Super Speed Graphic Help!

[red_jenny]

Just got my hands on a Super Speed Graphic with 135mm Optar. The

camera is dirtier than I expected, and I'm not so sure how the

rangefinder thingy on the top is used, or the little & very dirty

rangefinder hole next to the parallax scale (which is too a mystery

to me and doesn't want to stand up) or the two pieces of wood in the

battery compartment. I guess I figured out to cock the shutter you

have turn the lens thingy, and the speeds SOUND ok on all settings.

But the biggest worry I have is about the millions of tiny bubbles

along the inside of the optar lens -- problem? Should I return it?

 

Tips, info would be appreciated. And yes I have checked graflex.org

too.

[jeff bishop]

Tiny bubbles? I've no idea of what that might be, and I'm still trying to figure out the battery compartment; is that in the flash?

 

It isn't uncommon to come across dirty cameras; and that's not a good thing. If it were cheap I might try to figure out what you mean by bubbles and clean it up. If you paid the full premium price I'd return it.

 

I would expect full price to be in good clean operational condition (as in ready to use).

[beepy]

Bubbles?

<p>

Can you send a picture of that?

<p>

I have exact same config - but mostly ground glass focus. I haven't noticed

any bubbles on my Optar but you have me worried...

[red_jenny]

I guess it is technically ready to use -- just dirty.

THe shutter works, there no fungus on the lens, the focussing mechanism works, the back is springy. What else is there?

 

Anyway, whatever it is I'm stuck with it. I wish there was a manual or guide (hint hint) on how to go about cleaning this thing.

 

Tell me, when I change the time setting on the lens, it is supposed to make the screetching "timer" sound as I am turning the knob? Like when I go from 1/2 sec to 1/4 I hear a short whirrrr. Same the other way too. I've set it on X not M if that makes a difference...

[wilbur_wong]

I've never handled this camera, but I think the wooden fillers are dummies for batteries for a "projection light" through the rangefinder to the subject, for night time focusing. Line up the two dots on your subject and you are in focus.

[alec1]

If you say you don't know how the rangerfinder works after going to Graflex.org, then you simply don't know how to use that site. I suggest you revisit it, since everything you've asked is answered there, in great detail. There's also a Helpboard there which you haven't visited [or read] either.

 

Forget the darned bubbles. Old lenses of that period had lots of them. It was a sign of good glass.

[glenn_thoreson]

The wood blocks are just fillers. I can't remember the reason for them but if not using batteries, it's important to leave them in there. If the battery door is there, you are very lucky. That's the first thing to be lost. Be very gentle with that shutter. They are pretty easy to break and may not be repairable. Look at southbristolviews.com to see if Rich has an online manual. Scroll down the menu on the left till you see the Graflex tab.

[dan_fromm1]

If the bubbles are on the edge of the glass, they're caused by the paint used to blacken the edges separating from the glass. Unsightly, harmless except to resale value, called Schneideritis because older Schneider lenses are prone to it. In my experience, Boyer lenses have it worse.

 

It sounds like you have the dread 1/1000 shutter. Be very careful with it. Go to www.graflex.org and ask how best not to break it.

[rachel_kinoshita]

I have the same camera as well. The batteries are for the solenoid shutter release. There's a little button on the left hand side, by the leather handle. The batteries can be purchased from Radio Shack or Midwest Photo Exchange. They're the 22.5V batteries and you need two of them. They run about $14-$15 for the pair. When you look through the rangefinder, do you see the dual image? If not, it's possible the mirror has come loose, needs a good cleaning or needs to be replaced.

 

Thanks,

Rachel

[mikem77]

If there are lots of bubbles in the glass, then I would say that is lens seperation. If it is just on the outer edge, the lens will perform just fine. If they are all over, sharpness and contrast may be affected.

[beepy]

<blockquote>

If they are all over, sharpness and contrast may be affected.

</blockquote>

An Ur-Holga.

<p>

(sorry - couldn't resist.)

[Troll]

If you can return the camera, then do so.

[jim_rhoades]

The blocks of wood are to keep spring tension on the battery door. If you remove the wood, without batteries, the door will fall off and be lost forever.

 

The bubbles are a sign of good glass. It's a dinosaur thing.

[kasigi]

The optar elements are pretty much a dime a dozen. If your shutter is working and you are worried about the glass of the lens itself, hop on e-bay and try to find an optar in a dead shutter. Scavenge the elements and replace the bubbly ones if you find them objectionable. There are a lot more dead shutters floating around than bad glass, so finding a spare pair of lens elements shouldn't be more than a few dollars.

[d._kevin_gibson]

you can see (the fairly limited) manual here

 

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/supergraphic/supergraphic.html

 

also info at cameraquest

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/supergrp.htm