17-55 IS lens - Does IS really make a difference?

[lana_k]

I mostly use my 20d with the 24-70 L lens for pretty much

everything. However I think that a lot of my images are out of

focus, or focused on different things other than where I want the

focus to be. At first I thought it was a problem with the camera, I

sent it in twice and both times it was returned saying that the auto

focus is fine. So I thought it was the slower lens I was using at

the time, so I got the 24-70 2.8 lens but it didn�t help the

focusing issues at all. Let me say that I never use a tripot, and

perhaps my hands are not the steadiest around. I like to more

around my subject and shoot at different angles so using a tripod is

not the best solution for me, so I�ve started to think about trying

an IS lens. Does IS really make a difference? And if so, that�s

another dilemma because I�m thinking that eventually I will upgrade

to a 5d, which is why I want to keep my 24-70 and the new 17-55 IS

lens is an EF-S lens and therefore wont work with a 5d when I do

upgrade. Is it worth the shot to try the IS lens, sell the 24-70 in

hopes that when I upgrade to full frame canon will come out with a

24-70 IS?

[mike_hodson]

This may be two different issues. One is out of focus...one is blurriness due to camera shake (from slow shutter speeds).

 

Did you know that the actual focus sensors are slightly bigger than the rectangles in the viewfinder screen? You have to make sure that what you are want to be focusing on...is actually what the autofocus sensor is seeing.

 

I.S. will help you to get sharper shots...at slower shutter speeds that would normally be possible. It will not help, if you can't get the focus right in the first place.

 

With your "out of focus" shots, what was the shutter speed? If it was slower than the reciprocal of your focal length, chances are higher that what you are seeing is camera shake...in which case, I.S. may help.

 

Also, do you mean the EF-S 18-85 IS lens? I haven't heard that Canon makes a 17-55 IS. They also make an EF 28-135 IS, which is supposed to be a pretty good lens on the full frame format.

[zacker]

Well I have the 24135 Is and while its definetly not a "L" lens its my favorite. I wish Canon would make more IS lenses and perhaps more of these non L could be f2.8 too? along with IS. Id say yes, IS does make a difference, you still need to try to hold it steady but its a big help!

-zacker-<div></div>

[ajweiss]

<i>I think that a lot of my images are out of focus, or focused on different things other

than where I want the focus to be.</i>

 

<p>If your images are truly out of focus, IS will not help at all. If they are just blurry, you

may benefit from IS. What shutter speeds are you getting when you shoot. If they are too

low, you may have camera shake issues. If not, you probably have technique issues.

 

<p>What camera mode are you using? What focus mode are you using? Are you manually

selecting a focus point? (If not, try that.) What lighting conditions are you dealing with? Are

you using the 24-70 at 2.8? The depth of field is pretty shallow that way, so problems you

many have with focusing technique would be greatly amplified.

 

<p>If you can give some more info and post some sample shots, maybe some of us can

comment better on your problem.

[pto189]

I only contribute to the part that I'm pretty sure. Canon will be unlikely wasting their time and money to make a EF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS. The current 24-70 is a near perfect lens for weddings and indoor events. A 24-70 f/2.8L IS will weight 3lbs and cost $2000. If you need IS, buy the 24-105 f/4L IS. If you need both f/2.8 and IS, buy the coming EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS.

[mendel_leisk]

It sounds like you are letting the camera choose the focus point(s). Very often it will not pick what you want. Perhaps try using the center focus point only, using the focus and recompose technique. In the manual this is explained. Or the "servo" mode, for moving subjects.

[jurigab]

Yes, the IS system can help you in a lot of condition.

I have it on 28-135 and even if the IS system on it is 1st generation of IS it works fine.

If you had to upgrade to full frame, the EF-S 17-55 F/2.8 is not a good choice because you can't use it on a full frame camera. Buy the 24-105 f/4L IS, even if is hard to choice another lens when you know the 24-70L.

I don't think that Canon will release a IS version of 24-70 L lens.

bye

[dk.]

Hi Lana, I will recommend what I did a long time ago to you before you bought your 24-70mm F2.8L if I remember correctly, get the 24-105mm F4L IS lens, its sharper then the 24-70mm F2.8L and yes IS does help if you are not as steady as you would like to be or should be. :o)

 

I had both and the 24-105mm F4L IS is sharper. If you want a really great and sharp lens get the 135mm F2L prime it is one of Canons best and at F2 It is very sharp you will love the pictures you can take with it.

