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Pro-T Bracket/LumiQuest Big Bounce/Gary Fong LightSphere II


timhaut

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Well I just purchased a Pro-T bracket but wondering if it is worth the investment. I know it

all depends on preference but what do all of you who have used it think? Do you like it? If I

have a LumiQuest Big Bounce or something like the Gary Fong LightSphere does it make

sense to have the bracket as well? If not I just might return one of these. Which one would

you get rid of if you had to choose; the bracket or the big bounce/lightsphere? What am I

really gaining or losing in each? As always thanks for all of your input!

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Tim - it really sometimes comes down to different tools for different situations.

 

Whether you use a Big Bounce or a Lightsphere you are still prone to side shadows if you shoot portrait with your subject close to a wall.

 

The purpose of the bracket is to keep the flash above the lens. If anything I would probably retain the bracket as you may need it at some stage.

 

I have a Big Bounce but dont use it all that often anymore due to it's size.

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Now have a closet full of flip brackets just sitting there doing nothing. The Light-Sphere is all

we use now. Constant flipping destroyed so many off-camera cords and flash mounts I finally

gave up on flip brackets.

 

Set-up and tear down is done in seconds with these things. A p.n. member suggested

storage in the bag over a wide-angle lens, which worked. Also can string them on a shoulder

strap when using smaller bags.

 

Haven't seen any difference, so conveniece and not destroying gear won out.

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For what it's worth: The main reason I like my Camera Flip bracket is that I can use it on a tripod, and switch from horizontal to vertical while keeping the flash above the camera.

 

I think whatever system you use, there will always be advantages and disadvantages. I mean, you can bring four or five soft boxes to a ceremony location and lose the portability for the sake of better lit images, or you can simply use one on-camera flash for the sake of convenience but lose depth and definition.

 

My set-up yesterday for the "alter formals" was a 550ex on a camera flip pointed straight up using a 15' high white ceiling, with a 420ex slave set very near-by pointing into a transluscent umbrella. Ratio set 3:1 in favor of the 420. Only had 25 minutes for formals.

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I also have a couple sitting around. I have used the quick flip Z(when I shot w/out the battery pack attached) and more recently, a Pro-T. I too have several in a closet not being used. I am using variations of the GF LS PJ (clear). The LS requires a little care about shooting against walls or solid backgrounds that at close to your subject, but does do a great job for 95% of its intended use.
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Without actually using the LS, you aren't going to know whether you can work without a bracket or not. Some people do and it works great for them. I still use a bracket when I use the LS. There are still some times when I either use another type of modifier or use the LS pointed directly ahead, in vertical mode. It is for those times that I use the bracket. I hate side shadows. If you can engineer all your shots, especially vertical ones, where the side shadows aren't apparent or very diminished, then I'd say, go without a bracket. If you can't or just hate side shadows, use a bracket.

 

As for the bracket itself, it does make a difference whether you need to flip the flash, or keep the flash stationary (minimizing reorientation of the modifier and wear and tear on the cord/flash) and flip the camera. Plus, brackets are too personal a preference to give any good advice re what will work for you. You'll just have to figure it out for yourself, with light quality as the driving factor. I would say, keep the bracket--it may come in handy at some point even if you decide to go bracket-less. More importantly, use the LS or other modifier to death so you'll know what you prefer. Also, I find the Big Bounce too big and heavy, but again, that's my preference.

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Tim as outlined I would probable keep the bracket as you never know when you will use it. I have a box of modifiers inclusing the Lumiquest Soft-Box, Midi Bouncer, Big Bounce and Stofen Omni Bounce. I generally no longer use a diffuser outside and instead dial my flash down to a point where it's not noticable. Inside I usually try and find a wall or ceiling to bounce off. Where none of those are available I use the omni bounce. I use the Pro RL Bracket which gives a lot of flexability with different cameras although I have stopped using it a little lately as it is bulky.

 

That said I am tempted to try the Lightsphere. Which one do you all use LS, LS II, or the one David mentioned.

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" ...I can't imagine destroying them from the frequent flipping."

 

I should've been more detailed in the reasoning. The experience was specifically related to

the larger Canon 550EX. The foot on that flash is plastic with a slot cut in it, which is it's

Achilles heel. The fulcrum effect can snap that area, and did so on two of my flashes.

 

I never had that problem with a Nikon SB flash. The Canon 580EX is lighter and doesn't

have the slot ... but being plastic may still break with a diffuser added and frequent

flipping or a flip bracket that works itself a bit loose.

 

Just a caution.

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You forgot the smily face David : -)

 

The damaged 550EX was salvaged by Epoxy welding it to a steel shoe mounted to a

Stroboframe QR. I can use it on a bracket with a STE-2 firing it. Hand hold it, or mount it on a

stand set to Slave. It's a third optional light to the two 580EXs now in use, and I occasionally

loan it to other local photographers. Not pretty, but it's way stronger and more stable than it

was.<div>00Fi9S-28918984.thumb.jpg.7ba03c87c3c0d7009c7fb9de8c89b3ec.jpg</div>

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Different experiences David. Maybe different flash. When I posted this info before, a number

of other Canon users had the same experience of the 550EX foot breaking off. Had a similar

experience with a Contax TLA 360 flash. So did my shooting partner. Not everything is made

the same.

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I've heard the same thing said of the Off-Camera Shoe Cord--the plastic foot breaks off. Mine finally did, and I was surprised to learn that you can order just that bottom piece of plastic casing from Canon--costs about $3. I did, and paid more for the shipping than the unit. Even so, I now attach the cord's foot via the 1/4 20 screw, not by the foot.
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The Nikon SB-800 foot is very strong so I'm not worried about it. But Marc's point regarding cord damage is definitely a valid concern.

 

When I got my Custom Bracket CB Junior the first thing I noticed is that it wanted to cut my expensive SC-29 TTL flash cord in half. The CB Junior uses heavier gauge metal and a strong pivot point compared with Stroboframes and would be very effective as a cable cutter. It would also make a good impromptu weapon. I experimented with various wraps and came up with one that keeps the cord out of the pinch point. I've added a ponytail hair doobie and some tape to ensure the cord stays out of harm's way. No problems since figuring out the right wrap. I can flip-flop without worrying about snipping my cord.

 

I tried using my SB-800 with the included Omni-Bounce type diffuser without the bracket but in verticals there was enough side shadow to bother me a little, at least in tight quarters. So I'm still using the bracket.

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Moose Peterson used to have a supplier of shortend Nikon TTL cords, really quite handy if you just shoot on the bracket and don't need the reach of the full cord. Google his name and browse his site; Really Right Stuff may have been the supplier of the cords.

 

Also looking at the LS, thanks for all the posts above.

 

Carter

 

www.monicahopkinsphotography.com

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