Best 120 slidefilm for travel and all around situations?

[alexander_krasotkin]

Colleagues,

 

I am wondering what slidefilm will be the best for travelling (Asia:

Nepal, Tibet, China) especially as the exposure latitude is

concerned. My equipment is Contax 645 with a few lenses and 2 backs.

My scanner is Nikon Coolscan 8000ED.

 

From my personal experience, I have found out that Kodak Ektachrome

E200 is the one that is not so bad.

 

I know that exposure latitude for slidefilm is very narrow to

compare with negative, but would like to hear your suggestions?

 

Thank you very much in advance,

Alexander

[ivan_dzo]

The three fuji lines, astiaf proviaf and velviaf or velvia 100, all have the same contrast but different dyes to give different levels of saturation. If you are travelling to bright colourful places then I'd go for Astiaf for realistic colour, wonderful skintones and managable contrast levels. But pack a CP and NG filters.

[r.t. dowling]

E200 is generally the winner when it comes to exposure latitude, but E100G, E100GX, and Astia 100F are good as well. The 100 films are definitely sharper and finer grained. I would stick with those unless you really need the extra speed of E200.

 

E100G and E200 (exposed at 320 and pushed +1) would be a good combo.

[discpad]

Since you are scanning, I would recommend Fuji Astia and then bump up the saturation in Photoshop. For low light, I'd agree with E200 at E.I. 320 and push 1.

 

Don't forget to take along a couple rolls of EPJ (tungsten balanced 320T) for indoors, if you don't have a flash...

[david_henderson]

To a large extent you're trading off saturation/contrast against latitude. Whilst the easiest to use might well be Astia I must admit I find it a seriously dull film that I'd only use if skin tones were my absolute priority. Putting it right in Photoshop would not for me overcome the disappointment I feel when I first look at Astia slides. If you're confident in your exposure technique, carry a polariser and a nd grad or two, there's no reason why you shouldn't use Provia 100 and Velvia 100 as your main films with Provia 400 in your bag for when things are gloomy.I'd use Velvia rather than Provia if the weather's dull, or in shade, or when the sun is high. But for sunsets, dawns I'd use Provia as it exaggerrates those colours less.

[philippartridge]

Alexander, I assume you will shoot a variety of subjects, the *big* landscapes this region is so famous for, plus architecture and the wonderful people, their bright dress and perhaps festivals if you are in luck.

 

I did a trip to Zanskar in 2005 and intend to go to Tibet and western China mid-year. I shoot 645 and 690 - and what worked best for me was Velvia 50, provided the contrast was not too great in the image - I put it that way as no film (including neg) can capture the SBR of the region in bright sun, and some highlight loss is evocative, even desirable in some images. Reala is contrasty in shadows, but I have high hopes for NC160 though, as it has a monster latitude ;-)

 

I used a lot of Astia 100f in bright light and I agree with David - in low light it is just drab and in bright light it exhibits an insipid, washed out flatness (all with very fine detail rendition!). At the risk of offending some readers, it is the most digital-like film in that respect. Nor is it an easy or quick matter to use PS to increase saturation while retaining an authentic palette across all colours. Astia *is* the finest grain film but it is perhaps best used for general photography.

 

Fine grain is important, but all the pro E6 lines are fine unless you enlarge past 8x, IMO (so 18 x 14 from 645) - standards vary of course, and a bigger print, with those excellent Zeiss lenses, will hold on well with a good print process.

 

BTW there is a reason almost all the better E6 films are ISO 100...if you like E200 you are in for a treat with E100G, Velvia and Provia. I will likely take E100G in place of Astia next time for bright scenes, since it gives a clean, clear look with a realistic gamut, with good brightness range handling and scans really well.

 

I shot a lot of neg film indoors (long exposures in puja rooms and gompas generally) and like the results very much. I used Reala and NPH, but will soon test NC160, Pro 160S and UC100. I find Reala scans fine (on a Minolta MultiPRO) as do all the trans films. My suggestion: take a slow and a fast neg film, and a low light and a bright light transparency film, and whatever size/level of tripod you are prepared to haul, and a good cable release; and a polariser filter to tame the highlights some; this worked for me *very* well. B&H still have Velvia 50 in 120 (and 220!) when I ordered my last ever batch yesterday ;-( Have a great time!

[alexander_krasotkin]

Dear coleagues, thank you very much for your support and detailed suggestions.

 

I wonder why Kodak E200 at 320 is push+1? My experince was setting it at 400 ICO and developed push +1. Here is an example: http://www.krasotkin.com/portfolio/?photo=153&lang=2

 

I will stick to Kodak E100G & 200 combo, Velvia 50 (I wonder why no one mentioned about Kodak 100VS?)and perhaps some rolls of Provia 400F.

 

Thank you very much again!

regards,

Alexander

[pat_cahir]

simply beautiful photographs, even better in 120mm. I must go to Russia!