FM3a or F3 fo my purposes?

[paul_loader]

A common question I know so sorry if it is repetitious. To give some

context, my shooting is amateur and primarily capturing my daughter

growing up.

 

I do not play with sophisticated light set-ups or anything

professional in my approach in my view. I just try to use a bit of

patience and care on ostensibly natural light shots with a bit of

flash at times. Some portraiture and some simply of a little one in

their environment, you know the kind of thing, expressions, clothes,

posting letters, riding the bike and so on. My daughter is nearly

six now.

 

I have had to take things slowly with equipment. My first proper

camera was my used-F90X and new 85mm 1.8AF-D about three years ago.

Something with a good viewfinder and AF given that small children

don't stay still. I later added a 50mm 1.8AF-D and an SB-28. I never

quite grew into the F90X and I use it now for movement situations

and action events. At the weekend it was in action for indoor flash

shots and outdoor garden shots of a birthday party we went to for

one of my daughter's classmates. Also used was the camera I bought

about about a year ago, my FM2N. This sees most use actually. Like

many, I have unexpectedly grown into the hands-on experience of this

kind of beast finding it more satisfying. I use this with classic

50mm 1.8 Ai and 105mm 2.5 Ai'd PC with scalloped focus ring.

 

However, since the FM2N is limited with flash and AE would still be

handy at times I spontaneously bought a new FM3a last weekend at an

exceptional price for the UK, GBP425. I have 30 days in which to

return it without quibble and I am seriously thinking about it. I

don't know why but my subconscious can't get comfortable, it feels

too frivolous, too "me too" and much as I would like one not the

smart choice when I have to be spend wisely.

 

Alternatively for GBP300 I could have bought an F3HP which looked to

be in pretty good nick, much better than many examples I see. Yes I

know the arguments, the limited flash synch speed and need for an

AS17, the dim LCD readout, the poor backlight button, the age, all

of which suggests the FM3a is a smart choice. However, F3 users

continuously talk about it being the most satisfying camera to

handle and shoot with and I think this is at the heart of my

dilemma. Is the tactile enjoyment of an F3HP the indefinable

something that just makes one want to pick up a camera and fire that

shutter, is it simply past it's sell-by date now? Are the FM3a's

additional tricks genuinely worthwhile over my FM2N, are they

unecessary for my use. Should I ignore both.

 

My technical area of confusion is regarding flash on my FM2N which I

still haven't got to grips with, I perpetually struggle to

understand if it's immensely difficult without TTL or in fact pretty

simple with a little practise and experience. Is it a bit like

assuming manual focusing is difficult until one discovers zone

focusing and prefocusing for example?

 

My other option of course is to simply add a 28m or 35mm to either

or both of my existing bodies which is planned later if not now.

 

Ultimately, only I can solve this one but I would appreciate any

thoughts that might help me clear my head on what decisions to take.

 

Thanks in anticipation

Paul

[mark.brennan]

Hi Paul -

 

I enjoyed your post and wanted to reply. Unfortunately I won't be able to provide as much substantive help as others here, but still I wanted to chime in.

 

I have the FM2n and love it. Of course, the FM3a is the latest and greatest model in this distinguished lineage, but I don't see that it adds a whole lot over the FM2n and its price is pretty dear.

 

I don't do any flash photography. I also spend a lot of time photographing my 20 month old daughter, and also my wife and any friends who happen to be around. I'm also trying to do more street photography.

 

For all of these purposes, the FM2 seems like the best choice.

 

What attracts me to the F3HP is its great viewfinder and high eyepoint. I wear glasses but don't need them to shoot. When shooting on the street I might have sunglasses on, but have gotten used to shooting in sunglasses w/ the FM2. I don't really need to see the settings in the finder and the scene comes through bright enough. I haven't tried an F3HP yet, but expect it'll be quite a joy to shoot with.

 

Aside from price, my one hesitation w/ the F3HP is its size and weight for the kind of shooting I'm doing - street.

