adnan_76 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 So today I found out tray developing is not going to work. It was my first 4x5 negative, and when I went to setup, I found there's no way to get any bathroom dark enough for the task. <P> I've heard some negative things about the Yankee daylight tanks... B&H has one advertised as "has an Improved design, that provides for better chemical flow and more uniform agitation." <p> Has anyone used this? Any major drawbacks like having to use a lot of chemistry? The price seems right... thanks in advance. <P> <center><img src="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/largeimages/63620.jpg"></center> <p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=63620&is=REG&addedTroughType=search"> B&H link </a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I have this exact developing tank, it works well ,you need to follow the directions on agitation and pour in the dev and fix fast and evenly , its just like doing 35mm in a round tank. You can do 10 sheets at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Alternatively, you can also use the Jobo 2521 daylight tank which holds six sheets at a time. It would have the added benefit of being able to "upgrade" use to a rotary processor. As a normal inversion tank, it takes 1.5 liters to fill. For rotary, something like 250ml suffice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickc1 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I bought a Paterson Orbital Print developing tank and motordrive off eBay - I thought if it'll process 4x5 prints it'll do 4x5 negs as well, and it does, superbly!. Subsequently I was advised to roughen up the bottom of the tank to stop negs sticking, and I have now done that too. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyammons Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Get a Jobo 3010 tank and a rotary base. It uses minimum chems, holds 10 sheets is easy to load in an 8x10 harrison film tent. I removed the cog spout on mine to make it easier to fill with chems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard baznik Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I have two of these Yankee tanks and have stopped using them after continued problems with uneven development. I've switched to an HP Combi-Plan tank, which holds six sheets at a time and uses a bit less chemistry. I may ultimately wind up with a Jobo set-up, but for now I'm much happier with the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff bishop Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 The Combi-Plan is the only tank I use (or have used) for sheet film. Not a single complaint, it works beautifully. I just wish they cost $20. less than they do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adnan_76 Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Thanks for the replies. I'll check into the Combi-Plan as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csafdari Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I had some trouble with this tank at first, but now use it regularly. My biggest complaint is that the lid doesn't lock on. The intiial trouble was with loading the film, and with inadequate agitation. The first problem was fixed as I gained more experience in slipping the film into the slots in the dark, and as I learned to rely on the little guide gizmo that comes with the tank to help slide in the film into the slots. I triple check with my fingers to make sure that each film is in a separate slot. The second issue was resolved when I just shook the tank a bit harder for agitation. It is a large tank for 6 sheet of film (old version -- I guess new version holds 10 sheets?) but I use Acufine developer so there isn't a lot of expenditure wasted on chemicals. Filling the tank can take a minute or so, and to avoid this problem I pre-fill the tank before I dunk the film in it and close the lid. Emptying the tank can be done quickly enough (just keep your finger on the lid so it doesn't fall off as you flip the tank over!) However, if you can't get the room dark enough, it will be difficult to load the film into the tank using a changing bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbg90455 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 If you can't get perfect darkness while you develop, then the above-mentioned Jobo 2521 is the only sane choice -- maybe a bit pricey, but you can't beat the convenience and consistency of the results.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gurney_tim Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 We have all been there...now I can enjoy a dedicated Darkroom yet have used bathrooms, garages and closets as darkrooms. You can always get a room 100% lightproof. Dedicated darkroom suppliers will provide lightproofing sheets for the windows and doors.. I have used JOBO, Combitank and yankee as well as tray development. Tank dunk and dip is the solution for me. There are some issues to consider as you will work into LF and Zone system. The adjusted developement times can be controlled with either tray or tank not with daylight developement tanks like the Yankee and other. Typically you will have various views (say 8 sheets) but some will be N other N+1 and so on. With tray or tanks (dip&dunk) you develop them at the same time removing them as per needed dev times. I can process 8 sheets in one batch and with any combination of dev times. With the yankee tank you will do one batch per dev time and have to let the film holder.tank dry between batches. Other advantage with tank dunk and dip after wetting agent to can hang the films to dty in the holder=less manipulation=less risk to scratch the film or have the pegs mark the corners. Cheers Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranong Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 i have used this tank. i mostly use a tank very similiar to the yankee tank, they are basically the same. as for using alot of chemistry, you can put the sheets back to back (not the emulsion sides) and get many more sheets processed in on tank. my tank holds 12 sheets. with my developer dilutons i can soup 16 sheets in my tank. this way i maximize my chemical to sheet ratio. (i use hc110 at 1:119). i have had no problem with partial development. i had a combi tank, but i never got to use it. i sold it for more film. the combi tank is basically the same type of an idea to a yankee tank. i can not see it functioning radically different than the yankee tank (and the combi is $80!!) eddie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Put an upside down tray over the developing film tray. Agitate by lifting the edges 1 inch and lowering fast. Work your way around the tray one edge per 15 sec or two every 30. Use one sheet of 4x5 in 16 oz in an 8x10 tray developer emulsion up. Guaranteed fabulous results, just slow. The film is supposed to move around and rotate. Initial agitation is for 1 minute. If you are not dark enough to get film into a tray, you can`t get it into a tank either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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