Pentax 67 Camera Question -

[f stop]

Hi All,

 

 

 

I am the happy new owner of a Pentax 67. Please help me to tame this beast.

 

I have three questions-

 

a) I understand that slow sync speed (1/30) is one of the draw backs of the system, but I was reading the

manual, online, and it states that with an "FP" flash source, much higher shutter speeds (like 1/250) can

be used. Can anyone help me out with this? I don't even know what an FP flash is!

 

b) I have also come to understand that one must use the MLU function to get decent shots. Maybe I

missed this in the manual, but when can I and when can't I use this function?

 

c) I am getting ready to buy my first lens for it, and it's kind of a toss up between the SMC Pentax 67

105mm f2.4, and the SMC Pentax 67 90mm f2/8. Any thoughts on which one I should get?

 

 

Thanks,

 

F Stop

[User_502260]

Pentax made several leaf shutter lenses for studio/flash use. If you think you will need to take a lot of flash photos or studio photos you should look for one of these. Very few poeple use focal flane flash bulbs any more. The first model of the Pentax 6X7 came out in about 1970 so focal plane bulb use must have been more popular. Mirror lock-up is useful in a certain range of speeds. You see the greatest benefits with speeds of 1/15 and slower. With faster speeds there isn't as much benefit and with very long exposures (several minutes or longer) there also isn't as much benefit. A 90 is slightly wide for the 6X7 format. My Bronica GS-1 has a 100 for s standard lens. If you think you might get a wide angle not too long from now then get the 105. The extra speed will make focusing a little easier.

[f stop]

There is a flash made today - the Sigma EF500 Super DG (for pentax cameras) that has an FP

setting. Do you think I would I be able to use it on the FP input setting?

[www.antiquecameras.net]

<p>

<a href="http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/p67ss.htm">Pentax 67 Lens Guide.</a>

[gary_watson]

For all the scorn poured on the Pentax 67 and its "limitations," it's a remarkably capable and flexible system camera. The slow synch speed is a real drawback for fill flash work. However, the "slow" 1/30 synch speed isn't an issue with strobe lighting--ever wonder why so many fashion shooters used the P67 for so long? FP is for flash bulbs. Try using it with studio strobes.The money wasted on film+processing will be tuition.Mirror lock-up is useful but not necessary on exposures of 1/15 or faster, some say 1/30. So much of the clatter and vibration people remark on is actually post-exposure. Try to find a 105(cheap)or an older 150(cheap, too).It's a great system camera.Remember all 67 systems have good points and bad--none are perfect.The P67 is extremely good value now.Have fun.

[skygzr]

You can use MLU whenever you want, although its easier when you're using a tripod. My opinion is that the vibration problem is somewhat over-stated. It's really only a problem over a short range of shutter speeds or with very long lenses. The P67 is quite usable hand-held in many circumstances.

[rod_sainty2]

a)Yes, FP flash synch contacts were provided on older 35mm Pentax (and other brand) cameras as well- at least to the MX of 1977-83, but disappeared as electronic (X-synch) flash became ubiquitous. I recall a short item in Pop Photo several years back that discussed current sources of flash bulbs in the US. Perhaps you'd like to try, but remember that flash is not the P67's strong suit.

 

b) MLU is useful to avoid vibration from the mirror stopping as the shutter opens, especially when using slower shutter speeds. Easy to do when the camera is atop a tripod, but still achievable in some circumstances when hand holding.

 

c) I chose the 90mm 2.8 lens over the 105mm 2.4 because: (1) I wanted the lens to be a little wider and thus allow freer compositions at fairly close range, (2) I wanted to shorten the gap between a standard lens and my 45mm lens and thus avoid carrying another lens, (3) the 90mm focusses significantly closer than the 105mm, (4) it is lighter and more compact, and (5) it is a newer design than the 105mm and I hoped it be the sharper of the two. I can report that my 90mm is brilliantly sharp, even nearly wide open when I am keeping my shutter speed up when hand-holding.

 

Have fun with your P67.

[derek_stanton2]

WHICH Pentax 67 did you get?

 

I believe, of the 'first generation' model designs (NOT the Pentax 67II), only the certain

models had MLU functions. They should be advertised as Pentax 67 MLU.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000jno

[frank_skomial]

" but I was reading the manual, online, and it states that with an "FP" flash source, much higher shutter speeds (like 1/250) can be used." - was the manual specific for Pentax 67 camera and printed by Pentax ?, or was it just a manual on the modern FP electronic technique ? These 2 things may not be the same.

 

Modern FP flashes work in FP mode but only with cameras that are compatible, and have built-in electronic logic to support electronic FP flash. I do not want to speak in general terms, as there are exceptions to almost every rule, but I think your Pentax 67, like the older Pentax 6x7 that I have, has FP mark that describes use for bulbs, and not for electronic FP implementations that came much later in time. Has ever Pentax implemented the FP socket in Pentax 67 to become an electronic FP mode camera ? - I do not know (?) and I doubt that.

 

E.g. If I connect Nikon SB-800 (it has FP mode), to Pentax 6x7 camera through the FP socket, I cannot switch the SB-800 flash into the FP mode, since the flash does not recognize the Pentax 6x7 camera as a FP compatible camera. Saying it other words, there is no electronic support built into my Pentax 6x7 (yours could be different ?), to allow the stroboscopic FP (Fast Pulse flash) mode operation on the SB-800.

