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CRIT- anyone see a magenta cast?


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Thanks for the responses; particularly to Ronald & Bruno. The shot was taken on Portra NC, which I use in Malaysia (instead of VC) 'cos the light is clear, bright & contrasty & colours are vivid. I'm trying to learn to scan (Nikon 5000ED) & Photoshop & looks like omitting the first step of calibrating the monitor ain't helping much. I haven't got a lab print to compare with. Grateful to anyone who can point me in the direction of a good Photoshop tutorial.
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David, you don't need an extended tutorial on this one. Just know the complementary colors for RGB, which are CMY. That is, red is additive and cyan is subtractive--which is why they are opposed to each other on the color balance adjustment. The next "slide" down on color balance has green as additive and magenta as subtractive, and, finally, on the last "slide," blue is additive and yellow is subtractive.

 

In the present case, that means that, if you perceive too much green, move the middle "slide" (the magenta-green one) slightly away from magenta and toward green.

 

In this case, it would not take much before the greens would go out the roof, and so you won't need much green to balance out the slight excess of magenta. You do NOT need to touch the yellow-blue adjustment on this one.

 

I like the photo. I would like to see it in a bigger version, but the clarity still comes through. That is a sharp lens, and its qualities still show in spite of the small size of the uploaded file.

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<i>I like the photo. I would like to see it in a bigger version, but the clarity still comes through. That is a sharp lens, and its qualities still show in spite of the small size of the uploaded file.</i>

<p>

You have a much more discerning eye than I'll ever have.

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Jeremy, it could stand a tweak more G. There may be actual colored inlays in the sidewalk, just to confuse things. I'd expect more G would add an ugly cast to the featureless sky...slightly increased brightness or contrast would blow it out.

 

The light we see does make things "vivid," but it's flat, not "contrasty." Zero shadows.

 

The film or scan may be crossed-over a little, which adds to the complexity...matching the asphalt to a neutral grey with the eyedropper MIGHT therefore still suggest visual correction.

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Thank you all, particularly Landrum. Film was Kodak Portra NC 160. Not a v. interesting shot but the light was a lot better than what you see; there's a few more shots in the series which I might post when time allows.

Learning lah, as Malaysians say.

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I still think that it is interesting, David, but I am an aficionado of road shots, which always remind me of the words of Charles Kuralt: "There's a bend in the road up ahead. I wonder what's around the bend."

 

I would still like to see a larger version, to see what that old Summitar is capable of.

 

I like it.

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Look at your info tool with the color picker on a neutral area of the road. All chanels

should be close in value. A high # in one of the channels will suggest a color cast. Open

levels and double click the midtone picker. Set the channels to 127. Do same for highlight

and shadow. Set highlight to 245 and shadow to 10. By selecting the gamma (midtone) in

levels and clicking on the neutral area of the road should neutralize a cast. You can keep

clicking around the image until you get what you are looking for.

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I've just looked at the file- if anything, it's a little blue. Open the levels tool and select the

blue channel. Pull the gamma slider to the right until you see the changes that you like.

With the info tool open, you'll see the values come into balance. You can never argue witht

the numbers. Good luck.

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