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80-200 2.8 Focus Problems


samantha_bender

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I purchased the Nikkor 80-200 2.8 lens from B&H back in January and am

finally getting the time to use it. Well, I wish I would've used it

sooner. I am seeing a big focusing problem with the lens when I am

zooming in (at about 200) so the background is out of focus but my

subject is (supposed to be) in focus.

The subject in this senario, is not even close to being in focus at times.

Has anyone experienced this with their lens?

Thanks.

Samantha Bender

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Samantha, the only time mine doesn't look sharp, at the subject, is when I forget it doesn't focus very closely (about 5.5 ft., I think), whenever I do remember, and back up a little, it is VERY sharp and focuses well......the only other thing is, check if your AF switch is on...
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If you have this lens, do you ever shoot at 2.8 and 200mm...zooming in so the subject is in focus and the background is out of focus?...handheld?

A Nikon rep told me that I shouldn't expect the lens to be tack sharp at 2.8 - in the situation I described. Call me crazy, but for $1000 the lens should be sharp all the time - right?!?!?! (Yes, the shutter speed is fast - this happens from 125th to over 200th.)

Samantha Bender

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Samantha, hand holding a 200mm lens at a shutter speed of 1/125 is asking for unsharp photos. Even 1/250, with a heavy lens like the 80-200mm 1:2.8, is questionable depending on your strength, stance, degree of relaxation and amount of caffeine in your system. I think that may be part of your problem, especially if it is not occuring every time ("at times").
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Notice that among photojournalists, typical users of lenses like this, when they're forced to shoot at or near maximum aperture (f/2.8-f/4) they'll often use a monopod, especially indoors where flash is not permitted.

 

Even outdoors with sports they'll often use a monopod to steady the entire rig. Very few photographers can reliably handhold such a heavy combination of equipment. When conditions force shutter speeds below 1/500 second we mere mortals are forced to use monopods, tripods or find something to lean on.

 

Also, finding the best focusing mode for a given camera/lens/shooting situation can be tricky.

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Thanks guys. I guess I hadn't really thought about a monopod...though it sounds like a good idea. One more question though. I like to use this lens specifically for high school seniors. With my seniors, we usually go outside and explore a location - moving around a lot. I really like to have the background being completely out of focus and my subject in crisp focus.

Would you recommend trying to bring along a monopod for this situation?

Thanks again!

Samantha Bender

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As others have said, using this lens handheld at 200mm can be trying. You will get

wonderful shots from this optic with a tripod, or monopod. Any amount of steadying the

body and lens will help greatly in obtaining sharp, clear images with that wonderful

blurred background intact.

 

You could also try handholding this lens and shooting a scene in AF, then shoot the same

scene in manual focus. See if there is any difference. Then do the same thing on a tripod

mount. Not scientific, but it might give you an idea of where to turn.

 

Also, I have found that shooting this lens wide open at 2.8 creates a bit of distortion and

CA. Not much, but enough to make me move the aperture to f/3 or a bit higher. Just a

little movement in that direction makes a big difference for me. That could be my lens

alone, or perhaps is inherent in all of these lenses.

 

It is a great lens for shooting outdoor portraits.

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Yes, I would consider using a monopod for your roaming outdoor portraits. A quick release helps, as it's just easier to disconnect the lens from the pod if you're moving more than a dozen steps or so. I use the Stroboframe QR. It's not rock solid, but it's very quick and generally 'positive' (i.e. you have no doubt that it is or is not engaged).

 

In addition to just steadying up the rig, you may find that you enjoy that you can leave the lens more or less 'on target' with no effort while you pull your head from behind the camera to chat with your subject or just re-assess your surroundings. If you get that fleeting expression while your head is out of position, you can still shoot with a pretty fair chance of getting what you want. (I don't do much in portraits, but I do shoot sports, and that ability to relax and still be ready is huge.)

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Hi Samantha -

 

I'm using a Bogen 3245 monopod. The Stroboframe QR reference was for the specific 'quick release' I add to it.

 

The Bogen 3245 works for me for two reasons: it's nice and tall (I'm 6'5") and it has a somewhat unique 'squeeze adjustment' that allows you to set the final height of the pod with one hand. That's just one of those things that once you've experienced it, you wish all products were that well thought out.

 

I lean more towards 'hand held, no tripod' for a lot of my shooting, and the Bogen 3245 with a decent quick release is a nice compromise of quick and easy while providing enough support to add 'two stops of steadying' to my results.

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Dear Samantha

 

Have you checked up the switch Full/Limit . If you move the button to limit it is struck-up with the Flength you focused in the previous shot. Keep the button to Full. Dont focus on the Glass and on the total white backround. I am using one with my D70s and N80 . It is sharpest nad one of the best lens that you can have for all purpose. With out tripod don't even think to hold it on the hand.

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I have a 80-200 2.8 Silent Wave and have focusing problems as well. I find that it will always focus from far to near but seldom near to far. I also had the focus jam on me which cost me over $400.00 to repair by Nikon, after all the repairs I still have the problem of it not always focusing from near to far.
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