Best rugged and accurate analog lightmeter: Gossen Lunasix 3S or Euro- MASTER 11?

[j. f.]

Which of these two analog lightmeters would you recommend, Gossen Lunasix 3S or Euro-

MASTER 11? Or would I be better off aiming for a small digital lightmeter, eg the Sekonic

FLASHMATE L-308S? I need the meter to be tough and accurate, quick to use for B/W

portraits, street photography, landscapes in ambient light. I kind of like the display of the

analog v digital meters, but what do people with experience of both interfaces think?

The Gossen Lunasix 3S can measure in very low light (-4/+17) for night and interiors, has

a 7.5 degree spot attachment, and uses a battery.

 

The Euro-MASTER 11, the latest version of Weston exposure meters, does not need a

battery and seems more rugged in build but does not have such an impressive light range

(+3/+17). http://www.megatron.co.uk/

 

Thanks! Gavin.

[h._p.]

I use both a Weston and a Profisix (the Gossen that takes a conveniently easy to find 9 Volt battery). The Weston is a *lot* smaller but the Profisix is far more usable for low light. If I were starting from scratch, I'd buy neither of them but get a decent digital meter, some of which are as small as the Weston and damned near as sensitive as the Gossen.

[jtk]

Digisix

[monkey]

<i>Or would I be better off aiming for a small digital lightmeter, eg the Sekonic FLASHMATE L-308S?</i><p><b>Yes.</b>

[Troll]

The Weston Euromaster doesn't seem to be nearly as bulletproof as the earlier II, III, and IV. I actually like my Leicameter MR4. Or if you can afford it, get a Pentax Digital Spotmeter.

[ben z]

I tried out a Weston V, which is quite similar to the Euro-II. The one I tried was a couple stops off and would've needed an overhaul, so I didn't buy it. Generally these selenium meters are much less sensitive at low levels, and read a very wide acceptance angle (in reflected mode). Their often cited advantage of being battery independent doesn't really seem like much of an issue to me, as my L308 takes a single AA which is pretty easy to find anywhere, and they last almost forever anyway. The 308 is very sensitive, lighting quick, small and light, and the display is very large and legible, unlike the Weston.

[colin_elliott]

I use my Weston Euromaster for everything from 1/8th @ f2. to 1/1000th @ f16.

 

I've never encountered any "available light" problems, but seldom shoot below a 1/30th @ f2

[Jochen_S]

I'm another Gossen lover. I own my Lunasix 3 for sentimental reasons and prefer the Profisix at the moment. It's just a bit better, faster and uses a supermarket battery while the Lunasix condemns me to buy blackmarket mercury cells. My Variosix is a bit too modern for my taste but I needed some flash meter.

 

I never had a Weston but in general I doubt a selenium meter or in fact any anlougue precission whatever (Volt, ...) meter to cope with bad vibrations impacts and similar. The survival trick of the battery eating Gossens seem to lock the hand during transport. - Does the Weston do this too? If not I wouldn't use it for motorbike travel.

[wdavidprice]

Jochen...where to you get the blackmarket batteries? Please contact me at ywdprice at yahoo dot com.

[gary_watson]

Unless you're wedded to making a retro fashion statement, get the little Sekonic 308B. Analogue displays are tiresome: teensy #s and guesstimates re: needle location. The Sekonic's display is large and legible. It also does flash and reflective metering. Fast handling, too, thanks to smart design. Arguably one of the better values in photo gear today.

[jim_mcbride]

The best (by far) light meter I own is a Weston Ranger 9 spotmeter but I can not use it any

more because it only uses mercury batteries which I can no longer obtain. Anyone have

any ideas about a source for these batteries which can no longer be purchased in the U.S.?

[george_b1]

Another vote for the Sekonic 308S. I've tried many a light meter, beginning with a selinium GE in the late 30s, including the Weston Master V and the CalcuLite. The 308S is about all you'll need. Incident, reflective, flash, small, highly repeatable, uses one common alkaline AA battery, fits in your shirt pocket, and gives a definitive readout to .1 of a stop.

[j. f.]

Thanks for all the answers! Couldn't decide so collected them all in the end, 2 secondhand

and still going strong. The Gossen Lunasix 3S is very well made (not totally necessary but I

advise this 3S model because it has a red needle which is easier to see and a very useful

exposure offset function, to use when using filters/bellows entension/matching meters

etc). I find that you have to press the button for a few seconds until the needle stops

moving to get accurate reading and the needle does sometimes jump when you try to lock

it, so read the needle before you lock. I'm now trying to find a measurement probe

attachment to take reads from 4/5 camera groundglass...that's why I got the meter

afterall. Just to pass on a good find...the manual for this Gossen, which you can download

from their website, is very well written, and explains the whole approach/technique of

light metering...well worth a read, even if you don't have this meter! This meter seems to

be the same as the Lunapro S (sold in US). Another gossen anolog meter, the Lunapro F, is

said to be even quicker to use, and can measure coordless flash, it has a different needle

display/concept...so instead of reading EV numbers and then transfering to a dial as on

the Lunarpro S/Lunasix 3S you just turn a dial to NULL the needle to a Zero setting, and

then read off your different exposures. The Euro-master 11 is also very accurate,

especially in mid low to bright light, but I find it underexposes a bit in dim light (by a

consistant amount so you can easily adjust) but it is small and very well made, a nice

design, and no battery, amazing really. The incident dome is not permanently attached

though, and does rattle a bit when mounted, but it does the job very well. I like this meter

very much, and would trust it. The one I will use professionally though because of size,

speed of use is the Sekonic FLASHMATE L-308S, even if it feels really plastic...there is no

question, digital is faster to use, so long as you know beforehand what shutter speed you

plan to shoot at...which you usually do. Hope all this helps those who were wondering

about these meters, and thanks for all the comments. Gavin.

[larry_miller5]

My two favorites are the EuroMaster and the EuroMaster II. Followed by using a Calcu-Light.