 

I'm hopeful you'll get some better feedback on your specific questions.

 

regards,

-Mark

[ky2]

My .02:

 

Paul, the Fm3a is a very nice camera. However, it's major advantages over the Fm2N are few, and the most notable one is flash capability. It's a more recent model, indicating it would be supported for years to come, but I always took it to be a Fm2N relative. The F3Hp however, is different. I myself prefer match-needle meters, and the smaller size of Fm3A always appealed more to me. Yes, the film drive mechanism is better on the F3, and so is the viewfinder, but since I have good eyesight (knock x3), Im still very comfortable with the Fm3A's viewfinder.

 

I'd say-- if flash is bothering you on the Fm2N, get the Fm3A. Don't bother with the F3, you'll have a lot of quirks to bother with, and although it's a great camera, you're still getting it used, and some of these bodies were heavily used. If you think you can tackle flash with your Fm2N (and why not? just get a good book and experiment!), then don't buy either. Treat yourself to a nice lens instead.

[loreneidahl]

I have owned a FM2n and an N90s and I currently own a large number of F3Hp's (4).

 

The strong points of the FM3A ( they share same body types) are the flash and the AE. The Fm3a is a great camera and it will allow you to take technically correct shots. It will also allow you to be creative.

 

Negaitve Points:

 

There isnt alot wrong with the FM3A.

 

 

The F3 has a number of issues regarding flash , none that are show stoppers however they do exist. A few minor issues such a viewfinder light is a pain sometimes.

 

When I used to shoot with my N90S the F3 was my complimentary camera. The F3 was not backup since the F3 did many things that the N90x even with the Databack and the MB-10 could only dream of.

 

For one the metering on the F3 is 80/20 as opposed to 60/40 on the Fm3a or N90x/s in CW mode. This is actually a big deal to me and how I shoot. I shoot action ( extreme sports and rock concerts and my kids). As a result I always used my F3 in lighting conditions that would fool the metering of the N90s.

 

I used the N90s for those situations when I needed flash and I needed it now and it had better be more than right , and oh by the way the light is changing every second. The N90s/x is great at this.

 

To me the N90s and the Fm2n were like basic cameras that got the job done very well - not a lot to complain about but not alot to make you grab them first or to carry them wherever you go. They were in some respects sterile. Never a complaint , but never alot of passion about using the tool either.

 

The F3 is my buddy, we have had a few fights, given each other a few black eyes. But the F3 has never let me down and always live up to the promise attached to the name of F3.

 

(When I bought the N90s/databack/mb-10 I sold a F3/MD4 to finance the sale. I always regretted it. It was the only F3 I had and I missed it)

 

 

I have since sold the FM2n and the N90s and am a heavy digital user, but the F3's are multiplying in my camera closet. I always take the F3's with me on assingment to complement my D2h's ( not back them up - I have backup D2h's)

 

Yes - the tactile response of an F3 is something that sets the F3 apart. It is hard to explain. But not hard to appreciate.

 

Take an F3 for a spin on trial.

 

My suggestion - Buy an F3HP as a shooter, use the N90x for flash shots that you want to get right but dont want to spend time thinking about. The n90X/s is excellant at this. The F3 will also do flash m, but you need to think first.

[loreneidahl]

Forgot to add:

 

The best camera in the world is the one that you reach for to take the shot.

 

It may the the most bells and whistles and it may give you great images, but if you dont like using it it wont get used.

 

So which camera is better a Holga ( held together with tape) that you use every day and you know what to expect from it; -- OR -- the F6 you bought but dint use because it doenst feel right in you hands or are fearfull of using for damage?

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

For manual focus I like the FM/FE bodies best. I also picked up a F3 just because everyone said it was so great: I don't like it and it sits on the shelf. I prefer the lighter/smaller bodies, the larger viewfinder and the manual meter exposure viewfinder indications. If it's the price of the FM3a that's bothering you, see if you can return/exchange it for a used FE2. That's 98% of a FM3a at 1/2 the price.