 

By the way about the focus points like someone mentioned above, I only use the center point but I am sure you know what you are doing when it comes to that. The 24-105mm F4L IS will work on the 5D when you upgrade too. Take Care Lana, feel free to stop by and say hi sometime.

 

DK.

[peter_white2]

If you're working in a studio and don't like the inconvenience of a tripod, consider a camera stand. They roll around as needed. And the good ones allow very quick and easy height changes.

[awindsor]

<blockquote><i>

With your "out of focus" shots, what was the shutter speed? If it was slower than the reciprocal of your focal length, chances are higher that what you are seeing is camera shake...in which case, I.S. may help.

</blockquote></i>

Since you are using the 20D you need to include the 1.6x crop factor in the computation. This is a rule of thumb only. With longer lenses I certainly require faster shutter speeds if I want to get tack sharp results. The longer lenses benefit more from the IS in everyday use.

[mike_hodson]

Not to drag this too off topic...but does the shutter speed/focal length rule of thumb really need to be adjusted for the 1.6 crop factor? After all, the length (and therefore instability) of the lens does not change when it's being used on a 1.6 sensor. The only difference is that the sensor is seeing the centre portion of the image projected by the lens. That center portion would be just as shaky on either a full frame or a crop camera.

[ajweiss]

Mike,

 

The 1/focal-length rule does not lead to shake-free pictures, only "acceptably" shake-free

pictures. Different people have different opinions of acceptable, so the rule does not apply

for everyone.

 

That said, you will see more camera shake per pixel on a 1.6x camera than a full-frame

camera because the pixels are smaller and the field of view is smaller. Therefore, for APS-

sized sensors, the rule for "acceptability" should be 1/1.6(focal-length).

[ajweiss]

To clarify that a little: when you view a 1.6x crop shot, you are enlarging it more than a FF

shot to get to the same print size. In doing so, you also magnify the camera shake.

[mike_hodson]

I think that should be IF you are enlarging it to the same print size. If you are comparing it...pixel for pixel...shouldn't it be theoretically the same? I do so the logic though, thanks for clarifying that.

[KenPapai]

No, this has been gone over and over; for the rule of thumb you also have to factor in the sensor crop factor, thus 1/80th second is the "slowest" you can handhold your 50mm safely (for a 10D or 20D or 30D).

 

Back to the OP -- I.S. is a rich man's tripod. I.S. adds $200 to $500 to the price of a lens. An excellent Manfrotto with ball head is $200 and it will work with any lens. I understand you eschew tripods but sometimes it's the best way. The best of all worlds is a fast lens (f/2.8 or faster) and I.S. But I maintain fast lens trumps I.S. -- however if you have shaky hands then go with the slower lens and the I.S.

[fourfa]

"If you are comparing it...pixel for pixel...shouldn't it be theoretically the same?"

 

Yes, sort of. If you were to compare a cropped APS-C digital camera to a 16mmx24mm crop of film (i.e. equivalent field of view) at equal print sizes, you'd want the same shutter speed for both - 1 / 1.6 x focal length. As you crop deeper, you need faster shutter speeds to keep the blur the same size for a given print size. Digital or film, it doesn't matter - just the crop factor.

[steve santikarn]

I wonder if the shallow depth of field on the 24-70 f2.8 might not be the problem for you. Wide opened the lens has very shallow DOF and anything that is not on the focal plane will be quickly out of focus. Crank up the ISO and stop down the lens to f 8 (say) and see what happens.

[touchinglightphotography]

You probably already know this...but IS can actually contribute to blur if you don't let it settle for a second before fully depressing the shutter release. So...if you half-depress for about 1 second before fully depressing the release, the IS will stabilize...then the photo will be taken after it has settled and is "engaged".

 

Also, get accustomed to selecting your focus points, and manually select where you want the camera to focus. The central focus point (at least on the 5D) is more sensitive (lower light) and more accurate than other focus points...so an alternative, depending on the situation, is to focus using the central focus point (then optionally shifting to "manual" focus mode so the focus does not change), then recompose, let the IS settle, then shoot.

