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Which Velvia 100- film, to F or not to F?


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I do not use slide film all that often but that will change when I

purchase a neg/slide scanner. I have just noticed that another

Fujichrome film has been introduced (Velvia 100 without the F). The

literature on this mentions better magenta and other colours.

 

What do users of Velvia 100F (2003 introduced) and 100 (new film)

recommend amongst these two. I tried 100F and Velvia 50 and liked them

both. How does 100 compare with 100F and ISO 50 Velvia?

 

While on the topic what film is recommended for colour portraits

amongst slide films?

 

Many thanks

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From what I know Velvia 100 is supposed to be very similar looking to the old Velvia 50. Velvia 100F is in between Velvia 100 and Provia 100F in look. Its not quite a strong as Velvia 50, but stronger then Provia. Some say 100F should have been Provia inthe first place.

 

I'm getting my first rolls of Velvia 100 this weekend. I'm going to test them out along side Velvia 50, and post some results if there's anything worth mentioning.

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Velvia 50 and 100 are about exagerrated colors, with some not only more saturated, but shifted in hue. If you are getting a slide scanner, you can warp your own colors, or goose the saturation, in the digital domain.

 

If you want to use slide film for portraits, it should be under very controlled lighting, with low contrast. It should not be a high-saturation slide film, either, very hard to design those that don't mess up flesh tones.

 

Portrait films are really the best for portraits, Kodak Portra 160NC, 400NC, Fuji 160 NPS or 400 NPH. They are all C-41.

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E100GX or Astia are preferred for Portrait work with slide. Slide film is typically high-contrast and heavily saturated (Especially Velvia) and therefore unsuitable for portraiture unless you're going for a very unreal look (Ektachrome 320T can be fun!).

 

Velvia 100 is the replacement for Velvia 50, which will be discontinued at the end of the summer. Velvia 100F is more of a Provia than a real Velvia, with less saturation and contrast than Velvia 50.

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Personally, I find 100F to be a failed compromise. It is not unsaturated and low contrast enough to be good a generic film and it is not saturated enough to be Velvia 50. And the last time I used it on a not-so high contrast situation I ended up having no detail in the highlights and no detail in the shadows. So that was that for me, out of the fridge and into the bin went 100F.

 

I haven't tried Velvia 100 yet but if it is anything like the 50 version I will be using it quite a lot.

 

As for portait films, Astia or Kodak E100G/GX is the one you want. For me Astia is too yellow and E100GX can be too brown at times so my usual is E100G.

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As Panos notes, Velvia 100F has highlight and shadow detail problems. I like Provia 100F in sunny circumstances a lot, it goes blue in already slightly cloudy conditions (shade). For that reason I tried Velvia 100F last year and was pleased by its resistance against blue shift and good night city shot colors, but under sunny conditions the colors were just too saturated for my taste, too much sunglass look in some cases. You could overexpose 1/2 a stop to counteract this but this would cause a loss of highlight detail. Then I tried Kodak E100GX and Elite Chrome 100 and I like it better for its good highlight/shadow detail, but also looses some snap because of this. Things look more snappy on Provia. But don't use Provia on people, skins will become more pink/red, the Kodak films skin tones look better.

Still, I keep hoping for an update on Provia 100F, keeping the saturation and contrast, correcting the blue shade shift and green shift of some lights at night.

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OK, Thanks all for your replies

 

I will use Astia slide film for portraits or something like Fuji NPS (low contrast) print film and probably go for Velvia RVP-100 (100 without the F) for those sunsets where high colour saturation is needed.

 

Does anyone know whether 100F or RVP-100 is any good for STAR TRAIL PHOTOGRAPHY? Does a magenta filter (colour correcting 20M) still required to correct colour shifts for long exposures and if so how long into exposure (20 mins or longer, 1+ hours, etc.)

 

Many Thanks.

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Hi David/all

 

I shot 5 rolls of the new Velvia 100 in Scotland a couple of weeks ago. In the field I found the extra stop very handy for eliminating camera/tripod shake on windy days, though I need to remember to stop down for waterfall shots.

 

I have been VERY please with the results. Saturation is very good, sharpness is great. It's not quite as wild as Velvia 50, but still much warmer and more saturated than provia or velvia 100f.

 

It polarises well without the fear of near black skies that was possible with velvia50.

 

I also found it easier to scan that velvia 50.

 

I will post some sample shots on this thread when I get home tonight.

 

All in all, I think most photographers will try the new film and will be very pleased with it.

 

Velvia 50 is dead (or will be once stock has run out), all hail velvia 100 :-)

 

Cheers

John

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