[mark.brennan]

Loren -

 

Nice to hear your feedback on the F3. Do you think it's too heavy to do street shooting? In some ways the FM2 seems more appropriate - lighter, smaller.

thanks,

-Mark

[richard_cochran]

The F3HP's finder is a joy. I wear glasses, and this factor

is the overriding thing that makes me pick up the F3 over

the FM2n for most shooting.

<p>

The F3's far superior build quality also makes it a tactile

pleasure to use.

<p>

When used without a motor, the F3 is only

a little bit bigger than an FM series camera, hardly noticable,

and the difference almost vanishes into the noise with a

reasonable sized lens. I've closed my eyes and had a friend

hand me both cameras by their straps, both with the same lens,

and I can't feel the difference in their weight when I try. With

a motor, the F3 is noticably heavier.

<p>

Non-TTL flash is reasonably simple if you've got an auto flash

(Sunpak 383, Vivitar 283, or similar). Just set the flash to auto

and set the lens aperture to the aperture suggested by the

flash. That covers it for most situations.

<p>

The F3 supports TTL with the proper adapter or with

an older flash designed for the F3. I have both an F3 and an

FM2n, and I find that, for flash work, the fact that the FM2n's

shoe is directly over the lens makes it a better flash camera

than the F3, even though I can do TTL with the F3. I don't like

the way the F3's offset flash shoe causes shadows to be cast to the

side (a bracket could solve this).

<p>

One concrete advantage the FM2n/FM3a cameras will have over

the F3 is the faster sync speed, which is a definite help in

daylight fill flash situations, but mostly irrelevant in other

situations.

<p>

The FM3a has the nicest and most intuitive metering display

Nikon ever developed, IMO (it shares this display with the

EL, ELW, EL2, FE, and FE2). The FM/FM2n's LEDs are still

better for low-light use, though.

<p>

The F3's MD-4 is MUCH nicer than the FM3a's MD-12, if motorized

shooting is something you're interested in. The F3/MD-4 is

faster, quieter, and much less jam-prone.

<p>

I'm not sure what I'd do in your situation. I hope these

somewhat random ramblings help in sorting out the issues.

[paul_loader]

Many thanks for the replies so far. As I said at the beginning, I'm not expecting anyone to solve the dilemma I seem to be putting myself through, I know that only I can do that. I do appreciate the diversity of opinion though.

 

I do wear glasses by the way and simply put contacts in whenever I am going to shoot with the FM2N which is why I don't major on the viewfinder. Having said that, the eye relief of the F90X was its biggest attraction when I bought it and I know I just don't need what an F100, F5 or F6 offers. I guess I just want to connect with my picture taking which I know will resonate as a comment with a lot of people and that it's about finding the tool you do this best with combined with it needing to have the right functionality. This latter part is the hard part - sorting what is genuinely useful from that which we can do ourselves with knowledge, skill and epxerience. I don't know about you guys but I often feel ashamed that I need any functionality at all when I consider what was achieved in the early part of the 20th century with limited equipment.

 

Incidentally, the search for 'connection' took me back to the type of camera I never thought I would want to see again. I confess that I gave away a Pentax ME Super a few years back finding it impossible to get on with, I grew to hate the fangled split-prism focusing thingie and limited functions. Oh the irony! Based on ignorance of course but then I am talking about my late teens to early twenties and I was of an age where I was too busy rushing around going nowhere fast, following fads, fashions and technology. Youth wasted on the young and all that.

 

I am picking up the FM3a daily without loading film in case I do return it and I have to say the bright viewfinder is an improvement, the clarity of the aperture window is much better, needle matching looks like it is a great tool(lack of illumination notwithstanding) and not having to look East, West and North as it were which you have to do with the FM2N seems an improvement. Subtle things which are growing on me with each little play, Perhaps I am simply feeling unfaithful to the FM2N as I have been growing so attached to it over the past few months. I am sure if it had TTL it would not have occurred to me to consider an FM3a. As suggested, playing with flash is called for I think.

