Nikon MF camera body decision

[bourboncowboy]

I recently posted a queation asking about suggestions for choosing a

Nikon manual-focus body. I recieved numerous suggestions and links

pertaining to my inquiry.

 

Before I reveal my choice, I would like to thank all those who posted

suggestions. I considered each and every one of them - and

researched them all - in order to make a somewhat informed decision.

I spent over 12 hours of research, looking into every possible

variant that might influence my decision. Several people posted

links, and I read every word of them. Thank you all for your input,

as I am a novice when it comes to MF Nikons.

 

With that said, I chose to purchase a Nikon F3. There were/are

various reasons I chose this particular camera.

 

First, I considered what many of you mentioned in response to my

previous post: flash sync speed. Normally, this would be of

particular concern to me. However, I don't plan to rely on a flash

with this camera. If I plan to be in a situation that requires a

flash, I'll use my N90s with my SB-26.

 

Next, I considered the inconvenient flash positioning. As I

previously stated, flash photography is of no real concern to me with

this camera, so this was a moot point with my decision.

 

I also considered price within my decision. I seriously considered

the F3HP, but I couldn't find this particular model in (what I

considered to be) excellent shape for less than $400. The camera I

purchased cost $335...delivery included. I simply couldn't justify

the extra expenditure for the F3HP.

 

Finally, I considered the available cameras. I searched several

different sites for the best deal. I found numerous manual-focus

Nikons on each. However, the shape of these cameras varied from very

good to functional. Since this is my first foray into the MF world,

I wanted a camera in excellent shape. I tend to handle my equipment

with kid gloves, and I wanted a reason to continue this. So, after

hours of searching, I stumbled upon a used F3 on eBay - which I

purchased. I will post photos of this camera.

 

Again, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all those who

took the time to share their advice and suggestions to an unknown

person who genuinely needed it/them. I'm sure I'll soon be asking

similar questions about motor drives, lenses, flashes, and shutter

releases. If the response to these future questions are as honest

and helpful as those offered toward my previous question, I'm sure

I've found the correct "family" of photographic enthusiasts...and I

can justify to myself the reason I became a photo.net subscriber.

 

Thanks again...Mark

[bourboncowboy]

Here's the camera back.

[bourboncowboy]

I didn't post the camera back

[bourboncowboy]

here's the camera top.

[richard_laepple]

Looks great Mark, seems to be a good buy. Have fun!

[bourboncowboy]

Thank you, Richard. I took a look at the finders of all the cameras, and decided that the F3 really did have one of the best. Thanks for the advice.

[rolf_smithy]

If I didn't need flash i would do the same. Also the MD-4 is formidable and the camera and drive together feel great in one's hand.

[todd peach seattle, washi]

FWIW, I have both an F3 and an F3HP, and I prefer the lower eyepoint finder. Not by a huge margin, mind you, but the larger finder image of the 'lesser' finder is an advantage for me (with or without my glasses). Congratulations on your purchase.

[Sanford]

Still a beautiful camera, a true classic.

[photo5]

The nice thing is too, you can always get an HP finder in the future if you think you need one. I wear glasses and love the HP finder, it has great eye relief being able to see the corners of the frame with ease. Parts are plentiful for this camera too, and it's built like a tank. I think it looks cool too. In this age of electronic plastic do-everything-for-you cameras, I really enjoy taking out the F3 and having to think in zones and manually focus again. I really feel more connected to photography this way.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

[david_h._hartman]

LOL: you even got an unblemished JCII Inspected

sticker (Japan Camera Industry Institute). Dont you just

love people who buy cameras and never use them so you can buy

them later at very deep discounts?

[david_h._hartman]

Mark, in 1980 CPI adjusted dollars you paid just $142.00. I

dont remember the going price for the F3 back then but a

years or so earlier I paid $742.00 for my second Nikon F2As. That

price included California sales tax. The price I paid in 2005 CPI

adjusted dollars was $1,989.00.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[guy_p]

As per earlier suggestion, keep your eyes peeled for an HP finder. Also check out the various screens.

 

MD4 motor drives are just about being given away nowadays. If you can find an MF-6B back and MN2/MH2 battery/charger, then you won't know yourself.

 

Some good info here:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/index.htm

[tri-x1]

In our area a camera like the F3 seems to go for less in a commercial store than on Ebay. The stores are only interested in selling digital now. I picked up my F3HP about six months ago in mint condition for $350 at the photo store where it was being sold on consignment. Picked up an MD-4 at auction later. IMHO the last great MF Nikon. I enjoy just holding it (I'm easily entertained).

[douglas_green1]

OTOH, I picked up a fully working, but somewhat brassy F3HP for under $100 on ebay a few months ago - and it had the motor drive coupling cover.

[douglas_green1]

I also got a pretty clean, working Black Nikon FE with some brassing, but nothing major, for around $46 at the same time, along with an Ex cond, MD-12 for another $30. I then turned around and sold the MD-12 on the bay for $75. So, basically, I got a working Nikon FE for the cost of shipping. Upon obtaining this FE, I also sold one of my FG bodies.

 

My point is, that nowadays, perfectly decent user-grade manual focus film cameras are selling for virtually nothing. Given the huge imbalance in demand and supply, stuff that's in really nice cosmetic shape is holding it's value much better than stuff that is cosmetically blemished but working fine.