regina_bekker Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Hello, I have 3 Canon L lenses - 16-35 2.8 , 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 . I am very happy with 24-70 and 70-200, but dissapointed by 16-35 2.8 L. It is very soft comparing to other two, especially wide open. Usually I am using apperture 2.8-4.0, and the quality of 16-35 just horrible. Should it be this way? Does everybody have this problem? Or it is some famous defect in this lens? Thanks Denis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolmingli Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Which body did you use it on? it maybe a bad copy, I had same problems with my first 16-35, the second one looks fine, if you don't need the extra stop, 17-40 is another sharp lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingedrabbit Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 How about an image for an example? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camilla Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Perhaps something is wrong, but it could also be that your are expecting too much from a wideangle zoom. I have the 16-35, and it is definitely softer than my Tamron 28-75/2.8, my Canon 70-200/2.8, not to mention my two Canon 50mm lenses. I tried several wideangle lenses, zooms and primes, and realised they were just never (at least not yet) going to be as sharp as longer lenses. Compared to the other wideangle options, I think the 16-35 is very good, but it's not ultra-sharp like the two other lenses you own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_french3 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I don't know the answer to your question, but I find qualitatively the results from my 70-200 2.8 are better than my 24-70 2.8, although most people regard the 24-70 as an excellent lens. I presume it's down to quality control. A bit annoying, given the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogbert Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I don't know the answer to your question either as I don't own this lens, but if the quality is just horrible as you put it there is probably someting wrong. For reference, a lot of my shots in my portfolio were shot with a Sigma 12-24 EX, which is a $600 lens and much wider fov than a 16mm lens. If you 16-35 is worse than that I think you have something to complain about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew robertson Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 You'll never find an ultrawide zoom as sharp as the 24-70 or 70-200 L lenses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photoreu Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 My 16-35 is very, very sharp. In fact, sharper and contrastier than the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS I borrow from time to time. I think it's a quality control issue. I've seen 70-200's that are awesome but the one I borrow just isnt that great. My 16-35 is as sharp as my 50 in the center... but there is a noticeable decrease towards the corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_yoder3 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Mine is pretty decent too. And I switched from Canon grudginly from Leica R so I don't say it lightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony_bichon Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 It is a fact of life that wide angle lenses, at largest aperture are soft! It's physics... try it at f/5.6 or even f/8... Actually check this links for more info: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/14-vs-16.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I have a 16-35mm. In the center at f2.8, it should be sharp. In the corners, probably a little soft (especially at the wide end). That is the way super wide zooms are, but the center should be sharp--it is an L lens. If yours isn't, you should return the lens to try another copy. Also, don't shoot brick walls and the like for tests, at least not just brick walls. Use for test subjects, whatever it is you intend to photograph with the lens--landscapes, people, etc. Evaluate what the lens does with "real" subjects, not just brick walls. By the way, who is Denis if you are Regina, or is it vice versa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogbert Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Is it possible to shoot photos of something other than a brick wall or test chart? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenPapai Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I have some basic 16-35 <a href="http://www.kenpapai.com/pro/lens_EF16_35tests.html"> tests here</a> with some 100% crops at the edges. Looks sharp! <p> -Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg M Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Hopefully this isn't something you've been putting up with for a year now and you can still send it to Canon for review. No way you pay that amount and just "live with it". If it is defective, Canon will either repair or replace it. Whether it's right or not that you have to send it in at this point is moot- this is a man made product and no man made product is 100% guaranteed. That's why Canon sells their lenses with a 1 year warranty- send it in and get it looked at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanellopoulos Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I have the 17-40 and I find it pretty sharp. If you use a proper shutter speed or tripod of course... In fact it is not easy to say if my 24/2.8 prime is any better at 24mm (which you all agreed is a sharp copy). However the 17-40 is not as sharp as my 50 f/1.4.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark u Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 You don't state which body you are using. It's fairly well documented that the 16-35 works less well at wide apertures on full frame digital compared with a film body at the corners and edges. However, it should be sharp at the centre, or when using a crop body. None of Canon's ultra wides are as sharp as the best third party glass, even stopped down a little. However, I've seen images that show some copies as being very soft, even in the centre. If yours is one of those, you should exchange it or have it repaired under warranty. I assume you still have your receipt and haven't tolerated this for the scant year that Canon offers as a warranty period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew robertson Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Reuben, your nose is growing. According to all available data, especially Canon's MTF charts, the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS blows the 16-35 away. Maybe the lens you borrow is defective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umd Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Get a <a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_zoom_01.html#AFS17-35ED">nikon 17-35/2.8</a> and use with an adapter, or with a cheap Nikon body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_chan4 Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Could also be an AF issue. Many people assumed AF would be accurate, but you could be amazed when trying manual focus with magnifier. The extra details are loss without precise focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_smith2 Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Canon Wide Angle primes and zooms are not in the same league as their medium and telephoto lenses - hence the numerous people who switch to exotic lenses with the FF DSLRS to get a sharp edge to edge wide angle photograph. If you have a 1.3 or 1.6 crop DSLR the edge softness is reduced by the cropping factor (hence some people rave over the canon wide angles, while others despair) So really depends on which body you are using the lens as to how bad you think the lens is. Mike Smith UK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayton_p._strickland1 Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Regina, If you are using a digital EOS camera there might be a compatability problem. When I first got mine I was very, very disappointed, but over time it seemed to actually get better and now is very sharp. The dealer suggested I send in the lens and the camera to have them "matched" to each other. Oh, the wonders of digital photography! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bojan_hohnjec1 Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I own ef 17-40 thankfuly I've had an opportunity to try 16-35 for a few days before buying it & IT SUCKS ! f2,8 aperture is just useless only center of the image is sharp while the rest of the picture is blured (body is 1dmk2) ,it gets better with f4 & excillent with f5,6.One would have to be uninformed or an idiot to buy this over 17-40 wich is an excillent lens for much less money.In my opinion there are only two pluses for 16-35:somewhat brighter than 17-40 when looked thru viewfinder & 1mm wider than 17-40 but if that is worth spending approximately $600 more than go for it.But remember f2,8 is USELESS ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regina_bekker Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 Thank you for your answers. I did some testing - shooting newspaper using 16-35, 24-70 and 70-200 on 2.9, 4, 5.6, 8, 22 appertures, and on 16mm, 24mm, 35mm, 70 mm, 135mm, and 200mm accordingly. 16-35 is very very soft on 2.8 comparing to 24-70 on the same 24 or 35mm. 16 mm is even worse. it is satisfactory only in the small circle of the centre. if you want to look at samples for comparison, I should show you corners or sides? 1:1 on 72 ppi? I found that there is a some kind of focusing problem also. Comparing to 24-70, my 16-35 is slower, and often doesn't focus on closer subjects - focus goes back. I use only 1 central focusing point, and then re-frame the picture after focusing. I never had this problem with 24-70. I have Canon 20D. I am thinking about sending it to Canon for check up and repair. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now