 

I will carry on playing with the FM3a and I will undoubtedly go and pick up the F3 again at the weekend and just feel whether I believe it will be a more tactile experience or whether to leave both alone at the moment.

 

The F90X will certainly stay for the foreseeable future as I just detest the letterbox viewfinder on the digital Nikons and many other cameras too. I really need to get that Nikon scanner I have promised myself for so long too so that I can commit precious slides to software and back them up and also share my pics. Perhaps that is where my funds should go.

 

Oh dear, I am in danger of sounding really confused. It's not quite like that. I think we all grow bit by bit with our picture taking and as we move away from the acquisition of the latest and greatest it can be quite testing to work out what serves us best and what inspires us.

 

It's an interesting pastime.

 

Paul

[lee hamiel]

Paul:

 

Good question

 

Having been an F3 user for many years I was going to do a knee-jerk reaction & say go for the F3 - however - I have no experience with the FM3a - I looked around at the specs & I must say it looks like a great camera.

 

I've had at least 4 F3's along with an FE & FM & the build quality of the F3 was always way better - tough choice - the match needle metering does appeal to me though - a lot depends on your long term plans as others have said - I don't know if you can replace the screens on the FM3a but I have always liked being able to totally clean my bodies.

 

Good Luck

[loreneidahl]

The F3 has a 100% viewfinder. The N90x and FM3A do not.

 

What you see on the viewfinder in the F3 is what show up on film.

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

I have never found a 100% viewfinder an advantage for any of the shooting I do. Unless you do your own printing the negative is always cropped when you have prints made. If you shoot slides the mount covers part of the image.

[fourfa]

only if you have the slides mounted (I never do)

 

though some consumer scanners have the same problem - obscuring the very edges of the frame

[plasma181]

Paul: I own an FM3a and most of the pictures in my portfolio were taken with it. Yes, I wish it had a spot meter and shutter priority, but it doesn't. The fact is, I don't let these limitations stop me. I just pick it up and I take pictures. It sounds like you are very good with manual focus, so I think it will serve you well. I have not owned your other cameras, so I can't offer any advice there.<div></div>

[alan_chan4]

The truth is, you lust for the F3 Paul. Go get one and see for yourself. Your mind will never rest until you do so, even though you might not like it eventually.

[Jim_Tardio]

The little button on the lens mount that reduces the flash output by 1 stop is reason enough to choose the FM3a.

<p>

A fine, simple camera with just the right amount of automation.

[Robert_Lai]

