To Akira - digital Infrared Photography

[janvanlaethem]

In a previous post, Akira said: "I'm very happy with the special capability of

D2H for UV-, IR- and, of course, visible light photography in one package

without modification. Since it's the known fact that D70 is even better camera

in this particular aspect, I'm still tempted to buy a D70 for back-up (or vice

versa)! "

 

I have been doing infrared black-and-white photography for ages, but as it

gets harder and harder to buy Kodak Infrared and even more difficult to find a

lab to get it developped (not to mention having to carry a changing bag if you

want to load/unload this film on location), I'd be interested if Akira or

anyone else for that matter could tell me how they use a digital camera to get

the infrared effect. Any comments on the use of filters (deep red, opaque) and

digital processing methods are welcome.

 

I'd be interested to get infrared straight from the camera, if at all

possible, I'm not looking forward to spending hours on a computer to adjust my

images. I have basic knowledge of Photoshop 7, any experience with other

software programs welcome.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

regards

Jan

[vivek iyer]

http://maxmax.com/aXRayIRCameras.htm

[joe_queen1]

this is a bit extreme and maybe not what you had in mind, but worth a look

<br>

<a href="http://www.astrosurf.org/buil/d70/ircut.htm">http://www.astrosurf.org/buil/d70/ircut.htm</a>

<br>or<br><a href="http://www.lifepixel.com/IR.htm">http://www.lifepixel.com/IR.htm</a>

<br><br>

I've not tried this so i cant comment...

<br>

Have fun

<br><br>

joe

[Robert DeCandido PhD]

Hello,

 

If possible, go for the option of removing the IR filter from a digital camera....many posts here in the last several weeks. By removing the IR filter, it is then possible to make handheld exposures. EG., I routinely shoot at F8 and approx. 125th/sec. The D50 or a used D70 are good options. Several people do the conversions: Life Pixel is good (he did mine), and there is a fellow in California who does the same work for somewhat less. Again, info has been posted here before. An image from Central Park as an example...

[Robert DeCandido PhD]

One more...Central Park, typical<div></div>

[akira]

Hi, Jan,

 

This is Akira;-)

 

Yes, I'm enjoying my D2H very much.

 

However, I should make it clear that what I enjoy is the all in one capability that D2H is, I would say, blessed with by nature. And currently I'm much more into UV photography because it seems more rare and more esoteric.

 

Since you have a long experience of film IR photography and are planning to go for digital IR, I would NOT reccomend D2H as the best candidate for your need. You'd better have D70, D50 or even D200 modified by experienced people in this area.

 

As for post-processing, I don't have any good example to show, but here is how original data out of "unmodified" D2H looks (only resized and saved as JPEG). The lens used was an old Nikkor UD 20mm/f3.5 and the filter is fuji SC72, roughly an equivalent of Kodak Wratten 89B, 0.77sec, f11, ISO200.:<div></div>

[akira]

Now, with Nikon Caputure, you can adjust some color balance. After "click white" operation using "dropper" tool pointing on the white line on the asphalt, a little adjustment of the color balance and unsharp mask (this is redundant for the resized sample), the original data above looks like this:<div></div>

[marco_p1]

I did some IR phptpgraphy last week with a regular D70, heliopan IR filter (780 - something). Exposure times were about 4 seconds at f8-11 in full sun-light. I used 24/2.8 and old 85/1.8 Nikkor as my filter is 52mm size. Lots of fun, haven't downloaded the photos yet, maybe I can share some later. Camera modification provides the ability to shoot at faster times, the IR-blocking finter on the sensor is removed, but if you can live with longer times is not neccessary. Have fun, Marco

[akira]

The last one is simple conversion from the Ex.1 above to B&W by simple operation of selecting the "B&W" from a pull-down menu:<div></div>

[akira]

And now, this is an example of the original data straight out of the same camera. This time the lens was AF-D 35/2.0 and the filter was very dense Fuji IR90 (even denser than Kodak Wratten 89C):<div></div>

[akira]

The day when the picture Ex. 3 was taken was overcast with some lower clouds, so the contrast was rather dull and the typiacl "wood's effect" doesn't stand out. But anyway, this filnal example is a result of simple adjustment of contrast and conversion to B&W.

 

Hope this would be of any help.<div></div>

[akira]

I would like to add:

 

The biggest advantage of a DSLR modified for dedicated IR shooting (by replacing AA filter pack in front of the imager with IR filter, mostly 89B equivalent) is that you don't need to put opaque filter in front of the lens and you can keep seeing the object through the viewfinder.

 

Also, the sensitivity to IR is so significantly increased that you are likely to handhold the camera under the bright sunlight.

