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How to remove step-down ring from Hassy 50 FLE?


wayne_haas

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Is there a special trick to removing the B70 to B60 step-down adapter

that comes with the 50 FLE?

 

I tried a search on Google and Photo.net and came up with nada.

Suprisingly, I remember reading a thread a while ago that outlined a

variety of possible methods, but for the life of me I cannot find it

now. Anyway, the bloody thing has been on the lens since last spring

and is locked-in solid.

 

I'm thinking of picking up a lens wrench, but would there be any risk

of cracking/breaking the mount if I torque on it too much?

 

One last question -- sort of a survey -- does anyone regard the

bayonet filter mount idea to be somewhat of an abortion in practice (I

am aware this system was intended to facilitate quick mounting/removal

of filters; but in practice it is none too secure -- somewhat ironic,

since the adapter has the opposite problem)?

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Except for the cost, I think the bayonet filters and hoods are a great idea. I'm a lot more comfortable attaching a $250 polarizer with 1/4 turn that locks than starting a thread straight and making several turns. I tend to get fewer fingerprints that way too.

 

By the way, you could use a block of wood to press and turn, to save wear and tear on your fingers if it is really too tight.

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Thank you everybody, with some work I finally removed it. Never thought of rotating it left since I assumed that would just tighten it further :-)

 

One thing I found is that once the adapter is loosened, it will rotate to the right until it reaches a stop. At that point I found that it wouldn't just lift off. Then I realized that the adapter has to be moved only until its mounting flanges match the open areas on the filter mount of the lens. The trick is to find that 'sweet spot'.

 

What seems to work well is to move the adapter completely to the right, and then attach a Bay 60 lens cover and tighten it without allowing the adapter to move. Since the lens cover tightens to the left, the lens cover provides a good grip that facilitates not only turning the adapter to the left, but also in lifting it up. Move the adapter incrementally to the left slowly, lift at each small increment, and eventually one will hit the spot where the filter mounting flanges on the lens are open. The process takes a bit of patience and practice, but once mastered it works fairly quickly.

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I just 'discovered' the instructions that came with the adapter while looking for a Bay 70 lens cap, and it actually recommends attaching a Bay 60 lens cap to the adapter when attaching or removing it. Goes to show that one should read always read the manual -- excepting, however, in this instance the instructions don't provide any tips, let alone details, in how to actually remove the adapter.

 

Edward: I actually find the bayonet mount of the lens hoods to be an excellent idea. Conversely, while I do appreciate that the filter bayonet mount eradicates the problem of cross-threading, some filters fit rather loosely even when new. I know that there is a fix to the latter, but the inconsistency in fit can be mildly irritating at times. Probably the main thing I don't appreciate about the mount is that it is proprietary, which results in the filters costing 2-3+ times more than similarly sized thread-mount filters of otherwise like quality.

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When I said "to the left," I meant with the lens facing you, just like a filter thread. Sorry, I should have been more specific. I presumed you remembered how you put it on, and should remove it in the opposite direction. It sounds like you pushed the adapter completely past the stop pin. You got lucky!

 

The bayonet on a filter depends on the slit in the lugs to keep it tight. The lug rides up over a lump in the lens ring to hold it in place. With use, the slit widens and the filter gets loose.

 

You can tighten the fit by carefully squeezing the slit on the filter lugs tighter. Don't bend the lug in or out of the circle, just toward the front of the filter. I use a pair of pliers with plastic jaw liners.

 

Think twice, bend once! Don't ask to borrow a lens.

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Edward,

 

If I got 'lucky', immediately thereafter I experienced the reverse. The reason the adapter needed to come off is because I needed to check out a Bay 70 filter that I recently acquired. The filter was somewhat tight going on but was manageable -- but after I took it off and repeated the process a few times it became even stiffer. Great I thought -- and for reasons unknown I then decided to attach a lens cap to the front of the filter. Well the cap went on fine but then refused to come off; I cursed a blue streak; managed to remove the filter from the lens, and decided to return the bastard filter from hell.

 

But there remained the matter of getting the cap off the filter. After what seemed a long, fruitless struggle, I borrowed a couple small strap wrenches from a neighbor and tried using them in opposition to loosen the lens cap. Well that worked, but in the process cracked the filter and somehow stripped one of flanges on the cap. I bet you can imagine the fine eulogy the filter and cap were provided on their way into the trash bin.

 

One bright spot though, I can get the step-down adapter on and off like a charm (tested that out a couple times afterwards with a wee bit of trepidation). Think I'll just stick to Bay 60 filters and the adapter from now on. Only thing is, the way my current project is going I need to start using graduated filters. The Lee filter system is the likely candidate -- but now I wonder how the corresponding Bay 70 Lee adapter will pan out ... ;-)

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(which results in the filters costing 2-3+ times more than similarly sized thread-mount filters of otherwise like quality)

 

Suggestion: switch to Cokin-style filters. I already had a good set for my 35mm gear. I bought a bayonet mount adapter ring which was more expensive than a regular screw fit ring, but at least I only had to buy it once!

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This may not be directly applicable to the issue raised here - but awhile back I devised an economical, simple-minded idea for developing a kind of "wrench" for this kind of situation. I had this 35mm lens that fit into an old rangefinder camera - but so tightly I couldn't get it out with hand action. And I didn't want to use any metal tools for fear of damaging the metal around the lens. So, I cut off a piece of electricians tape to a length of about 6 inches. I then rolled this to create a 6 inch long "tube" with the sticky side out. This was wrapped around the lens barrel and with a little twist counter clockwise the lens easily came out. Incidentally, I suggested this idea when the issue of "sticking" came up in this forum awhile back. Other solutions were offered - and I wonder if that forum discussion is what Wayne was referring to but couldn't find.
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