I've had an F3 for over 22 years, so my comments may be quite biased, but I will try to be as objective as I can. In reading over your initial post, it seems that flash is the issue that is bothering you with the FM2n. In some respects, the FM2n has more flexibility with flash as you can synchronize it at up to 1/250 shutter speed, while the F3 will limit you to a 1/80 shutter speed. So, you have 1.5 more stops to play with, which may be important if you're attempting fill flash in the daytime. I have only held the FM3a a few times in the store, and it's a wonderful camera.<p>My advice to you is not to get either the FM3a or the F3 cameras. You really need to fully utilize the FM2n that you have at the present. With respect to your flash question, there are basically 3 methods that you can use for determining flash exposure these days. The first method is the oldest - guide numbers (GN). Back in the days when flash bulbs were used, they put out a fixed amount of light. You used the guide number system to determine exposures. The advantage - almost infallably correct exposures. The disadvantage - math in your head! To determine your shooting aperture, divide the guide number by your focus distance. For example, if your flash has a GN of 40 (in feet), and your subject is 5 feet away, then your aperture is 40/5 = 8. Set your aperture to f/8 and fire. If you're in daylight, then adjust your daylight exposure so that your aperture is f/8, and you'll have balanced illumination for the fill. While this method may seem cumbersome, it's actually not. For one, virtually all flash units have a calculator dial on the top to do the math for you. Second, it actually makes shooting very quick. Set the flash unit to Manual, which ensures that it will give a maximum power flash. In the example above, set your focus ring to 5 feet, and chase after your daughter. Once she's in focus, fire away, and you're assured a perfect exposure every time.<p>The second method is to use the metering eye built into almost all flash units. The Nikon units commonly give you two apertures to use, often labelled A1/A2. Set your aperture ring to one of these numbers, slide the switch to A1 or A2, and fire away. As long as you're within the maximum range of the flash, the exposure should be correct. You can also test fire the flash, and it will light up a red LED if you're out of range.<p>The last method is the only one unavailable to you on the FM2n - TTL autoflash. This relies upon the metering cell in the camera reading the light reflected off the film surface during the flash exposure. When enough light has accumulated for the correct exposure, the camera/flash electronics quench the flash. If you use this in daylight, you automatically get balanced fill/daylight exposure with the F3. With the FM3a, there may be a way to get reduced flash output, as another poster stated above. While on the surface, this may be the most attractive option, I find that it's really useful only when performing macro photography. There, the long lens extensions cause light falloff. Thus, f/8 may effectively be f/22, and you can't use the manual calculations to obtain correct exposure. Unless you plan to perform a lot of macro photography, the TTL autoflash feature is not necessary.<p>I would suggest that you spend a few rolls of film and use your flash unit to explore what it can give you on the FM2n. Incidentally, when I take portraits outdoors, I almost always have the flash on. Especially when there's sunlight out, fill flash reduces the contrast ratio to something that slide film can accomodate, and eliminates ugly shadows under the eyebrows and nose.<p>I know this is probably the most unpalatable advice, as Nikon Acquisition Syndrome (NAS) is so tempting and attractive (I KNOW whereof I speak). However, better results ensue from the use of brain power rather than purchasing power! Best of luck on your photographic endeavours.

[david_h._hartman]

Paul,<br>

<br>

You are thinking too hard, worrying too much. The FM3a is a fine

camera for your purpose. Its easily the best choice for

flash. I prefer the FM2n in the evening when I do not use flash

because of its ruby red LED light meter display. Its

so easy to use. The F3 is fine camera also but has some

annoyances with annoyance with TTL flash and is very limited as

far as daylight fill flash. It does feel wonderful in the hands

but for TTL flash excepting macro its not a top choice.<br>

<br>

The FM2n does not offer TTL flash so its the last of the

three that Ill choose if flash is anticipated. The FM3a

definitely has more to offer than the FM2n except as noted above.<br>

<br>

I dont own a Nikon FM3a but rather several FE2(s) the

camera the FM3a is based on. Nikon misnamed the FM3a for

marketing reasons. It should have been called the F E 3. I also

own two FM2n and an F3 which I bought primarily for macro with

center-weighted flash and the DW-4, 6x finder.<br>

<br>

As far as motivation to take photographs, your family, your

travels, curiosity, love of beauty, any of these is enough. A

camera is necessary to take these photos but it need not be the

motivation. If the camera works well in your hands with your

methods thats all thats important.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<br>

<br>

PS: PHOTO.NET had a problem with my input? How utterly stupid! I

meant the spelling I used for the name Nikon could have and

should have used for the FM3a. I wonder if I can use the word

cannon, a type of artillery or Cannon? I better not comment further

or...

[rosedoodle]

I think mostly what can be said has been, but I can offer my own experience. I, too, have

only used the FM3a. My first SLR. I got it new a little over a year ago and what I know I

taught myself with books and perusing this forum. I was seriously considering getting a

good used manual camera, but since I know diddly about camera repair and don't live near

enough to a big city where I could get one repaired easily, I settled on a new one, just for a

little assurance, I suppose.