 

The SB-800 works in FP mode with Nikon D200 camera, since both have required electronic logic to support that mode.

 

Anyhow, get the 90/2.8 LS lens (LS = Leaf Shutter) and you will have all fast shutter sync for flash the lens built-in central iris leaf shutter provides. I have this lens and is great. I also use it with 2X converter and get 180/5.6 LS operation working well.

 

There was also a 150 mm lens with LF. They should be reasonably priced in the used cameras market. Pretty soon you will see them only in photo museums, as the digital age is killing the older technologies.

[mike_earussi1]

The only time you would use mirror lockup is on a tripod. But even with mirror lockup the focal plane shutter is so strong it also causes significant camera shake, primarily between 1/30-1/2 sec., even on a heavy duty tripod. With my 67 the only way I found to eliminate it was to drape my 10lb. camera bag over the top of the pentaprism to weigh it down and absorb the vibration. Others have reported success with putting their hands on top of the pentaprism and pressing down, which I've never tried as I was too afraid of introducing my own shake to it.

[jrjacobs]

As others have said, it is a great camera system and you will be at no loss for 1/30th sync speed when shooting in the studio. If you are doing outdoor fill-flash work, you will need one of the leaf-shutter lenses, which can sync up to 1/500th a second.

 

Get yourself the 90/2.8 and the 165/2.8 (great portrait lens) and you will be in business. You can also get both of those lenses in leaf shutter models in you are interested in higher sync speeds.

 

Another interesting lens to consider is the 35mm fisheye, which is one of the best fisheyes ever made for any camera system, and can be purchased relatively inexpensively on the used market.

[charles_stobbs3]

I've never owned one but from what I've read on this thread it sounds like it has a focal plane shutter that takes 1/30 of a second to traverse the film plane and therefore 1/30 sec is the fastest speed that will have a slit width equal to the frame size, any faster speed will have a narrowr slit and if you use electronic flash only part of the film will be exposed. For example a 1/300 shutter speed will only have one tenth of the film plane exposed when the electronic flash goes off. However a focal plane (FP) flash bulb burns for at least 1/30 second. long enough to expose the whole frame as the slit slowly traverses the film plane. I don't know if you can still buy such bulbs, they were very common in the era of Speed Graphics with their focal plane shutters.

[dougmiles]

Welcome to the 6x7/67 club! I have both the 90/2.8 and the 105/2.4 and they're both excellent sharp lenses. One is a half-stop faster and the other is more compact; one is like a 50mm lens on a 135 film camera, and the other is like a 43mm. I haven't had the 90mm very long, but took it to Hawaii last Fall and was a bit surprised at its vulnerability to flare from the sun near but outside the frame even with a hood. I didn't have the 105 along to compare...

 

Have to agree the 165/2.8 is a lovely lens, and so are the 200/4, 55/4, and my favorite 75/2.8 which is I believe the last lens designed and produced for the 67 system.

 

I have four of these bodies, having gotten the first one (a used non-MLU) in 1976 (which is about the time that feature was introduced), the latest (a 67II) just last year. I seldom use a tripod, and have never used the mirror lockup feature (but then I seldom use shutter speeds longer than 1/60th). This is a great hand-held field camera.

[steve_rasmussen]

Concerning the 90 vs 105mm; the 105 is quite sharp, as I made a 24x30 inch print with great success. They are both the same design type(Double Gauss). If you can get by with a slower lens, I suggest the 55-100 zoom f/4.5. It is just as sharp as the 90 and 105 and has an f/32 stop for better DOF. The 90-180 zoom is also a classic. Both are new designs.

[rothelle]

95% of my work is shot with the Pentax 67 MLU model. I have never use the camera in mlu mode and have hand held it at 1/15 and never had a problem with camera shakes. This camera is heavy and that is what I like about it that I can hold it steady. About them lens, I would get the 105 which is a great lens to have. I have the 105/150 and they are both great lens. You are going to have to get use to the flash at 1/30 or lower unless you buy the leaf shutter flash sync at all speeds. I have not had any problem with slow sync even when working with models. I just love this camera and I want to thank digital photography for coming out because now I get to play with cameras that I only dream about;D.<div></div>

[trooper]

I've had a number of P67 optics go through my hands over the years and I've tested/culled among multiple examples of the same lens. This has shown me that they aren't consistent but they are all relatively good performers. I've read criticisms of the 105 but the 3 I've had and tested were excellent and both 90's (one LS) were a bit soft. I would not be surprised at all if others had the opposite experience. I had two of the latest series 55's and one was easily the sharpest of all of the P67's that I've checked and the other wasn't as sharp. Other than perhaps getting a real "clinker" or damaged/dropped lens, I think most people would be quite happy with any example they buy but be aware there are variations and if you're doing extreme enlargements or are hyper-critical about absolute resolution, you may want to try multiple examples before keeping one.

 

Try putting a laser pointer on your camera, shoot some frames at various shutter speeds. A close inspection of the negatives will help you decide how much mirror and shutter vibration you can tolerate. This should show you 2 things regarding the P67.... First, most of the mechanical commotion is occurring after the frame is exposed (shutter closing and mirror returning) and secondly, you aren't as good as you thought at hand holding!