riz Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hi, I am going to shoot in the exhibition. I have Nikon F70 and Tamron 28-300 Macro. I do not have flash. I have to cover the exhibition, it is indoor in the white light (tube light). I would be very grateful if you suggest that what film speed and which brand shall I use. I dont have flash and cannot get that. Please give me some tips to make the picture appealing and of good quality. Thanking you in anticipation. Riz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 The trouble with "flourescent" lighting is that it's color temperature isn't quite daylight or tungsten. And it is often a non linear spectrum to boot, which negates using most "FL" filters. It is said that Fuji pro color negative films have a 4th emulsion layer that can help with errant color temp shifts. Inside, I would use their NPZ 800. Or try high speed B&W film, then color temp becomes irrelevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riz Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hi Steve, Thanks for the reply. I dont have filter and cannot get that. Please tell me which Fuji film to use and its speed. Regards, Riz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_hickie1 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hi. It's called Fuji NPZ 800. Here is a link to their USA web page http://www.fujifilm.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/proPhotoProductsPortrait.jsp?NavBarId=item778801 Don't know where you are or when you need it by, so cannot advise on a supplier. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaimie blue Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Are you shooting people or set-ups. If you are shooting set-ups use a tri-pod, fast speed film, slow shutter speed, wide aperture. I shot a factory place type with all flourescent lights, no filter, no flash, 400 speed slide film, long exposures, and most of the shots came out great and the client thought they were looked artistic, however the colour did have to be corrected on some of the shots, the slides were scanned and an art director did some colour correction on a few. If you do not use a filter there could be a greenish cast. Get a filter it is easy and around 25 bucks, worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riz Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hi Jaimie, Thanks for the reply. I want to shoot both people and objects. What do you think if I use film instead of slide? Wil it make any difference. I cannot get the filter. But I do have the tripod stand. Please tell me the aperture and shutter spped setting. Regards, Riz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfr Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 A tripod will only help you for the objects, people are moving all the time, so without flash you can't reasonably go under 1/30. With a big lens like that you should probably stay around 1/50, even at the wide end. It is probably a 3.5 or 4.5-6.3 lens? In that case you need all the light you can get. Bring some 3200 film just in case. Kodak tmax 3200 can get very nice results. Also, stay on the wide end of your zoom, because of the bigger aperture. Zoom in with your feet. Get close to the people. Shoot object always from your tripod. Use a slower film and not your widest aperture. Long exposures don't matter. You could also try some artsy stuff by shooting the room from you tripod on a small aperture with a long exposure (like 10-15 seconds).Clients like that love these type of shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakley Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Rizwan, another possibility is to use black & white film - if this is acceptable to your customers. Kodak TMAX P3200 is a very good film if you shoot it at ISO 1600 and have the lab develop it normally (that is, develop it for ISO 3200). This has the advantage that you won't have to worry about weird colors from the flourescent lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfr Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 BTW I get a little nervous when you talk about using slide film. You could try that for the art and bracket your shots, but I wouldn't recommend it for people shots. Use film for it's latitude. Plus you can usually push and pull film without too much negative effects. What you could try is Tri-X. You can push and pull it as much as you need, as long as you've got someone to develop it for you (like a good lab, or yourself if you're experienced.) Whatever film you try, read about it a little on the net and try a few rolls before your event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35mmdelux Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 you need to get some stuff if you're going to be shooting for "jobs." Its kinda like going to a construction job without a hammer. Slide film is ridiculous considering the very basic questions you're asking. KEEP IT SIMPLE. As far as color film is concerned, I wouldn't sweat not having filters. Many PJ shooters take it AS IS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I'd get the Fuji color negative film, 800 ISO or even 1600. Fuji film is better in fluorescent lighting. With a slow lens, you will need every bit of speed you can get to keep your shutter speeds up. You will need to be wide open all the time, probably, and possibly try to avoid using the telephoto end of your zoom too much as you would need to use faster shutter speeds if handholding. Use the tripod if you can, but at such events, you probably can't reasonably use one too often. Hopefully, your clients won't be using the images in large sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaimie blue Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Hi Rizwan, I was only illustrating that I did a fluroscent type job with slide film, but not recommend that you shoot with slide film for this job unless you are certain you can be dead on with your exposures. Take all advice on this post and use the fuji negative film, shoot wide open and use the slowest shutter you can on tripod for set-ups, still lifes, architecture, etc. For people, I use to always shoot in low light situations with no flash, for years and years and held held with slow shutter and wide aperture and managed some great shots, but I do not know your situation, lighting, conditions, etc. Let us know how it goes, and hope it goes okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Looks like a great time to shoot B&W. Delta 3200 rated at 1600 would be good, but the no flash part leaves a lot to speculation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamchuttonjr Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 If you go with Fuji 800 or 1600 negative film, do not underexpose. When these films are underexposed the images (especially shadows of course) become very grainy. I use Fuji NPZ800 a lot and it works well in low-light situations when exposed properly. You might set the camera ISO to 640 or use exposure compensatuion. The lens you have is slow for indoor available light applications. You might think about renting a fast lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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