john_murphy1 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I used to shoot a lot of black and white stuff with a Mamiya TLR. Gradually, I found myself shooting either large format transparencies or small format digital, so I sold the MF gear.</p>Now I am having the urge to shoot MF B&W again (LF sheet film is too difficult to develop; B&W digital just isn't the same.)</p>So what's a good set-up? The Mamiya C330 with the 180mm lens is certainly cheap enough, is there any advantage to a more expensive set-up? I figure a better lens would translate in to better photos. Certainly this was the case with the Mamiya TLR. I had both versions of the 180, the 135, and the 250, and the 'super' 180 clearly had more "sparkle" than the others.</p>Keep in mind that I intend to use this only for studio work, so I don't need metering capabilities, and portability is not an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trw Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I use a C220. The advantage to switching to an SLR would be being able to use changeable backs. So you could load up a bunch of backs before you go into the studio and just swap backs when you run out of exposures. This would save a lot of time in the studio (with models complaining/food melting, etc), if film loading is as fiddley with the C330 as it is with the C220. You may not be able to focus as close as with the C330 (unless you get a bellows SLR), but at least there's no paralax error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes_baker1 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 If you're shooting B&W, you might eventually want to work with the zone system to adjust contrast. In that case, something with interchangeable film magazines might be more convenient. That way, you can have one magazine for +1 development, one for -1, etc. If you like the square format, that might make Hasselblads attractive. And older models are going for very little now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trw Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Oh yes, and with an SLR you can use depth of field preview. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_murphy1 Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 I don't need to change backs. If I need to adjust contrast I can shoot in LF, but again, developing sheet film is a headache.</p> My query really is to the lens quality of the various systems. If, for instance, a Pentax 6x7 can produce comparable results to the Hasselblad?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 I think the 180mm Super is pretty close to a Zeiss lens for the Hasselblad. Not to start a war, but it is my opinion only, that you would get that much more "sparkle" from the 180mm Zeiss, that you got from the non-super to the super. And, the quality difference between a great Mamiya lens like the 180mm super and a Zeiss is not so much measurable in sharpness or contrast, but is just "different". I'd say, rent a Hasselblad with the 180mm Zeiss and see for yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_murphy1 Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 Nadine,</p> That's a good idea. Why didn't I think of that? After all, I'm in New York... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglas_green1 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 As far as I'm concerned, if you know that this is strictly for a studio, I would certainly get something in the Mamiya RB67 family, probably the best value on the used market is the RB67 Pro S. You can get a fully working body with WL finder and 120 back for around $300 from reliable sellers. Any of the 90mm or 127mm or 180mm C-version lenses can be gotten without too much difficulty for under $200 in good working condition. Personally, I own the 90mm and the 180mm lenses and both are excellent values on the used market now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglas_green1 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 IMHO, optically, Pentax and Mamiya are comparable to Hassy and Rollei in quality, but FAR better values. But I wouldn't recommend a Pentax 67 as a studio camera - It's really a field camera, because of the shutter mechanism. The Mamiya RB67 is much better in the studio, whereas the Pentax is much better using available light outdoors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_murphy1 Posted January 26, 2006 Author Share Posted January 26, 2006 In the 6x7 format, what would be the focal length for headshots? On the 6x6, 180mm was ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglas_green1 Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 In 6x7, depending on your preference, it would either be 180mm or 250mm. Personally, I prefer 180mm, but I also preferred 150mm in 6x6 for headshot portraits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 If you have a studio, the huge and not-so-common <b><a href="http://www.mcp.com.au/fuji/gx680.htm" target="_new">Fuji GX680 III</a></b> SLR is also a nice option. Big 6x8 negatives, front standard movements and a revolving back just like the Mamiya R*67 cameras. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 The Mamiya C330 gets my vote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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