dglickstein Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 After lots of reading, lots of advice from this website and renting a Hasselblad H1 and taking 5 test rolls of 120 Velvia slides -- I'm purchasing an H2 with several lens and film back and hopefully within a year or so moving to a digital back. My simple questions: 1. The 5 rolls I had developed came uncut and protected by a clear flat plastic strip. What is the best way to get 120/220 developed - Cut? In rolls and uncut? I will be scanning my good frames in a Nikon Coolscan 9000 and I am very bad at cutting straight lines. 2. In 35mm I shot 100VS or some Velvia -- in MF with slower lenses, if I use Provia 400 will I notice the grain? How about when enlarged? 3. For developing, what do you recommend for 120 or 220--mailers (if so which), local lab (I work in NYC)? From what I understand my choices are increasingly limited. 4. Current digital backs have a crop factor--is it just a matter of time until they have a full frame digital back for MF? Thanks in advance. dG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_w. Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Usually MF slides are returned uncut in a long plastic sleeve. You can cut them yourself into strips of 3 or 4 depending on what kind of neg sleeves you use. As for 120 vs. 220, it's up to you, but 220 films are becoming more and more scarce... When I visited NYC a while back I had my film developed at Flatiron Lab, which IIRC is near Adorama, on 18th Street or something. They were very inexpensive for pre-paid processing. As for 400-speed slide film, the only way to see if the grain is excessive for your tastes is to try it. Have fun with your camera, and remember that the best results with MF are obtained when the camera's on a sturdy tripod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 1. Cut.<br> 2. Unlikely. But continue to shoot 100-speed film if it gives you peace of mind.<br> 3. Local pro lab -- fastest and best service.<br> 4. Highly unlikely. Not in the foreseeable future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelp Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 1. I ask my lab to develop the film and then cut 6x6 by 3 frames and 6x7 by 2 frames, because that's what I can scan in a single scanner run. When it they cut, the film lies flat and is scannable when I get it back. If they forget and give me pack the whole strip, I have to cut it mysef and let lie flat for two or three days before it can go into a scanner without excessive curling. 2. 400ISO films have pretty much no grain in MF sizes. On the other hand, the lenses are only slower if you shoot wide open. If you stop down to f/8 in 35mm it's the same as f/8 in MF. I shoot 100/160ISO in MF on regular basis. 3. It's better to use a local lab and develop a working relationship with them. The only problem is that some labs charge arm-and-leg-and-kidney for E-6 process. One more reason to use negative films. 4. I do not know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarashnat Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Derek, I use L&I on 17th St just west of 5th Ave. There are quite a few labs in NYC that will still do 120/220. But whichever lab you choose, you could instruct them on how you want the film cut. I like to cut my film myself, as I often shoot astrophotos, and do not want to risk a multi-hour exposure to an errant cut. Cutting is not that difficult with a normal sizes pair of scissors. Just line up one edge along the middle of the inter-frame area and then cut. Or you can use a cutting board. A light box is very helpful. I have been shooting quite a bit of Provia 400. I do not notice the grain, but then I don't make big prints or project, yet. I would not hold my breath for an affordable MF full-frame back. Taras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilkka_nissila Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I don't think you really want to use Provia 400 as a mainstream film. You get more choices in colours if you use ISO 100 film. Provia 400 is kind of muted and not in any way the best you can get (for tripod work that is). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaius1 Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 <blockquote>If you stop down to f/8 in 35mm it's the same as f/8 in MF</blockquote>Not really true in terms of depth of field. To get the same DOF in 120 as in 135 will cost you 2-stops. There's a price to be paid for the extra quality of MF! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelp Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 UR right Guy. I did not take the DOF into account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dglickstein Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 Understand--and thank you very much! Nearly all of my 35mm shots are on the tripod and it's going to be the same for MF. Wind is the biggest problem for me with slower speeds. Another question: Have any of you had a lab cut the transparency in the wrong spot or mid frame? Or is it an automated process? (I can't think of any of my 35mm slides having been cut in the wrong spot.) Thanks again. dG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelp Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Slide cutting is usually done by hand, often using a blade running on a rail (to provide a straight cut). I never had a slide cut in the middle by the lab (I reserve the function to myself). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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