Fuji GX680 Checklist

[mark_ryan2]

I'm looking to expanding into MF to compliment my 35 rangefinder and

digital gear. I'm new to MF, so some of my questions are general

ignorance, some specific about the GX system. It seems the GX would

give the biggest advantages over my other gear with bigger negatives,

and the ability to do tilt and shifts. I've learned a lot with the

achives here and Danny's site, great resource.

 

What happened to gx680.com? I really didn't see all the info that

some older posts seemed to alude to.

 

It seems that the III is not really more capable than I and II?

 

On parts swaping, the I & II can use the III series backs with the

different masks (Could someone explain "backs" and 120 & 220 inserts,

how hard is it to reload film?)

 

I'm getting that the AE finder is nice, but people still usually use

a handheld meter.

 

What is the diffence between GX and GXM lenses? I thought I saw

someone make that distinction.

 

What would be a checklist of parts I need (like backs and parts,

batteries, chargers, remote releases, finders)?

 

What would be the price range for a 65mm lens with a recommended kit

set-up? I'd like to add a 80-100mm 35mm equivilent portrait lens

later.

 

I see Robert White is often suggested as a source, but I don't see

him with much. I travel to Denver, Chicago, Dallas, Houston,

Minneapolis - any shops there specialize in 680s?

[jodi_p]

Hi Mark,

 

I don't own a 680 myself, but many of the photographers I assist do. I'll try to offer you any info I may have.

 

I really don't know what kind of shooting you do (or plan to do with your new camera), but keep in mind that the Fuji 680 is a beast! A good tripod is a must with this one...

 

Film is quite easy to load once you get the hang of it. The camera has a removable 'back' which sort of twists on the back of the camera (when it is off, there is really just a hole into the camera body). This back has a darkslide which must be removed before you can shoot. You can choose to rotate the back to shoot horizontally, or vertically depending on your shot. The film back holds the film cartridge/insert (the part that you load the film on), which can either be loaded on or off the camera. Its nice to have an extra insert or even better to have an extra back... great to have multiple types of film on the go.

There is also the option of a polaroid back if you like.

 

I don't have any experience with the masks for the 680 III, but I understand that they allow for shooting multiple formats other than just 6x8.

 

Sorry, not sure on the difference between the GX / GXM lenses either.

 

I can see the advantages to using a 680 (large negs, camera movements etc.). Many of the photographers that I work for photograph interiors or food with it. I must say though that I see a lot of them break down on a regular basis. The camera has quite a lot of electronics, which seem to be costly to fix. Fuji has also discontinued this camera, and will not be supporting it much longer (if they still do). That being said... the cameras that I work with have all put in many many miles of day to day work. Perhaps you can find one with fresh life in it! :)

 

I don't know if I've really been any help here. Hopefully you will have more replies from experienced 680 owners.

 

Good luck!

 

Jodi

[danny burk www.dannyburk.]

Mark - The 680's great advantage over other MF models is in having view camera style movements, and of course the supersize neg is nice too. Answers to some of your questions...

 

Beware of accessory compatibility; many accessories are NOT compatible between I/II and III. Although III doesn't really do much that I/II can't do, I'd give preference to III if only because parts and accessories will be easier to find. Not having used the earlier models, I'm not terribly familiar with them, but they do use a dedicated battery that is likely to be hard to find; not the case with III.

 

As Jodi says, the backs are very nice. Note that those for I/II are dedicated to 120 *or* 220 exclusively, whereas those for III have swappable inserts that fit into just one type of back. They're easy to load after you've figured it out the first time.

 

The masks are sort of a pain; you need the proper mask plus matching mask for the v/f, and they can only be changed at the start of a roll. I just shoot fullframe and crop if needed.

 

I use a handheld meter for everything. I do have the AE finder, but use it merely for its prism feature. AE isn't available with mirror lockup (the latter of which is a MUST with such a huge mirror), and the area which it meters is none too precise: somewhere between CW and spot. You can download the exposure compensation chart on my site for closeup use.

 

No major difference between GX/GXM lenses; the newer line has a shutter counter, certainly no reason IMO to prefer them.

