Beginners guide to backpacking with a DSLR

[justin_fike]

I just purchased a Minolta 5D with a 18 to 70mm and 75 to 300mm

lenses. I will be using this camera primarily for nature

photography on hiking trips with my friends. Before I had a small

P&S so I put it in a hard plastic case, but considering the size of

this camera, I'm not sure if getting a Pelican case or something

similar is the right choice. What is a good basic setup for people

backpacking (8 to 10 miles a day) with a DSLR? Hard case? Soft

case? I am also wondering what the best setup is so that I am

always ready to shoot. I had my P&S packed away so whenever I

wanted a pic I had to stop and get it out. Is there a better way?

Thanks for all of your help.

[dennisprice]

"...I had my P&S packed away so whenever I wanted a pic I had to stop and get it out. Is there a better way?"

 

One "better way" is to wear the camera on a long strap, bandolier style, around your neck/shoulder and across your chest, with the camera tucked behind the opposite hip. I find it very comfortable, yet easy to reach when the opportunity arises.

 

Most commercial camera straps are not long enough for this, so you may want to get some 1" nylon web, 2 D-rings, and 2 split-rings. Do some measurements with your pack on, and then take the parts to a shoe repair or luggage repair place, where they can sew the D-rings on with heavy duty thread.

 

I made up three of these straps in slightly different lengths to accomodate for different amounts of clothing in different seasons.

 

As for the two lenses, there are a number of manufacturers that make nice cases that can be worn on a pack belt. I like the Lowepro ones.

 

Best,

[mark_chappell]

Two other things to consider when backpacking with a DSLR, both of which depend on

how many pictures you plan to take:

 

1. Power source (extra batteries?)

 

2. Image storage (extra CF cards, or SD, or whatever the 5D takes?)

 

Neither is an issue if your trips last only a few days and you take a hundred images. But if

you want to be out for a while and shoot many hundreds of images -- especially in RAW

format for best image quality -- you need to think about power and storage.

 

There are holster-style cases that might fit on a backpack belt. These will hold the camera

and a fairly substantial lens (like the 75-300). Check the Kinesis site (kinesisgear.com),

but there are other vendors. I'm not sure how well such an arrangement would work with

a substantal pack but it's worth a thought.

[stephen_schoof1]

I have something like one of <a href="tamrac.com/welcome.htm">Tamrac's</a> "holster tele-zoom packs" and wear it in front with a separate belt strap and a neck strap. Lots of straps but still comfortable and the camera is ready both while you're carrying your pack and if you want to take a jaunt away from camp in the evening or morning. (I use film but don't see why there should be a difference with a DSLR in terms of carrying.)

[craig_gillette]

You'll probably need to experiment. I think a Pelican type case is overkill - if you are putting it in the pack, you've likely got enoguh "stuff" to protect it - assuming you don't intend to toss your pack down a steap rock cliff face. The hard cases will provide protection yet an additional degree of difficulty or time used to actually get to the camera to use it.

 

OTOH, the frequency of use may make you want to carry it in a more available way. In soft belt or other cases, you can get relatively faster access than storing deep in the pack and added protection. The ultimate speed would come from carrying in a front carry with a retention strap to keep it from bouncing too much. I doubt you'd want to carry it bouncing free on your chest on a trip where terrain and distance needs meant steady progress was required. The 75-300 lens will possibly fit some of the bottle pouches which could go on the belt. There are some topload holsters which may adapt to the waist belt of the pack or have their own belt. Multiple belts simultaneously would be really uncomfortable I'd think.

 

Speed kind of trades against security and/or comfort.

[rob_murray]

I have done a lot of this type hiking and shooting with 2 similar lenses in the Canon EOS system. Get a soft bag, hard case is useless in the field. Get one that has a shoulder strap AND a waist belt and use them both at the same time. Get one that you can keep either lens mounted on the camera stored inside.

This is so you can grab it quickly and shoot. Keep the bag on your right side hip for easy access and you can still carry a normal backpack for other stuff. Dont bother with the backpack style camera bags unless you are a very slow shooter with a ton of gear to carry.

