Jump to content

Epson 1280 and UT2 inks: more issues


Recommended Posts

Big thanks to Steve Yeatts, Bob Michaels, Paul Sokal, and especially to Allan Chen for help

with figuring out various aspects of the 1280/UT2 setup.<p>

 

I'm using Ilford Smooth Pearl with the Roark workflow. The prints are getting pretty close

to how I want them to look, with one glaring exception: very black ("high density"?) areas

are punctuated every 1.5-2 centimeters (by eye) with horizontal lines of white dots.

Sometimes they are single lines<p>

 

...........................<br>

 

and sometimes they are double lines<p>

 

...........................<p>

...........................<p>

 

They seem to exist in lighter areas too, but they're much harder to see. Does anyone

know what this might be, and how I can deal with it? Thanks very much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're horizontal? Meaning they travel lengthwise?

 

They are _absolutely_ the "pizza wheel" paper rollers. I forgot to mention that they'll appear sometimes with glossy papers - sorry about that.

 

I can't seem to find the URL that shows how to take them out, but it's very simple. There are two screws holding the metal plate down in which the wheels are seated. One is on the left (while looking at the front of the printer), the other is on the right, under the print head. Just move that over. Then you kind of wiggle/pop the rollers out.

 

The only side-effect is that you might not be able to print really close to the edge on some of your prints. But I've gotten within 1" and it's okay. Borderless might be a problem.

 

allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Allan, I removed the pizza wheels, and the problem is resolved. I can't thank you enough.

 

Images are starting to look the way I want them to. I've still got a few questions.

 

1) What's the largest I can print on 8.5"x11" papers, non-borderless? (And why is it that I

can't print borderless on the Ilford Smooth Pearl papers?)

 

2) Would I be better off switching from Eboni to Photo Black?

 

I hope I'm not taxing anyone's patience ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p><i>1) What's the largest I can print on 8.5"x11" papers, non-borderless? (And why is it that I can't print borderless on the Ilford Smooth Pearl papers?)</i>

 

<p>You can certainly get to 8x10. I haven't ever tried printing bigger than that on letter sized paper. Messing around with Qimage (which lets me set it to whatever size, then it'll auto downsize to the max) gives me a maximum of 8.26x10.33.

 

<p>I assume there is something about photo quality film that can't handle bordless. The actual film stock is very thin - maybe that's why.

 

<p>There isn't any raeson why you couldn't try printing to the Ilford stock with a different media setting. The problem is that you want to minimize the amount of ink, as the paper can't handle a lot of it. You could do a LOT of testing and figure out if there is another media, with some heavy tweaking of the image, that will work.

 

<p>Or, you can do like I did and buy the 13x19 ilford stuff :-).

 

<p><i>2) Would I be better off switching from Eboni to Photo Black?</I>

 

<p>I see no reason to switch, personally. Eboni is more archival (I think - I honestly don't remember if the Photo black uses any dyes in it or not) and it gives me archival prints on matte, and I'm perfectly happy with my results on pearl and gloss if I want to go that route. Going glossy isn't going to be archival either way, so it makes sense for me to stick with Eboni for the archival option, then live with the limited paper options for glossy.

 

<p>If you want less expensive glossy stock, by the way, look for the Kirkland Glossy paper at Costco - the ones made in Switzerland. I believe that is Ilford smooth glossy. I think.

 

<p>allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will go to 13"x19" once I am sure that I'm happy with my process. Experimenting is

expensive enough on letter-size. :-) I will keep an eye out for the Kirkland papers.

 

I'm intrigued by your comment about the "film stock". What is the "film" involved here? I

don't know much about paper technology at all.

 

So if Eboni is more archival, and looks good on glossy papers, what's the point of Photo

Black?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I honestly have no idea what the _real_ "film" stock actually looks like. Ilford tell you to use that as the media setting solely to control the amount of ink hitting the paper. The paper itself is not _actually_ film stock. it's just the easiest way to control the amount of ink getting out.

 

Photo black is necessary if you want to print on more glossy papers. Eboni will work pretty much just with Ilford smooth pearl and gloss, I think (and Kirkland, since that's also Ilford).

 

allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>What do you mean by "mfg. papers"? The eboni ink will work with a large number of matte papers, and will work with some glossy papers as well (more than I thought, actually).

 

<p>now that I read it some more, the difference is actually the depth of black. Eboni and photo black can print on the same glossy papers, but you'll get deeper blacks with the Photo black ink. However, note that you can't print on matte with the photo black, which means you won't ever have the archival option.

 

<p>A list of the papers that will work with Eboni is at <a href="http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/UT2-curves.html">Paul Roark's page</a>. Those are the papers for which he has built custom curves. However, note that the Ilford Smooth curve will work pretty well (but not perfectly) with the Kirkland glossy paper.

 

<p>allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Huh -- so I can trade off: eschew sepia, but get protection and anti-bronzing "for free".

At the cost of switching from the regular UT2 cart to one with GLOP in the yellow position.

 

That's an interesting option. Maybe I'll do that when this cart runs out. I don't know yet

how I'd feel about giving up the ability to print sepia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...