "natural-looking" perspective at normal

enlargement sizes. The 50mm Summicron is the standard recommendation

for a first Leica M lens, not least because it's the lightest,

cheapest and one of the sharpest lenses made for the M. Because the

perspective is just so gosh-darned normal, you can forget about

gimmicky photographic effects, and get on with looking at and

recording the world around you, which is one of the things Leicas are

best at (IMNSHO).

 

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Have fun - you're in for a wonderful photographic experience.

[mark_wrathall1]

Whoever advised you to get the Summicron 50 gave you some outstanding

advice. I once read the "too standard - too boring" advice and

believed it, but after using the 50 summicron on my M2 for the last 4

years, I would never change it. I really started to appreciate just

what a jem the summicron is when I bought my EOS wide and Portait

tele. The are good, but the Summicron is special.

 

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A Leica takes constant practice. You just paid a ton of money for the

camera, if you don't put a ton of film through it, take it everwhere,

and shoot everything with it, you will never truly appreciate what

you have.

 

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You have had good advice on how to use it quickly. My addition would

be for shooting closer portraits (1-2m) focus once, and then just

rock back and forward to keep the split image of the eyes whole. This

is , for me, far more intuitive than trying to keep the EOS AF stuff

focused during a portrait.

[albert_smith]

Hello Jason. I spend much time in your city and have thousands of

slides from London shot with Leicas. As to your quest for knowledge:

 

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First, I like the full neck strap. It can be wrapped around the

wrist, but the wrist strap can't be put around the neck. I usually

handhold the camera, (strap around the wrist), while actually

shooting... But when I change film on the run, I put the strap around

my neck. There are too many things to juggle, old film, new film,

bottom plate and camera. Of those thing, the one thing you don't

want to drop is the camera.

 

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Don't be intimidated by a manual camera. Exposure can remain fairly

constant in good light. If I set my camera to f/8.0 and 1/500th of a

second for ISO 100 slide film, as long as I stay in constant

lighting, that exposure will work for hours. I might choose to go to

a wider or more closed down aperture for the subject, but the

shutterspeed can be set to compensate... all without even raising the

camera to the eye. If you are interested in learning... try to shoot

a couple of rolls of film with no meter using the "Sunny 16" rule.

You can find this information in any good technique book, or inside

the film box. In certain tricky lighting, I will ignore the meter in

the M6 and use the Sunny 16 exposure. Be aware, f/16 at 1/125th, f/8

at 1/500th and f/5.6 at 1/1000th are all the same exposure... you are

not locked into f/16 just because the "rule" has that in the title.

Having this knowledge will save the day when your battery dies

unexpectantly during an important shoot. This is one of the key

benefits over the electronic cameras which are rendered totally

inoperative without power... you can still get an image on film.

 

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The type of film you use will enable you to pretty much assure

results. Print film, (assuming a good lab), will allow you to get

back usable pictures even if you were way off in your exposure.

Conversely, good technique can be ruined by a cheap lab. If the

results are not to your liking, check the negatives first... the

actual print is an additional step out of your control other than not

returning to the substandard lab. Slide film is the ultimate proof

that your technique is sound... there is little room for error. When

you can get a high percentage of slide film exposures correct, you

can feel pretty good about your technique.

 

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Learn to use those depth of field marks on your lens. This important

feature has been all but eliminated on Auto focus zoom lenses, but if

you can use these marks (it isn't that hard!), you can be FASTER than

autofocus. In a short time of living with your 50mm lens, you will

be able to see frames around subjects all of the time. Soon you will

walk right up to the spot you need to be in for that lens. When it

comes to the famous "Leica speed"... it comes from being totally

immersed in the process and working with a minimum of gear. The

exposure and focus are set pretty close before you see the subject...

your eye sees a frame around a potential image... you walk up a

shoot. Of course this only comes from shooting a lot of film and

making mistakes. Soon the mistakes will happen less often, and you

will have a confidence level, (from the knowledge), that just lets

you get on with the process.

 

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Good luck and welcome to the club.

[albert_smith]

Jason,

 

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One other thing. When doing candid shooting, it helps when you don't

stand out in a crowd. In your situation, you have a great

opportunity to practice without feeling too self conscious, since you

live in a major tourist destination. You could go down to Trafalgar

Square and practice for hours, never having to fear the wrath of

paranoid people wondering why you are hanging around with a camera.