You have to set it on the ground to get anything out and the ground may be wet and your gonna put that wet pack on your back.I have seen these laid on the sand too and when the flap is closed, it neatly deposited a LOT of sand into the bag..not good.

[gman]

Thom Hogan has an article on his website called 'Take a Hike'. Sorry I don't have the link to his website but a Google search should pull it up.

 

Wayne

[SCL]

My hikes are generally 1-2 weeks duration in remote locations. In addition to carrying a substantial backpack, food & water, I've found that the best arrangement for me is a good nylon strap worn bandoleer style after the pack is in place. For protection, a lenscap on the lens and a shower cap (for the camera) readily available in the event of a downpour. I generally don't change lenses during the daily hike...so I determine in advance what lens will be best for each day's events. If I'm taking digital stuff, an extra battery, charger, memory card and Flashtrax pretty well complete the package...which I arrange to be delivered to where I'll end up at the end of each day.

[peter_lawrence]

Here's the link to Thom Hogan's article, 'Take a Hike':

<br>

<br><a href="http://www.bythom.com/dfoto.htm">http://www.bythom.com/dfoto.htm</a>

[stephen hazelton]

I've backpacked with an SLR in the top of my backpack- and yes, had to remove the backpack to get the camera out. Is that a problem? If you stop and take a shot every 5 minutes it is. If you stop every hour or so, no problem, the 2-minute break is good for you anyway.

[rich_b1]

I agree with a number of the comments made; i.e. carry a hip bag with a waist belt and an additional shoulder strap. I find without the shoulder support, it tends to slide down and takes my pants with it! Also, the "bandolier" style of carry for the camera itself. If you are carrying a backpack for your other things, some of them have D-rings to which you can attach straps which let the camera hang down in front of you at the ready.

 

I'm a big fan of Op-Tech products. The Opt-Tech Pro strap is long enough and comfortable to enable the cross body carry. http://optechusa.com/product/detail/?PRODUCT_ID=23&PRODUCT_SUB_ID=

 

I recently had neck surgery and can no longer use a neck strap, so I found this Bino/Cam harness. http://optechusa.com/product/detail/?PRODUCT_ID=4&PRODUCT_SUB_ID=&CATEGORY_ID=4

 

It is pretty comfortable, not as heavy or confining as most harnesses and has the advantage of the camera always being ready. If you want the camera protected , try the Soft Pouch Sport Harness or one of the neoprene pouch systems http://optechusa.com/product/detail/?PRODUCT_ID=37&PRODUCT_SUB_ID=

but be aware, that's kind of like using one of the old Eveready (also referred to as Neveready-self explanatory) cases.

[yy]

First of all -- don't get a hard case (pelican is good for heavy water, like kayaking) since it'll be THE heaviest thing in your pack and you're not going to enjoy it.

 

Second (this is just my humble opinion) -- you're not going to like your camera being mounted on your side, like on the pack's belt. It will swing around a lot, bounce up and down, make you wider (so you hit trees and bushes in tight spots), and generally not very pleasant. Get a chest pouch -- it's the best way to go. Your camera is fairly well protected from the elements, and you're always ready to shoot.

 

So, get something like a topload mini from lowe pro:

http://lowepro.com/Products/Toploading/classic/Topload_Zoom_Mini.aspx

 

Then get the neoprene strap such as this, and switch with the original one that comes with the bag:

http://lowepro.com/Products/Accessories/add_ons_upgrades/Neoprene_Camera_Strap.aspx

 

finally get another belt loop in any outdoor store (with clips) that will go around your body so that the whole contraption doesn't bounce when you walk.

 

Then you're going to start thinking about your lenses -- and that's where the real fun begins :)

 

Good trails.

[jim_rosario]

In my experience you aren't going to get great pictures with a heavy backpack on. So I don't worry about having the camera always at the ready and stash it in a pack pocket in a soft pouch. Maybe carry a P&S for grab shots. Frankly my film camera still is best for hiking as it is small, picture storage is built in and batteries aren't an issue. Plus if I drop it in the creek no big loss.

