M6 film loading technique

[jean_david_borges]

As a newcomer to Leica M6, having gotten rid of my Canon A2 and lenses because of far too much automation, I have had difficulties in correctly loading film. I have actually "shot" two rolls through only to realize after the fact that I was shooting blanks. The film never threaded through properly.

I am a conciencious manual reader and followed the instruction to the letter. Has anyone gotten a "foolproof" method of film loading with the M6? I'd appreciate the help.

BTW, on the films that I succeded in properly loading, and using the Voigtlaender 50mm Nokton, the 35mm Ultron, and the Leitz 90mm 1:2, the images are stunning. The 90 is the only Leica lens I could afford (used) and I obtained the Voigtlaenders for appx $350.00 each new on e-bay.

[silverfish1]

My trick is fold over the end of the film leader and loop it over one

of the prongs on the take up spool. This fold will usually flatten

back to normal when you rewind. The other thing many folks do is

tension the film by turning the rewind crank gently. Do this after

advancing at least one full frame. If it turns more than a very small

amount before stopping you have not loaded properly. You can watch to

see that the crank turns after releasing and recocking the shutter

for the first one or two flicks at the beginning of a new roll. If it

doesn't turn or if you can't feel tension on the rewind crank stop

and reload.

[Rob F.]

I found the answers to Tony Rowlett's question, under the M section,

which starts out "OK to wind M6 . . ." (etc.) helpful. The idea is

not to fuss too much over it. Pull out the film until it's long

enough to engage the prong. Drop the film in & push it home a bit.

Don't worry about the sproket. Put the baseplate on. Wind one film

advance. Tension the rewing lightly. click shutter, wind again, and

as noted above, chack that the rewind knob is turning. It'll work.

 

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Regards,

[matt_veld]

I always find it helpful to use my little finger to push the end of

the leader deep into the take up spool; this ensures that the

sprocket engages the film sprocket holes. You could always use the

pleat trick, that is make a Z fold in the end of the leader and place

that in the middle of the take up spool. However the only trouble I

have is when I forget to push the leader deep enough into the take up

spool.

 

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As mentioned by the others the most important thing to do is to

observe that the rewind crank is turning when you advance the film;

after taking up the slack as advised.

 

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It won't be long and you will find that loading the M6 becomes second

nature and 'a piece of cake', why some experienced Leica M users go

on and on about it, I don't know.

[john_collier]

The main problem in loading an M6 (M4 and up actually, oops

M2R as well) camera is that the edge of the film leader can get

caught on a film guide rail or the film gate itself. When you

replace the baseplate, the film jams between the film gate and

the aligment "wheel" on the baseplate.

 

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So when you load, flip open the back, and make sure the film

edge goes past the "upper" film guide rail. Then close the back

and attach the baseplate. If you check this everytime, you will

never get a misload.

 

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Some bodies are more prone to having the film catch an edge. I

do not know why but on one of my bodies I never open the back

and on the other it will catch everytime if I do not open the back.

 

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For absolutely foolproof loads in the dark, theater photography

perhaps, I use the old ABLON film template which trims the

leader quite long. I then do not have to open the back as the

leader is trimed so long it cannot catch an edge.

 

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BTW The take up spool has a slip clutch drive, so even the film

has a fold in it, the take up spool will not pull jammed film into

alignment

 

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Cheers

[jean_david_borges]

Thanks to all who replied. I'll follow these advices and hopefully

will some day be able to load like a Leica pro.

 

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Jean-David

[wilhelm]

Jean-David, You're already loading like a Leica Pro. The secret is

learning to RE-load like a Leica Pro when you notice that the rewind

knob isn't turnng backwards as you advance the film. Mitch

[jay_.]

Read and re-read John Collier's response above. It is 100% dead-on.

This is the first time I've seen someone state the problem and

solution exactly as I would have. Either make sure the film is

seated up into the slot above the film gate before you replace the

baseplate, or trim the leader long enough so the film feeds into the

slot from the side as you wind on. Bravo, John.

[don_maldon]

I have not had a loading problem and am now concerned that I may be

loading incorrectly. I use my finger and push the film leader into

the take-up spool and then wind about 2 frames before replacing the

bottom cover. I then watch for a turning rewind knob. Does anyone

see a problem with this method?

[Rob F.]

Don, it appears there may be a problem with winding while the

baseplate is off. Again, look at the thread of "OK to rewind

M6 . . ." in the older M threads.

[grant_.]

i have no tricks....film goes in easily on mine, and in one turn its

caught....

 

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i guess film just likes me...

[alec1]

My suggestion is a bit different. I don't use a long leader, just

cut about a 45 degree angle on the end. I push that angled piece

down into the take-up spool like everybody else. But what I look for

is that the sproket holes of the film line up with the gear near that

spool. If they do, the film is correctly seated, so you can close

the back over it and proceed. Of course, you should always look for a

rotating rewind lever as you proceed. If you do it this way, making

sure the film is completely wound into the cassette beforehand [all

tension taken up], you'll get the bonus of at least 3 extra exposures

from a factory loaded cassette. Such little things matter when

you're shooting chromes. I learned this with my M4 and it is the

same with the M6.

[msitaraman]

My two bits worth...

 

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The following works well for me, after trail and error and a posting

here ;-)

 

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1. Tug the film leader out about a quarter to a half inch.

2. Push the cassette in fully with one index finger. The end of the

leader should rest within or between the prongs if you've completed

1. above.

3. Slide the film with thumb over the sprocket hole. You'll be

nervous about the cloth shutter curtain but the thickness of film

base will prevent any actual contact.

4. Replace baseplate and wind-click twice.

 

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Ready for use.

 

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YMMV, especially with the non-TTL M6s, which, in my experience are

more prone to jamming-the newer M6TTL is better in this regards,

though it occasionally will wind without film advance, which never

used to happen to me with the old M6 (it would jam if the film wasn't

being wound).

[jean_david_borges]

Thank you all for your help. If I screw this up again, I'll have no

one to blame but myself, after such diverse and detailed explanations.

The bottom line seems to be: no matter what the loading procedure is,

make sure that the rewind knob is turning as you advance to the next

frame; if not, start over.

 

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Thanks again,

 

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Jean-David

[david_enzel]

Jean-David --

 

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When you loaded the film, was the back gate flipped down? When you

push the gate up the film is supposed to go into position. As long

as I do this, put the bottom plate back on, wind once, take up slack,

wind again, it works fine. It doesn't seem like it should work but

the back plate -- once back in position -- seems to make everything

come out ok. The instructions in the manual really work for me.

Hope this helps.