There are some locations that you are automatically suspect in when

shooting, but you have a great training ground there in London. Some

of my best candid shots in London are from that Square... thousands

of ever changing faces all in there own world there for the picking.

If you can't get good shots there, you are not ready to move on.

Call it your "graduate course" in candid shooting.

[david_kelly8]

Cartier-Bresson, a very fast street shooter, used zone focusing.

when someone noticed that he had marked 4 meters on his lens with red

nail polish he said "Yes, that's my life: keeping a certain distance

from things." He also marked 125th on his shutter speed dial, [he

shot mostly Ilford ISO 100 film] adjusting only the aperture as the

light changed. When he had an M3 he taped over the rangefinder window,

presumably to get rid of that annoying little rectangle in the middle

of the image!

All of this made it possible to keep his camera, hanging from its

strap, down on his chest, with his hands folded over it, until he saw

the shot. Then up it would come, but only for a second, and it would

be down and concealed again before his subject notice being

photographed -and this was crucial to him, because he needed to go on

shooting unnoticed as a situation developed towards, you guessed it,

that decisive moment. No autofocuing camera is nearly fast enough for

that kind of work.

He also frequently used, even on his M-cameras, an obsolete 1930s

accessory finder called a VIDOM that renders the image backwards and

upside down, so as to see the composition in abstract terms. Not many

of us would care for that, but the point is that he subordinated

everything to seeing -sharpness and correct exposure were n

[david_kelly8]

i was going to say, before the Phillip the MIT Genius Greenspun bug

ate the end of my sentence "were not his priorities"..........

[roberto_watson_garcia]

Jason; let me give you a wellcome to M photography, I suposs you´re

already a photographer, so the only thing you´re changing is your

camera; they say a Leica M is for all tasks specialy for dificult

ones, for me a M is the perfect camera to walk and photograph people

while you´re among them, is a fast camera if you master it; the

secret is to anticipate, with an auto SLR you just rise the camera

and spect it does everything, when you know what you´re doing that

becomes very unpersonal; with a M you set the exposure by your own

considerations; pre-focus and rise,frame and shoot.

 

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In the act of rise,frame and shooting is hiden all the beauty and

delait of using a LeicaM; to get to that you just have to practice;

what I do once in a wile is to pick up my ligth meter and measure

diferent ligths specialy those in wich I work most, measure the sun

at diferent times and shadows at diferent deeps, also the interior

ligthing like supermarkets or offices or home, so I don´t use my

meter wile shooting, although I always carry it (well most of the

time), just to feel safe.

 

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Well after you can handel with ligth; that probably you already do;

then you have to master the focusing act, you can prefocus by looking

at you lens setings, or use hiperfocus (specialy with wideangles and

small apertures),or focus direct to your subject,this last one can be

the most precise but also the most delayed when fast shooting is

required.So as you can see the secret is playing with the toy.

 

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50 summicron is a gret lens specialy wide open you´ll see.

 

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The leica M is specialy useful with wide angles; I personaly recomend

the last 35/2 (summicron too), the one before the aspheric, is a tiny

little lens that does marvels in <64°.

 

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Well Jason wish you the best,

 

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I bougth my first M3 in 1986, I don´t use any SLR anymore and I hate

changing lenses, and I like working with three lenses (28/35/50), now

I own four bodies and several lenses and I´m very happy with

results.And I had to sell my Renault.

[john_chan2]

Good point there,

 

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I also have a combo incident/ spot meter from Sekonic that I use on my

quests too. I find it handy to at least have an incident light meter

on me at all times so that I may have a relative guide for balanced

exposure. Jason, you should really read up on Ansel Adam's zone

system for determination of exposure values and how different gray

tones translate to his zone system. If you are shooting black and

white then when you have a basic grasp of the system this will save you

beaucoups time when you have to set exposure. Get an old Gossen Luna-

Pro meter too if you can afford it. Metering from a handheld is much

more inconspicuous than metering from your camera.

 

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All IMHO.

[matt_veld]

Jason, you have received a ton of great advice. The only thing I can

think to add is don't worry about scuffing or scratching your camera.