 

However, if you want to try IR filters of carious density, you have obviously to use the lighttest IR filter to replace the AA filter pack. When you use denser filter, you have to put one in front of the lens and in this case, you will lose the complete advantage of modified camera except for the high sensitivity.

 

Also, the amount of comensation of focus will change according to the density of the filter (more prescisely, the wavelength that pass through the filter). Although you can pretty much trust the "R" dot on the distance scale on the lens when you use 89B or equivalents, you almost have to double the amount of focusing compensation (amount of the angle you need to rotate the focus ring) when you use IR90 filter. Some modification company will optimize the auto-focus adjustments for IR, but you need to manually compensate for the focus shift when you add a denser filter.

 

Lastly, other than the websites recommended above, this tutorial by Bjoern Roerslett is well worth reffering to:

 

http://www.naturfotograf.com/UV_IR_rev00.html#top_page

 

Wish you happy IR (and/or UV) shooting!

[akira]

Sorry,

 

The IR90 is denser than Kodak Wratten "87"C, not "89"C.

[richam]

Jan, I had a D100 converted by <a href="http://www.irdigital.net/">IRdigital.net</a>. You

can see some of the results in my <a href="http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/

608733">Verdun Gallery</a>. I had some experience with unmodified cameras with filters,

but it seems to me the modified D100 (1) Produces better images, and (2) Can be used hand

held under most circumstances.

[akira]

Oh, man, I'm ashamed of too many mistakes!

 

IR filters don't likely to become carious. It shoud be "IR filters of VARIOUS density, you have obviously to use the LIGHTEST IR filter..."

 

Any more mistakes?

[janvanlaethem]

Thanks to all of you who contributed to this post, I've received some terrific info. And thank you Akira for taking the time to post your images and make this a very clear explanation.

 

I didn't know you could actually modify a digital camera to make it totally infrared compatible. I would be hesitant to do this with a new expensive camera, but when D70s or D50 come to the end of their production life, I might just get one at the right price. The only thing left to do is to convince my wife that I absolutely need a new camera. I've gotten to a point where I don't count the camera bodies and lenses I have. I do know their approximate weight when I try to carry everything I own in a backpack and struggle not to fall over backwards.

 

I have no problem though using a tripod if slow speeds are unavoidable. In fact, I use a tripod for all my landscape and macro shots, even in daylight at 1/250 sec, it makes a difference when you blow up your pictures. I've always said that a man's best friend is a dog, but a photographer's best friend has only three legs.

 

regards

Jan

[akira]

You're welcome, Jan!

 

Today I tested my newly purchased Nikkor 28mm f3.5 using various IR filters. This lens (the very last and multi-coated version of older optical design) is highly recommended by Bjoern as IR lens on DSLR. It is an excellent performer for usual digital photography, too.

 

I've made sure of Bjoern's recommendation, but it's image quality seems to decline as the density of the IR filter increases. With Fuji SC72 filter and at f8, the image quality is superb corner to corner.

[janvanlaethem]

Hi Akira,

 

Please have a look at my infrared pictures in the first folder of www.photo.net/photos/janvanlaethem

 

Although I love the way some of the pictures came out with a grainy structure, your pictures look much cleaner and sharp. Will give digital infrared a try when I can justify the expense of a new camera.

 

regards

 

Jan

[akira]

Hi, Jan,

 

Thanks for directing me to your nice portfolio.

 

I especially like the infrared one on the left in the second row(fruit farm?). Its dreamy mood is, I think, a fine example of the charm of IR imagery.

 

I personally wonder how many people dislike the graininess of IR films (and high-speed films). Along with a little trace of flare, the graininess seems to be the crucial element of the otherworldliness of IR image.

 

Ironically, Bjoern once raved about the clean IR images produced by Nikon DSLRs, especially those by D2H and D70, in his reviews of these cameras, but many of his digital IR images published on his websites are quite grainy:-) I'm not sure that grain was added on the PhotoShop or he simply used high ISO settings, though.

 

Although I'm not trying to discourage you, the clean digital IR images rendered in B&W can sometime look like just ordinary B&W photos with bright leaves. To make intriguing color IR images, you need to learn how to tweak the images on PhotoShop.

 

Having said that, it is clear that DSLR will offer you several different creative options of doing IR job. I hope you would find the most suitable one for you.

[thakurdalipsingh]

Pl help- which Nikon DSLR gives better IR images after conversion, D70 or D40 or any other? which Canon DSLR gives better IR images after conversion, 300D, 350D or 20D, 30D.or any other? any experience? I know all will not give equal results.