 

I'd get at least 2 backs; a cable release is a must. I consider a prism finder essential, rather than the w/l finder that comes with the basic camera; if you don't want to shoot everything from waist level or lower, you'll feel the same. I also consider the grid GG a must; you may or may not, depending on what you're doing with the camera.

 

Midwest (www.mpex.com) frequently has used 680 equipment available.

 

I'm surprised to see Jodi's comment about them breaking down frequently; they've been tanks in my experience.

 

What's your main use for the camera? If landscape, you may want to consider a 4x5 setup instead. It will be lighter, less expensive, have more extensive movements, greater lens/accessory choice, and of course the larger neg. Downside, it is much slower to set up and of course will have greater film cost per exposure.

 

Best regards,

Danny www.dannyburk.com

[jean-louis llech]

I don't consider that the Fuji GX 680 is a valuable camera system for many reasons :<br>

1) The camera - as far as I know - is no more produced. What about repair ?<br>

2) The weight : a 680 GX III weights more or less like a large format camera. A GX with a 135mm lens weights 4 070gr without batteries. A Linhof MT45 (one of the heaviest folding cameras) with a 150mm and a Super-Rollex 6x9 back weights 4200gr.<br>

3) The movements are less important than on a LF camera.<br>

4) The lenses : on a view camera, you can buy several brands, Schneider, Rodenstock, Nikon, Fuji lenses, the model and the focal length you wish. On a GX680, you only have Fuji lenses for a Fuji 680.<br>

5) The price : for less than the price of a GX680III, you will easily find a wooden or metal camera and lenses.<br>

Only my opinion.<br>

[michael_meyer]

I'm not a Fuji 680 user and read your post only out of curiosity, but can't help but

want to respond. Take what I say, then, with a grain of salt if you wish.

 

You don't say what it is you shoot, but from the sound of your posting, I'm guessing a

bit of this and a bit of that. I'd tell you to pass on the Fuji 680. I have no experience

with it, but it is big, heavy and cumbersome. It has lots of features that may work for

some people, but if you are looking at it because of the big negative and the

movements, then you are probably barking up the wrong tree.

 

I'd suggest you look at a view camera or field camera for either MF or 4x5. You'll get

the benefits of the bigger negative, more flexability, more choices, and more

movements than you would with a Fuji. You lose only the auto features of the Fuji. If

you want Fuji glass, you can get it for large format cameras. I have a Fuji 125mm for

my 4x5 and it is a great lens.

 

If you want movements and medium format, a Century Graphic will

give you a nice small package capable of using a 65mm lens that will have more

movements than a Fuji 680. And you can, as someone else noted, use any makers' LF

lenses with it. It will also be far lighter and if you get one with a rangefinder and

viewfinder, you can handhold it to boot.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

-michael

www.michaelmeyerphoto.com

[johnmarkpainter]

<<3) The movements are less important than on a LF camera.>>

 

???? nah. IF you need them you need them. They come in handy on a 35mm camera

when they are available.

 

AE is a waste. If you are bothering to lug that camera around you should have a meter

too.

 

The Fuji GX lenses are GREAT. I don't own one, but have used them. There are mods for

the batteries on the older models. Check www.keh.com as they have lots of GX stuff.

 

Yes, you could use a 4x5 camera with a rollfilm back but it won't be an SLR

[peter williams]

Wow, nothing like asking a question about the GX680 to bring out the negative responses from people that don't own one. I have the GX680 II version and I love it. The one drawback used to be the proprietary battery for the earlier models, as Danny said, but I purchased a AA battery holder from Fuji ($70) and have no more worries. The camera is fantastic in any situation where you would normally use a tripod - landscape, portrait, still life, etc. The lenses are fantastic, although I believe the 80mm seems to be more preferred than the 65mm for wide angle use. Here's what I would look for:

 

Body; 120 Back with insert; angle finder; a normal range lens (100mm 125mm or 150mm; sturdy tripod; AA battery holder if earlier model body; handheld meter.

 

I drag mine all over the place and I have never found it to be too heavy or bulky. It does look intimidating, but that quickly vanishes with use. Using the camera is very intuitive for me and I really, really like the bellows focusing. With the extended wide angle bellows or the long bellows you can create some really great macro shots. I have used the Mamiya 6 rangefinder (still do and love it), Hasselblad 500CM and Fuji GX680, and I find that the GX680 best fits the way I shoot. If you are interested in it, prices for used GX680 equipment have become very affordable. Give it a try and see how it works for you.

