What R8 focus screen for low light?

[jim_jeblee]

I have the std split/micro screen for my R8. This works ok for stage

events where there is not much movement, but I am having problems on

faster moving events like dance. Has anybody tried a matt screen or

the microprism only screen for this use? Any other hints for fast

moving low light events? My M6 works for the wider shots, I use the

R8 w/ a 180 mostly and I may try a 135. Film is NPZ or Tri-x @ 1250.

Thanks a lot for the help. Jim

[terence_mahoney1]

EOS 1V, 1N. Nikon F6, F5, F100, F90X.

[stuart_richardson]

The best hint is to send the screen to Bill Maxwell at Maxwell Precision Optics. It will come

back brighter, and transmitting more light during low light situations (including being

stopped down). It costs about 60 dollars for the upgrade, and yes, it does make a difference.

I compared it to a stock screen I had, as well as to the effort by Brightscreen, and Maxwell's

was the brightest and easiest to focus with. For low light, I would say that the split screen

and microprism are better than a matte screen, but that is just for my eyes. It may be

different for different people.

[stuart_richardson]

And Terence's comment, while vitriolic, is largely correct. In fast moving low light events,

autofocus will serve you better. That said, sticking with the R8 and MF, your best bet is to

pre-focus on the areas where the action is going to be, and wait for the subject to enter the

plane of focus. Often this is faster than battling the focusing ring. By the way, which 180 do

you have? The newest elmarit has extremely fast and smooth focusing, but of course it is

priced in to the stratosphere. Also, and f/2.8 lens would help with VF brightness if you don't

have one already. The 135 should make it a bit easier too, but obviously you lose some

reach.

[jim_jeblee]

I may try to rent an EOS & 135F2 to try, but I hate to buy for no more than I need it. I have a 180 3.4 Leica & a 180 F2.3 Angenuex (sp?) I use the 180 f2.3 Ang more often because it's faster. Some day I may be able to afford a 180 cron, but useing 800/1600 film I'm not sure I'd see the difference. For now I wish to improve my focus ability & I'll probably try to buy a motor drive. Thanks for the info! Jim

[terence_mahoney1]

Stuart there was no vitriol in my reply. I will never argue that one cannot get pin-sharp images of action with manual focus equipment, I and everyone else past the age of perhaps thirty-five did so. I will also never argue that for quite some time auto-focus was not that effective, nor will I argue the point that one must to a certain extent relinquish a bit of compositional freedom to the nearest AF sensor. What I would argue is patently false and quite absurd, is the notion that one cannot achieve more sharp images of fast-paced action with the latest multi-sensor AF arrangements, since 99.9% of sporting and nature photographers have joyfully embraced AF for more than ten years now and would not dream of going backward. Someone posting a series of sharp images made with manual focus does not negate that fact, as we will never know how many more metres of film went into the rubbish. If it is indeed about "getting the shot" rather than remaining faithful to a particular camera maker, then in this instance without a hint of vitriol I would encourage you to hire that which you mentioned for this job. No need to switch systems permanently if the R8 suits you for all else, it's a fine piece of kit.

[john_jovic]

I've done quite a bit of photography in this situation, usually dance schools who put on a display. I normally use a R 180/2.0 and R8 (and various R lenses and bodies) but have recently used a 1dsMk2 with the R 180/2.0 and Canon 70-200 2.8 and similar. I've also used a 1V with the 70-200/2.8 and it's really very good. Sometimes an outofocus body is great but it really isn't a solution as very often the light levels will be too low for the camera to lock focus. Unless you know that show is continuously very well lit then I think manual focus is actually better for this application.

As for dance, prefocus if you can predict the dancers position.

 

The catch is you're using low shutter speeds so if you do catch a dancer in mid air they may not be sharp due to movement anyway. I try to capture the hight of a step as this is when they are (relatively) still for a fraction of a second.

 

By the way, I have an R4 in which I've fitted the current R focusing screen (designed for R6-7). The screens are interchangeable and all you need to do is buy the new screen and pop it in. The larger magnification of the R4's finder makes it easier to focus than the R8 so I tend to use it for low light work such as you've mentioned. R4's are very cheap, as are new R screens. It's worth a try. JJ<div></div>

[john_jovic]

The whole images from previous post

 

JJ<div></div>

[john_jovic]

Oops, the previous 100% crop was wrong (not taken from the original file). This is the correct one.

 

JJ<div></div>

[stuart_richardson]

Terence -- I am sorry I took your short comment as vitriolic. I figured since you did not do

anything but list cameras that did not address the question, you were being intentionally

smug. I don't think I would have formed that opinion if you just wrote that you thought auto

focus would work better for this application. And I have no argument with your analysis

either. I believe that AF is definitely a better tool for fast action, as the best cameras can lock

focus much more quickly than any human hand and eye combination. Pre-focusing is of

course different, but also a less dynamic solution and often not possible.

[jim_jeblee]

Thanks everyone for the info. I am planning to get a motor drive (in the works I think) and add a 135mm lens to fill out my 90cron & 180s. I may also try to rent an EOS + 135 f2 to see if autofocus would help. I used to have an F4, it was a nice manual focus camera but the autofocus was really bad. I am going to pick up some of the other focus screens to see if that would help also. And I don't really mind burning some additional film for just these few events, if it helps... We will see. Thanks again, Jim.