 

I find this camera inspiring. I have a very good P & S camera, but somehow the auto-

everything doesn't do it for me. Though I have to say the quality of the pictures have been

mostly outstanding, and it did make me want to actually learn how to take it further. I

only recently got a Promaster 5400 flash, because I wanted to be prepared for a trip to San

Francisco for my son?s graduation and I wanted to mostly use the FM3a. I was worried

about that flash for no reason in particular ( maybe because I was had a lot of trouble

grasping the ?manual?), but I have been happy with the results all around so far. I keep it

on AE for now, but I?ve gotten pretty fast at focusing and so forth. I?ll graduate to figuring

exposure myself when I?m comfortable with the rest, hopefully before the battery dies...

This camera already feels like an old friend and it begs me to bring it with me everywhere I

can. I love the way it feels and operates. I do wear glasses, and so I use the DK3 rubber

cup, which helps. I don?t feel the need for a motor drive, since nothing I do requires it. I

use much less film, too... Wait, the only time I have wished for a motor drive was while

observing thunderstorms. Capturing lightning would be fun... On film, of course!

A friend of mine is a professional and loves his F3HP?s, and so encouraged me to get this

camera, too. They look so similar, really.

 

My $.02

[paul_loader]

Many, many thanks to all who have posted. This is precisely the kind of diversity of opinion I was hoping for and I have to say I was not expecting so many comments. It is all truly helpful and no viewpoint is wrong. All comments are equally valid. It is good to know what others have experienced and how you approach things. Spot on comments from those focusing in on my flash confusion and I am really indebted for the technical advice.

 

I know what has to be done. I really like the look of the FM3a and I will have one. Just,not yet, it has to go back. Quite simply, I am not ready yet. I will succumb to using its TTL and flash compensation and this is wrong for my development, it is precisely what I don't want. It is so natural for me to set aperture and shutter now that I like working manual. Even with the FM3a I know I would work manual.

 

So, I have to work through and become comfortable with GN and manual flash first and then it will be time to treat myself. I will probably not look back once I start using an FM3a and working with TTL but I have to earn this as it were, otherwise it feels like spoiled kid and acquisition syndrome rather than making life easier. I want it to be a conscious decision from a position of knowledge and experience.

 

Incidentally I was set to look for a good, used FE2 until I called Gray's of Westminster to learn they don't touch them as they are no longer fully supported. This stopped me in my tracks and I was very diappointed. For Gray's to take this stance it is significant and alas I felt I had to take this seriously.

 

Spot on about F3 lust, I think I just need to get and use one, perhaps with the help of an F3 owner in Surrey, UK or S.W. London rather than buying one.

 

What I really need to do I think is a mix of the following: carry on the learning path I am on; continue to enjoy picking up the FM2N; shoot more film, shoot more film [repeat ad infinitum!]; add a 28mm or 35mm lens to allow me to add a different type of shot with my daughter - more of the environment as it were (gut feel is that this will also allow prefocusing given that subject distance will be a bit longer relatively and don't plan tight shorts distorting facial features); spend more time in the flash section of the forum, finally get that scanner and post some pics.

 

So, probably scanner first short-term, smaller flash than my SB28 to suit the FM2N and then lens. A 35mm 1.4 Ai appeals greatly although I have read quite a few posts that a 28mm 2.8 is amongst if not the highest quality semi-wide manual to go for.

 

On the issue of 100% viewfinders I recall reading an awful lot on this a couple of years back and I was surprised just how much divided opinion there was on its importance. This embraced the obvious advantage, the compromises of development, cropping and slide mounting arguiing i defeated the object, the view that a little extra that you didn't see could actually help in giving a bit of cropping to play with if necessary, the view that if you were bothered you needed to crop (and enlarge) then go medium format or tighter grain or Leica etc,. I figured for my kind of shooting it should not be a priority. If I like a shot I have taken then I don't hesitate to crop and enlarge for a 5" x 5" frame for exmaple. So, whilst the perfectionist in me was tempted to go the 100% vf route I moved my mind away from it.

 

Thanks again everyone.

 

Paul

[paul_loader]

Oh dear, apologies for the typos, I thought I had caught them all before posting. 'Tight shorts' are not on the agenda by the way!

