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EXIF or data reader that harvests ALL recorded data


lex_jenkins

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I want an EXIF reader or something similar that will show me every

single bit of data recorded by the camera, preferably in the same

format shown by the camera (mine is a D2H).

 

For example, I want it to show:

 

1. Whether the VR was turned on or off with my VR lens;

 

2. The highlights warning screen;

 

3. Histogram as shown by the camera (since histograms in other

software can differ);

 

4. Which focus point/sensor was used; etc.

 

So far I've looked at the EXIF data shown in Nikon Capture, Nikon

View, Irfanview, Noise Ninja, OPanda, EXIF Reader, and probably a

couple others. None of 'em shows the above data.

 

Maybe I'm being too picky, but what's the point of recording data

that can't be studied later? I often find myself wishing I had

access to, say, the focus sensor point data to figure out where the

AF went wrong so I'll know which AF options to avoid during certain

situations.

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Lex,

 

Why do you think any of the items on your list are going to be in the EXIF data section? For example, the histogram is a basic counting of pixels so why would that be replicated in EXIF? Who says that the camera records the status of the VR switch? The camera may know in the sense that power is sent to the stabilization module when the switch is thrown, but why would you think that there is an associated data item in the EXIF file?

 

Aren't you actually asking the camera maker to provide additional information not otherwise available in the EXIF data area??

 

Mike S

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Life has become very complicated. Hasn't it, Lex?

 

My Kodachrome shots taken with an F2 have all the data on the note pad, I scribble on. The few weeks it takes to get the slides back still does not bother me much.

 

Lately, i became a bit lazy and got myself a voice memo recorder.

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Camera manufacturers do provide information outside of the standard EXIF data set. It's

usually stored in the MakersNotes EXIF tag and contains data like the total exposure count,

active focus points, and presumably other items.

 

But aside from the little utility that pulls the exposure count out of D70 files, I don't know of

any programs that will read and decode that data.

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<a href="http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/%7Ephil/exiftool/">ExifTool</a>

decodes some of the MakerNote stuff, and may have the most complete

support for Nikon files of any 3rd party software. In some cameras,

part of this information (e.g. lens data)  is deliberately

encrypted (using the same algorithm that is used for WB encryption in

the D2X), so it's difficult for developers to support everything (even

if it's written to an EXIF tag in the first place).<br>

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The latest version of Nikon Capture does 1 and 4, if your camera supports it. I think this has been true at least back to 4.1.

 

2 and 3 are calculated based on image data, and are not stored in the EXIF. When you calculate a histogram, you specify how many bins it has, and what their distributions are. This is "taste", there is no right and wrong. Histograms for little camera screens typically have less bins than histograms in programs for a PC.

 

Flashing blown highlights are OK on the 2 inch screen, but they'd be pretty annoying on the 21 inch...

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Well, it seems that at least some of us would appreciate access to *all* of the information recorded by the camera after the images have been transferred to the computer. If the camera is going to record data we should be able to access it later. All of it.

 

Joseph, I agree that there isn't much advantage to a full rez screen flashing the highlights warning. But we don't get that with most histogram displays on our monitors with most image editing software, so it's a safe bet that if data such as highlight warnings, focus points, etc., are recording for later display, they'll be confined to smallish boxes.

 

Thanks for the tip, Richard. I'll try ExifTool.

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Lex, Photoshop 7 and later will display clipped values for you when doing a "Levels" adjustment. All you have to do is hold down the ALT key while clicking the black or white point slider. You can also adjust levels and view clipped values in real time if you hold down ALT while dragging the slider -- a nice little undocumented feature. You can also do this for each channel if you adjust levels for R, G, and B separately.

 

Sorry, I don't have a workaround for you on any of the other points you mention.

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Thanks, Jon. I'm pretty sure my versions of Corel Photo-Paint and Jasc Paint Shop Pro can show histogram data in pretty much the same fashion as the Nikon LCD screen, given the possible differences in color channels shown.

 

The particular items I'd like to see are:

 

1. The particular autofocus sensor (among the array, which varies from camera to camera) that was active at the time. When reviewing the on-camera screens this shows up as a highlighted red "[ ]".

 

Among other things, this could be helpful in determining whether the camera is autofocusing effectively.

 

2. Whether VR was turned on or off and, if on, which mode (since some VR lenses have more than the one simple mode offered on the 24-120 VR).

 

3. The highlights warning screen is pretty similar to the out of gamut alarm already offered with some image editing software so it seems like a no-brainer.

 

We can only hope.

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Hi,

 

you could email me some untouched images taken with a VR lens.

 

Plaese note if VR was on or off. The images can be taken at smallest JPG size with high compression to keep them small.

 

nkrs_lens 䴠hotmail o com

 

Regards

Ro

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<i>1. The particular autofocus sensor (among the array, which varies from camera to camera) that was active at the time...

<p>

Among other things, this could be helpful in determining whether the camera is autofocusing effectively. </i><p>

 

Lex, this doesn't really work unless the camera is on a tripod or you are extremely steady and push all the way through when shooting rather than doing any focus and recompose. The reason for this is obvious - the camera doesn't record the shift in position from when you focus to when you shoot.<p>

 

Vivek, a very long-winded way to say that you have absolutely nothing to offer on the topic.

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Jeff, by "autofocusing effectively" I mean whether the preset patterns are behaving as anticipated. For example, is there a tendency for the central cross-shaped multi-sensor to favor one particular sensor point over another? Does it matter whether the bias is set to closest focus rather than central focus?

 

This may seem like nitpicking but I think it's important info. I can review it on the chimping screen, which highlights in red the "[ ]" sensor point on which primary focus was locked. I'd like to be able to do it as well later at my leisure.

 

Granted some may not regard this minutiae as essential but I do. So, I suspect, do a few other photographers. Good enough reason to make the data accessible.

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Lex, I can see this data (with the Canon cameras that I use) with the appropriate software. The problem is that I can't find any value in it given that a) I often focus and recompose, and b) use tracking focus (or whatever it's called) when shooting boxing, which is where I am making most of my money these days. I can't derive any value from the point that the software shows.

 

But that's just me, maybe I'm missing something here.

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Hi Lex,<br>

Maybe I can help you too. Mail me the pictures and I can see what I can do for you.<br>

I'am interrested in all known and unknown EXIF tags, so maybe we can help each other.<br>

And when my Photo debug tool is more mature I can publish it. My findings about EXIF tags I publish on my webpage

at <a href="http://www.gvsoft.homedns.org/">http://www.gvsoft.homedns.org/

</a><br>

\Ger.

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Thanks, Ger. Ro Ro (Robert) suggested that I send low resolution, highly compressed files straight from the camera because even Nikon's own software apparently modifies the files enough to effect EXIF data. He also suggested, if I'm recalling correctly, that I simply take a photo of "nothing", just a short duration exposure with the lens cap on. Does that sound okay to you?

 

(I haven't been able to get around to this yet - my D2H batteries are dead, my charger is in another city, etc., etc.)

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