 

Peter

[anh_dinh1]

The GX-680 is like a rock. The lens is really sharp. As one may said, if you really care about the neg size then go for the 45. However, the 45 take longer setup time ( I use the Sinar P2 only when I am familiar with). The GX shots rolls therefore you can take the rolls and put in the bag. The 45 is using film back. Each back holds only 2 neg, and if you go for a long trip, it will be a big deal.

[fredrik_larsson1]

Hi, just bought one and it's a beauty! Think it's a modell II (how can you tell I and II apart?). Bought it here in Sweden were I live from a well known company in Stockholm with warranty for less than the equal of 700 us dollars. Lens, kompendium, back and more. Best price I've ever seen! I have only shoot two rolls so far but I'm impressed!

Fredrik L

[steinar_almelid]

As an owner of a Fuji GX 680, I am in between the answers of Fuji 680 owners and LF

users.

 

I still use this beautiful camera for landscape, one of the few who carry 40 pounds of

GX680 gear happily around in the mountains (with steep downhill hikes I do recommend

walking poles, though, to protect the knees). I have a GX 680 Mk II with 50mm, 100mm

and 210mm Fuji GX lenses, two film backs and a solid Gitzo tripod/head. I use a LowePro

Super Trekker backpack to carry it all, an early model of this one: http://

www.lowepro.com/Products/Backpacks/allWeather/Super_Trekker_AW_II.aspx.

 

Two film backs is a must. Otherwise you will end up tossing film away when conditions

change or you want to do black&white.

 

For metering, I use my Nikon. For battery solution, see mine here: http://vistra.no/uk/

fujigx680.htm

 

On the LF reflections you have received, consider the cost of such a solution vs the cost of

a used GX680 kit. You should be able to get the latter fairly reasonable on ebay (without

recommending them). I bought a 50mm GX lens there for 1100 euro last fall. I saw camera

systems for about the same price.

 

Today, I probably would go for a LF camera if the parts situation is better there. It is hard

to get parts for the GX680. The solution might be to buy a used spare camera and pick

parts from it. Otherwise, www.keh.com points to people who offer repair for such camera.

 

If you can work around the parts and eventually service issue with a GX 680, go for a Mk III

model to minimize the risk. Forget the AE finder, the mirror comment above explains why.

 

If I were to buy a larger filmbased camera today, I would go for a the GX680 again or

choose a current LF camera with a 6x9 back available. I would seriously consider the parts

situation there too though, it might not be that much better in the long run. There are

many GX680s out there to buy inexpensively and use for parts, an LF system is probably

much more narrow.

 

Sincerely, Steinar Almelid

[sean_robinson1]

<p>I personally own two GX680II bodys along with two releases (long and short), extension tubes for the front standard, two sets of standard bellows and two sets of bag bellows, two batteries, one AA battery pack, 4 120 backs, 2 poloroid backs, angle finder, 60mm, 50mm, 125mm, 180mm, and a 80mm lenses along with many other parts that came with this kit. So far its been an incredible camera. I mainly shoot portraits, landscapes and architecture with it.<br>

I don't have much other experience with this camera, as i got it only a few weeks ago, but i do know that it is possibly one of the easiest cameras to use, in that everything is rather self-explanatory. The camera is monstrous, but on the plus side to the weight, this camera is incredible sturdy. I've taken it out in 30 mile an hour winds and rain to shoot night landscapes and was able to get perfectly sharp images at f45 and a 5 min exposure with the 50mm lens, and a manfrotto 475B tripod with a 229 head. <br>

The negative side is that i have to carry the whole kit around in an 8X10 studio camera box case i got from my school before they threw it away. <br>

I never leave to shoot with this camera without a light meter, i use a sekonic studio master because it is completely manuel and doesn't have any extra bells and whistles. Overall this is a great camera, the glass give incredibly sharp images, and the whole system is rather user friendly, once you played with it for an hour or two. </p>

<p>I've seen this kit that i have go onliine for $15,000 (US) in 2005, but recently i've seen one body, 1 120 back and either a 65mm or 80m lens kit go for about 450 on e-bay (whether or not they are still there or in working condition i do not know)</p>