 

Paul

[john_newell2]

I have owned a couple of F3s and still own one. I love the camera, but the reason I don't reach for it more is that in my opinion the meter display in the viewfinder is poorly suited for manual exposure control. The LCD is relatively hard to see in the first place, and the convention of displaying the + and - signs together to indicate a "matched" reading makes operation slower for me than the F2AS and FM2n that flank the F3 on the shelf.

[Robert_Lai]

Support for the FE2 is non-existant at Nikon. If it fails, especially on a circuit board, then there is no way to revive it. However, there are many parts shared in common amongst these cameras. For example, the rewind knob of the EM, FG, FG-20, FM, FE, FM2n, FE2, FM3a all appear to be identical. So, if you and your repair person are determined enough, you could probably fix a FE2. However, the process is easier with recently discontinued models such as the FM2n and F3. They are both very rugged cameras capable of decades of hard use.<p>I do applaud you for your willingness to tough it out learning flash via the GN route. I often still use it, even though I have TTL flash control available. TTL is like any other light meter - it can be fooled by excessively light or dark subjects. If you wish to learn more about flash and ambient exposures, and combining the two, you may even consider devoting some money to a nice incident light/reflected light/flash meter such as the Gossen Lunasix F (Luna-Pro F in the USA). It's a bit on the large side, but very accurate and sensitive. There are some smaller ones from Sekonic that do the same thing. With one of these, you can obtain some manual flash units very inexpensively, and learn the joys of lighting with multiple units. You will quickly get a feel for lighting ratios.<p>As for another lens, I would suggest that you consider the 35mm f/1.4. It is an outstanding lens in all respects. The 28mm f/2.8 AIS is also superb, but primarily when you're up close. The wide angle look may take some time to get used to, and the 35mm is easier to make the transition to.

[ShunCheung]

As we have discussed many times, for anything whose current value is below $300, unless it is a simple fix, repair is essentially a non-issue because replacement is usually cheaper. For anything in the FM/FE family, if broken, the only one that maybe worthwhile to fix is the current FM3a. The same applies to the N8008, N90/N90s, N80 ....

[paul_loader]

Thanks very much Robert.

 

I appreciate the lens comment, I need to look out for examples of what can be captured with portraits/children from a 28mm or 35mm.

 

I have a lightmeter, a Polaris with both incident/reflective light and flash. I'm okay with natural light with it but, surprise-surprise, I haven't mastered flash with it, back to the learning block I seem to have with flash.

 

I think it's the old story in life between hands-on and books. You know, the SB28 manual is packed, I have no end of flash information in photography books including one dedicated to flash , however I worked out a while ago that this style of learning for this particular topic does not work for me. For many, myself included, learning to play a musical instrument from books and manuals is not realistic. You need hands-on guidance. Similarly, I know that the difference between someone learning a martial arts form from reading material and my teaching them is a very different experience. You need that practical interaction.

 

What I really need is to hook up with someone who can guide me through flash properly. Possibly a workshop, perhaps just a wise old head prepared to spare a little time. Not a full blown course, just exposure (no pun intended) to someone who really understands it. Photography can be a bit solitary of course and whenever I have contacted local clubs they tell me they get together for slide shows and competitions but are not really structured to learn from each other.

 

Anyway, this is a little different from my original topic. I continue to appreciate the FM3a more as I pick it up briefly each morning and evening. The match needle metering is working its way into my heart very quickly, particularly on manual plus the bright viewfinder. AE, TTL and flash compensation would be appreciated over time. DX is trivia for me personally, I don't load huge volume of film on the run, understandable if it is significant for others. It is clearly a good camera and the improvements over the FM2N look worthwhile for the two to compliment each other.

 

My next step will come down to the tactile feeling, value for money, metering considerations and viewfinders of the FM3a and F3HP respectively plus the question of support these days for an F3. I now understand why the dream camera for a lot of people would be the F3HP body and viewfinder with the FM3a features and functionality. What a camera that would be and a shame that I guess it is highly unlikely to see the light of day.

 

Paul