OT a bit... Cross Processing any other film suggestions

[philip_woodcock]

I recently decided to experiment with cross processing some E-6 film for the first time since I graduated 7 years ago. I was advised to try Agfa RSX II 50 and as I run a lab time wasn't a problem. The result was excellent, well balanced, OVER saturated in a BIG way, and very striking.

 

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Does anybody else cross process and what films do you use?

 

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confession, I took them on my old Mamiya NC1000 as my SL is being serviced.

[jeff_stuart]

Phillip,

 

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Cross processing in what way? 1st developer? What�s the basic process?

 

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I do my own E6 using Tetenal 6-bath and experiment mostly with Fuji

Provia trying, for the most part, to extend the contrast range. I�m

getting good results rating the film at 120 (under exposing) &

processing the 1st dev. the �normal� time (~6:50 in a rotary tank)

and pulling the color dev. about 5%. Saturation is more than adequate

for my tastes, and skin tones in particular are nice & smooth

compared to by-the-book exposure & processing.

 

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I�ve never seen any color shift with Provia & Tetenal between a �1/3

to a +2 push (which involves both 1st & color dev. timing.)

 

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I did see a definite blue cast once when I omitted the reversal and

ran the color dev. only half its normal time. Maybe that should be a

blew cast? But, considering the dumbass treatment, the film performed

admirably.

 

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I�m always interested in E6 info. Please tell me more.

 

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Cheers,

[philip_woodcock]

Sorry to confuse... E-6 film processed in C-41 chemistry

[jeff_stuart]

Please excuse my ignorance, does this produce a negative or

conventional positive?

[philip_woodcock]

It should when done properly produce a high contrast negative. It

usually looks far too much over exposed. Also it has no orange base

color like conventional C-41 films, the base is clear. You see it in

a lot of fashion/pop music shots

[andrew1]

Philip- I use this process a lot. I find that if I shoot, say Provia @

200 or Velvia @ 100 (underexpose by one stop) and run normal

in C-41, I get negs I can print well in either color or black and

white- not havng the orange base helps in B+W printing, gives

good results- plus, you can get those funky, blue/green cast

prints in color- gives great pictures you can print with a lot of

flexibility. The underexposure seems to help me with the

contrast. You can also try shooting at -1 exp. and running film

C-41 @ +1/2 to get back a little of that, and still not be as harsh

as the normal/normal process.

 

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Enjoy!

[andy_piper2]

FWIW I first cross-processed color film in 1974 as a college course

assignment (slide film in color neg chemicals) - it was the only way

at the time to get high speed color negative (Kodak still only made

Kodacolor-X) and infrared color negatives. High-speed Ekatchrome

(normally 160) at ISO 500).

 

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E-6 film in C-41 - effective speed increases 1-2 stops

 

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C-41 film in E-6 (also popular with fashion shooters who want slides)

effective film speed decreases 1-2 stops.

 

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I've also tried running XP-2 in E-6 to get B&W slides. Eeeesh! Not a

hope....

[switchedcraigmageephotogra]

I aint got a Leica but i dow this kind of thing a lot ....<p>

I prefer to use Kodak EPP or EPN. Rate it normally, dev it

normally and print for white skintones and thats what you'll get.

Seriously white skintones, with dope blues and reds. Blue eyes

goe electric blue, and i've had some luck getting trully green eyes

from models also. Epp has some more saturation and contrast

overall, but the reds shift a little orange, but it's easy to correct for.