I know that it cost a small fortune and it really does hurt when you

get that first scratch or nick on a new camera, but just try to

forget about it and use it. I'm not advocating abusing your camera

for that would be stupid. I mean just use it without freaking out

about damaging it and then you will be really able to become one with

your Leica.

 

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Al is right Trafalgar Square in London is a great place for people

photography.

[Rob F.]

Jason, I might further emphasize the point that was made about

prefocusing. You see someone interesting approaching. You focus on

a lamp-post or something they are going to walk by. As they get even

with the prefocused point, you shoot.

 

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Regards,

[don_maldon]

Careful, Leica is addicting. I now have 2 bodies 0.85 and 0.58 with 35/

50/90. Wonderful equipment and a joy to use. Anyone wish to buy Nikon

F100? Congratulations!

[jim_shields]

Jason,

I think you should learn to do your own developing and printing.

I'd be surprised if all the people above just send their film to the

drug store for processing. You won't know what your equipment can do

until you can see your prints on something like A4, or 8x10.

Jim

[martin_davidson1]

All the above is good advice. To which I would add only the following.

 

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You can practice manipulating speed dial, aperture ring, focus ring,

and film advance with four separate fingers (easier with a tab on the

lens); just try it!

 

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Secondly, it is a very small distance from infinity on your lens, to

10 feet, 6 feet and 3 feet -- FAR less, than the distance the other

way. So set your lens to infinity, and choose a number of objects

these distances away from you; now turn the focus a quick clockwise

dab, and see, you're pretty close to 10 feet; a slightly longer dab

of the fingers, and you're close to 6.

 

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Keep practising this, and with time, you'll be hitting those focal

distances just by fingers alone!

[jason_vicinanza1]

Guys,

 

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Just wanted to thank you lot for the excellent advice and responses

to my newbie questions. Honestly I am REALLY impressed with the

professionalism and willingness of you LEICA users to respond

helpfully and respectfully to us new to the LEICA equipment and

methods. I mean you could have just blasted me for asking such basic

questions.

Im so impressed that you spent the time and effort to respond to me

and I have learnt some really good advice from each and every

response.

I can�t wait to start using my M6 in anger real soon, in fact im off

to San Francisco on Wednesday (for work) so hopefully ill get some

time to wonder the streets and get some interesting shots. When I get

back next week ill start on a London based project.

Furthermore one of the TV stations in the UK (www.Channel4.com) is

running a nationwide photography competition so im going use that as

inspiration for additional practice and projects.

Once again thanks a lot, good luck with your Leica endeavors and I

promise not to ask too many questions in the future.

 

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Cheerio!

 

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Jason

London, England

[howard_b]

Just adding best wishes with the new camera.

 

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And enormous personal pleasure, to be a part of community so

gracious, helpful, and generous.

 

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There are not many places on the web, perhaps even on the

planet, where friendly, open communication occurs-- and so

frequently!

 

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(Good luck with the camera! And remember, the more you shoot,

the more you learn!!)

[msitaraman]

Jason:

 

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Good luck with your new camera ! All of the above is very good

advice.

 

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Just my observation about your question 3): I use the regular Leica

strap, and after a few months of experimentation, settled down to

wearing the camera and strap like a bandolier or cartridge belt-over

one shoulder/side of neck, diagonally down the chest and around the

other waist/side. The camera stays snugly over my lower torso to the

side, tilted downward.

 

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This prevents it from banging around when I walk but is instantly

lifted to the eye. Also, this way, the strap is snug and provides

support to the camera if needed.

 

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In winter, the camera is inconspicuous because it is under my

(unzipped) coat/parka front.

[david_killick]

Some excellent advice here. Just a couple of points which may be

helpful.

 

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All Leica rangefinders have a kind of built-in focus guide. If the

ghost image appears on the left of what you have focussed on, turn the

focussing ring right. If it appears on the right, turn the focussing

ring left. Try it and see. After a while, rangefinder focussing is

extremely quick.

 

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I agree the 50mm lens, which gives normal perspective, makes for very

natural looking pictures, especially of people. An advantage of a

wider lens such asthe 35mm however is its greater depth of field. You

won't need to focus as much.

 

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Have fun on your t