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FE-lock button - the best feature of the EOS-1 series?


kelvin_lau1

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The feature that finally convinced me some years of go of "making the

switch" to a Canon SLR system was not the fast AF speed, not the

advanced lens system, not the class-leading digital imaging

technology.....but rather that tiny little button to the left of the

shutter release labelled 'FE LOCK'.

 

First pioneered in the T90 camera, the FE lock button appears to be

unique amongst the EOS-1 class camera bodies. When combined with the

spot metering pattern it allows precise spot measurements which are

locked into the camera prior to taking the shot. When pressed several

times it will average several sport meter readings.

 

Personally I find the best part of this button is being able to lock

in a single spot measurement and then 'place the zone' (a la Ansel

Adams) using the rear command dial to adjust exposure compensation. I

can rapidly place someone's face into Zone VI or VII with one button

press followed by a small twiddle of the knob at the back - takes less

than 1 second. Index finger, followed by thumb, followed by taking

the shot.

 

I used to try doing that with any other camera in Spot mode (eg a

Nikon F4 or F90) and would often lose the shot from fiddling with

exposure compensation interlocks or mucking up some confusing

combination button press. A Pentax *istDs I also use has the same

"button cocktail" problem when used in spot mode, and I end up

shooting CW or Evaluative with that camera most of the time as a result.

 

I'm writing this posting to try and remind any EOS-1 users out there

about the FABULOUS FE-LOCK BUTTON and not to forget about it during

your shooting! Say goodbye to blown highlights or muddy shadows!

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"the FE lock button appears to be unique amongst the EOS-1 class camera bodies"

 

Actually the 1998 EOS 3 has both a FE Lock and AE lock button and was the first EOS body

to have that function. The EOS 1 and 1N lacked FE Lock. Incidentally, the dedicated FE Lock

is only used to lock flash exposure. The AE lock button is used for amibient. The lower

end EOS bodies combine both FE and AE lock functions into one button.

Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see.

- Robert Hunter

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I'm glad it works well for you. I never use it. Too awkward. And it will not help if one has

too much contrast in the subject, which is the usual exposure problem (for me, at least). It

might let you save your blown highlights at the expense of making muddier shadows, or vice

versa. But if you have too much contrast for the sensor, one extreme or the other (or maybe

both) can't be adequately exposed in a single image.

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I used to use the FE lock function on my 10D bodies before I

upgraded. Imagine my chagrin when I discoverd that Canon

decided that they couldn't "afford" to allow such a sophisticated

capability on the 20D, and limited it to their most expensive

cameras. I don't think even the 5D has it, while my $ 950 (when

new) EOS-3 does. It would have cost them little to put it in the

20D and 5D, and they'd have earned some real good will from

those of us for whom the big iron still costs more than we can

handle. Stuff like this is just plain greed, and it lessens the

loyalty I have to Canon.

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Puppy Face: Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with all the EOS bodies but was aware that the T90 had the first multi-spot mode for a Canon which is pretty much the same. Now I know the EOS-3 has it as well. I think the Olympus OM-4 also had highlight/shadow spot metering, but the EV difference was hard wired into the camera.

 

NK Guy - good to hear that you can set a custom function on the 10D to do the same. I find the location of the button makes a difference, as well as in combination with the command dial for instant exposure compensation. Lots of other cameras have AE-L buttons too, but using them is harder. How do you find using the feature with Selective metering only (my understanding is the 10D hasn't got spot metering)?

 

Mark - regarding high contrast subjects, I agree - just having a spot meter won't fix the problem, one needs to adapt the lighting or pick either the highlights or shadows to preserve. What I was getting at was it's easier to preserve than just depending on Evaluative or CW metering, and the FE/AE lock feature streamlines the process.

 

Jonathan I noticed that the new 5D hasn't got the FE Lock button next to the shutter button. Hopefully you can custom function some other button, like NK Guy has with his 10D.

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Which EOS 1 series camera are you talking about? My 1v resorts to evaluative metering when the on-camera flash is turned on. It doesn't matter what the metering mode is set to, the camera uses evaluative with flash. Have you had some flash pictures fail and didn't understand why? Maybe your camera was in evaluative when you thought it was in spot mode.
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I think what is being discussed is actually multispot metering which IS only on the EOS3 and

1 bodies (it was introduced in the T90)

 

I find it quite useful as well... spot the highlights, shadows and subject then move the bar

chart on the right as you see fit to accommodate the scene's latitude. For controlled shoots

you can use this to light a scene placing elements in the 'zone' you wish

 

m

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>>. Imagine my chagrin when I discoverd that Canon decided that they couldn't "afford" to allow such a sophisticated capability on the 20D, and limited it to their most expensive cameras. I don't think even the 5D has it<<

 

Yep, Canon engineers, in their own sadistic way, decided that adding a direct print button and doing away with the FEL button was the way to go on the 5D...!

 

When I bought my 5D I was hoping that they had learned the lesson from the 20D, which eliminated the FEL button thereby taking a step backward (IMO) from the 10D which allowed to program a custom FEL button.

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Kelvin:

You called it. The FEL button eight averaging spot. You bet.

I had it on my 1980s Oly OM4 (average of 4) and had to wait 18 YEARS later

to get it on the 1-DII, after bad trips through poor early Nikon auto focus.

I enjoy being able to place the highlights at ~ +1 2/3 to +2, making sure the

mid tone is indeed midtone, and letting the shadows fall where they may.

Seems to be the way to shoot digital with these tools.

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