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16mm is great, but expensive! Yes, K40 is still available-barely. The stuff is stunning. Too bad you never got to shoot 16mm K25. That stuff was nice....

Basically if you're gonna shoot 16mm amateur film, the reversal stocks are best. You always have a positive and don't need to pay for a work print. Kodak makes Plus-X reversal, as well as Tri-X. I like Plus-X.

Fomapan makes a wonderful black & white 100 speed film.

For color you've got Kodacrhrome. Just remember you have to filter it for daylight! 16mm cameras usually don't have built-in color compensating filters. Some good, cheap brands are Bolex H-16, Bell & Howell 70, and perhaps Canon or Beaulieu. Remember you can always get a telecine transfer to MiniDV and edit on a computer.

 

Do check filmshooting.com. Have fun!

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There is also Ektachrome 100 now - the same stuff as the still film.

 

Other things you may need to know about 16 mm film is the type of load: there are 100 ft daylight spools, 400 ft and 800 ft core loads and a special 200 ft spool for the Aaton Minima camera. There's single perforation (most common) and double perforation (going or gone?). Few normal-speed cameras require double perforation film. Double-perf film will run in a Standard-16 single-perf camera, but single-perf film will not run in a camera with sprockets designed for double-perf film. Super-16 cameras should only use single-perf film.

 

Best, Helen

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Perhaps someone knows if there is a tank out there to help me process my own 16mm or 8mm Tri-X.

 

The first reason would be cost, but I also have the feeling that I could also push Tri-X with a lot more confidence were I to process it myself (I've had what I'd call 'adequate' results with 135 Tri-X at 3200 in Ilfotec HC, and I could order a river of HC-110 for a very reasonable price). All my experience has been with small, manual Patterson tanks, which I suppose need room on either side of the image to sit in the reels. Does that mean a reel system will not work with film with one-sided sprockets?

 

Would my best bet be tubs of the chemicals in darkness? When pushing that far, I agitate the developer very sparsely to avoid high contrast, so that seems possible.

 

I'm well aware of the grain/film guage questions I need to ask myself, but I'd like to ignore those for now.

 

Thanks.

 

P.S.: Thanks for the link, Mikko.

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Well Kodak people say that the closest match to 5285 is E100VS, but I didn't hear them say it's the same film. I've taken a look at the charts, and while it is similar, the charts are not identical as with EBX and E100VS.

 

I've seen some examples of 5285 used as still film, and to my eyes it looks exactly like E100VS, the same recognizable look.

But there would probably be some small differences if you compared them in a lab. Which is probably irrelevant in real life.

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