[rjacksonphoto]

This is an excellent book on backpacking and photography. My copy doesn't cover digital, but the general recommendations are excellent:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/081743609X/qid=1135530861/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-2505239-6640946?s=books&v=glance&n=283155

[simon27]

When hiking in Rocky Mountain NP you have a <a href="http://www.rockymountainnationalpark.com/camping/permit.html">permit</a> for backcountry camping which pretty much means a fixed itinerary as far as campsites go. I brought a daypack with me so that after I reached camp each day, I could throw my gear in the daypack and hike to any nearby locations I wanted to shoot. If you plan your campsites about 8-12 miles apart, you have time to shoot before leaving and after setting up camp each day with the hiking done during the middle of the day.

[Hector Javkin]

You've already had good advice about carrying your camera. You can carry it in some soft case in front, in which case you can quickly stop and take photographs, or carry it in your pack, in which case you will need additional time to set up. There are two things you might want to consider:

<p>

1. Since you are going backpacking with friends, your opportunities to photograph will be affected by their preferences. Those preferences might affect how much time you have to get your camera out, etc. Use your knowledge of your friends or talk it over with them.

<p>

2. Some hikers (including Colin Fletcher, who wrote <i>The Complete Walker</i>, which has been published in at least three editions, like to use a walking staff or walking stick. Many of these staffs are sold with a removable top that reveals a camera-mount thread. Alternatively, a monopod can serve as a walking staff. Even though your Minolta has image stabilization, it can still benefit from the added stability of a monopod support. If you or any of your friends like to carry a staff, you might consider using it for camera support. It will work best for photography with a quick-release plate and clamp. It is up to you. The only firm advice I want to give you is not to hike with the camera mounted on the staff or monopod -- you will shake the daylights out of your camera, and it may increase your chances of dropping it. You can check out walking staffs at www.rei.com/ and quick release equipment at www.reallyrightstuff.com/ and many other sites.

[bkpix]

Don't carry a case of any kind. It's extra weight and unnecessary.

 

Simplify your gear as much as possible. Go for one body and one lens if you can. Big Ziplocs work great for weather protection. Shower cap is also a good idea.

 

If you mean to take pictures while on the trail, keep that one body and lens accessible, hanging around your neck or off your shoulder where you can reach it without putting your pack down. Unless the trail is incredibly easy or you're in super shape, fatigue will keep you from stopping and taking your pack off and digging the camera out for at least half the great photos you see, maybe more like 90 percent, if your camera is carried in your pack.

 

I've lately decided to ditch the SLR for long hikes and instead carry a good quality weatherproof P&S in my pants pocket. Many more photos get made that way.

 

BK

[fourfa]

I can second the recommendation for the Charles Campbell book. Used copies for $1.77! He spends a little too much time talking about day hiking, which is no challenge, but there's good info on long distance backpacking too.

 

I've been through this a lot. I disagree completely with the idea that few good pictures get taken with a heavy pack on. If your pack weighs 45 lbs (many people carry this much), photography is going to be a struggle. Even walking is going to be a struggle. If your pack is 20 lbs, you won't even notice it's on. Towards this end, the best thing you can do for your backpacking photography may have nothing to do with cameras, and everything to do with the rest of your camping gear. Look into lightweight backpacking - lots of websites will show up via google, and check out a book called "Beyond Backpacking" by Ray Jardine. I had to go down this route due to knee injury, but the side benefits have been myriad.

 

Anyway, that's not really what you asked about. For a small rig, I often carry mine without any case, reversed around the neck and one shoulder so the lens points backwards (hangs better that way). Extra lens in the pack side pocket. Tripod either extended and used as a walking stick, or folded on the side of the pack.

 

For a more extensive rig with 3-4 lenses and 2 bodies (film and digital in my case - some things just call for Velvia) I use a Mountainsmith waist pack on the front on my lower hips, with the pack waistbelt on my pelvic bones. Sometimes I'll connect the top of the waistpack to the shoulder straps via the sternum strap. This is roughly the same as having a front-mount soft case, just bigger capacity. If it's done right, the weight of the camera gear will pull the pack forward and balance very neutrally, with very little weight on your shoulders. This has been a comfortable all-day 18-25 mile solution for me. Keep in mind this is with a 20 lbs baseweight though. Everything is easier if you're only planning 8-10 mile days.