Beattie focusing screen for F100

[senthil_palaniappun]

Hello All,

 

I am thinking of getting a used manual Nikon 500mm f4 lens for a

probable African safari trip. I use F100 body.

 

I am apprehensive about manual focusing as I haven't done that

routinely in a while, esp for fast moving subjects. I was previously

using manual Canon AE-1 with split prism and matte screen. So I am

thinking of getting a Beattie Matte with grid and horizontal or

diagonal split image focusing screen. I read on their site

http://www.intenscreen.com/products_35mm-format_nikon.htm that

"Metering compensation may be required."

 

Has anyone used these screens on F100? If so, are these worth buying

and how effective are they for manual focusing? What about the meter

compensation?

 

Thanks,

Senthil

[SCL]

Never used one on my F100, but do use one on my MF Bronica. It does brighten things up, requires about 1/3 stop compensation. You might check into a Maxwell screen. A lot of users say that the contrast for focussing is much better than the Beattie screens.

 

Bill Maxwell,

Maxwell Precision Optics,

P.O. Box 33146,

Decatur, GA 30033-0146,

U.S.A.

 

Phone +1-404-244-0095

e-mail: maxwellprecisionoptics at toast dot net

[mike_grigsby]

My biggest problem with these screens on my Nikons is they vignette with wide angle lenses.

[joseph_smith3]

I use the same mf lens with my f100 usually with a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter. I replaced the original focusing screen with a Nikon Series E screen with the horizontal and vertical grid lines because of their help in assuring flat horizons and perfect verticals. It is plenty bright enough to allow for sharp and accurate focusing on non moving subjects or slow moving subjects even with the tcs and there is no exposure metering issues to deal with. I have not used the Beattie version of this grid screen. I checked out their web site and read the same comment as did you. Personally, w/o an explanation as to what that means and how compensation would be done or adjusted, I would not put one in my camera even if they gave it to me for free. Likewise, you seem to want one with the split image, which is in the dead center of the screen. I do not like this either in that the subject you want in sharp focus rarely will be in the dead center. This means you will have to focus and then recompose. I prefer doing both in one step which means I would get the screen w/o the split image. If your eyesight is good enough, you can focus accurately w/o a split image. (I used to own a Nikon camera with a split image and made the adjustment to one w/o it.) If you are expecting the screen to help you with fast moving subjects, I do not think it will. Only an AF-S lens will do that along with a gimbal head on a good tripod. What I do is to use my Kirk King Cobra gimbal head on my Gitzo 1325 tripod and mf the 500mm lens as best I can with moving subjects. I try and use my 300mm AF- S lens hand held and pan the faster moving subjects with Provia 400f film in a second camera body. Whatever you decide on, get it and test it out a few times before you go to Africa. Experiment at home, not on your trip. Take two camera bodies and two long lenses with you. You must have a back up system. Good luck. Joe Smith

[gan_esh]

I don't think there is any difference in brightness between the Beattie and Nikon focussing screen for bodies like the F100, f5, f6.

 

Most people I know usually get them for their Mamiya or Pentax 645 cameras.

[joseph_wisniewski]

I use a Beattie diagonal split with grid in my F100. I don't use any exposure compensation. The quick way to check is to compare a gray card reading on center weighted (meters off the screen from the prism) and spot (meters before the screen, via the AF sensors under teh mirror) and see if you get a noticible difference.

 

That's the part that's the pain, a screen that requires compensation only needs it on matrix and centerweight. You have to remove the compensation if you switch to spot.