 

Read your EXIF file to understand why your images may be blurry...this info is extremely helpful in accelerating the learning curve and in troubleshooting!

 

Richard Mitchell

 

Touching Light Photography

 

www.touchinglightphotography.com

[daniel_taylor]

"so an alternative, depending on the situation, is to focus using the central focus point (then optionally shifting to "manual" focus mode so the focus does not change), then recompose, let the IS settle, then shoot."

 

Just move AF off the shutter and onto another button. Not sure what CF it is on the 5D, but it has got to be there. Best configuration with USM lenses, especially when used with the center AF point. You never have to think about "manual" vs. "auto" focus again, you just naturally use the right one for the shot.

[touchinglightphotography]

Daniel:

 

Yes, it can be done on the 5D. The other (manual focus) method may be easier for some...in addition, in the "One Shot" focusing mode, you can focus and recompose while still depressing the release 1/2 way, and the original focus will be retained.

 

Richard

[harold_lassers]

I have had 3 IS lenses and still have 2. IS is WONDERFUL but I doubt that it is the answer to your question. As I read your problem statment I see two things.

1. "My hands aren't the steadiest..." IS will definitely help - a lot

2. "or focus on different things or other than where I want the focus to be" - IS will do you absolutely no good.

 

I have three suggestions.

1. Try a tripod just as a test. I know it won't make you happy in your shooting, but if it does not solve your problem you absolutely know IS won't.

2. rent an IS lens? Depends if you live in a big city.

3. As a test only :does strobe or high shutter speed solve your focus problem. If these don't solve the problem neither will IS. If these solve your focus problem then shake may well be your issue and IS may be worthwhile.

[ifeito]

Lana,

 

I've read through all the responses you have received and I think no one has touched on something that could be causing blurry photos and has nothing to do with lens option.

 

You mention that many of your images are out of focus or FOCUSED ON DIFFERENT THINGS.

 

Because of your last comment I would think that the problem is your shooting technique. I would suggest that you start by picking the central point focusing only (I assume you know how to do this). Now start practicing focusing on exactly what you want to shoot by pressing your shutter halfways (usually try for your model's eyes); now recompose your shot without releasing the shutter button and SHOOT!

 

Now put your wallet away and stop throwing money at this!

 

Well, actually you could throw a little bit of money. Buy a large aperture lens. 50 F1.4 would be nice. It will give you a brighter viewfinder that will let you see if you are in focus where you want or not.

 

One last thing, stay away from the creative modes for a while; use the P (Program) setting for a while; it will usually set shutter speeds compatible with the focal length your shooting at.

 

Finally, IS is great, but your 24-70 is even cooler.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Ignacio

[lana_k]

Thank you for the responses. I have tried this a lot of times - set the camera on P, use the central focusing point, focus on the eyes while pressing the shutter button half way, zoom out, recompose and take a picture. Still looks blurry! Thats why I sent it in to Canon twice, I thought there was something wrong with my camera after reading some complains about 20d focusing issues. Then I got a better lens, but it still seems like my images are a little blurry/out of focus.

[touchinglightphotography]

Lana...can you post a picture, and the accompanying EXIF file so we could see the parameters. Also, did you try making sure that the IS has one or two seconds to "engage" before releasing the shutter fully? ...and, what are your results with your camera on a tripod, and your mirror locked up? Manual focus? I use a Canon 5D and the 24-70 (previously used the 24-70 on my 10D), and that lens is great. IS works well, if the parameters are set correctly, and good technique is used. I too, wish for a 24-70 IS!

<p>

Richard Mitchell, Touching Light Photography

<p>

www.touchinglightphotography.com

[ajweiss]

<i>..focus on the eyes while pressing the shutter button half way, <b>zoom out</b>,

recompose and take a picture.</i>

 

<p>Are you focusing with the lens zoomed all the way to the telephoto setting, then

switching to a wider-angle view to take the picture? If so, I think we may have found the

problem. I'm almost certain that the unnamed "slower lens" you had in the past would not

maintain focus when the focal length is changed. I do not have a Canon 24-70, but from

the design of the lens, I doubt that it does either.

 

<p>Unless I am mistaken on the 24-70, if you are zooming in, focusing, zooming out,

then taking the picture, you are throwing the image out of focus every time.