Handholding a Hasselblad

[jan_de_ridder1]

Hi,

 

I have never handheld my Hassleblad, I tend to always us a tripod.

Being summer now and everywhere being very busy the tripo does get in

the way a bit, not only myself but other people too. Now I was

wondering if the hassleblad is actuall handholdable, of course it is,

but it seems srt of uncomfortable does anyone have any pointers, is

250 the maximum you can use ?

[rover]

Use a strap around your neck, apply slight downward pressure on the camera in your hands and slight upward from your neck. The added tension will provide some stability. Or what about a monopod/walking stick?

[nikos peri]

No problem. For street and surreptious portraits, I use the plain Jane Planar for that extra stop. The fact that you don't have a camera glued in front of your face means many people don't even realize you're taking their photo. I find the holding it has become steadier and more natural than a 35mm SLR. Cradle it with both hands wrapping underneath. The right hand index finger on the shutter, the left hand focuses and sets exposure. Very solid.<p>

Longest lens I use is 150mm, so maybe 250 would be pushing the envelope a bit more, but absolutely worth a try. Plus, you can get "grainless" enlargements from a 400 ISO film compared to 35mm, so shutter speed is almost never a problem.

[stewart_bauchop]

I use a recently acquired 500cm with an 80mm planar and wlf mostly for handheld portraits of the kids. Holding the box in the palm of my right hand with 3 fingers under the camera and one round the shutter release button and thumb up the side. This feels very secure and quite natural to work with. I use a nikon f2 in a zing case for ice climbing in Scotland but it probably weighs the same as the hasselblad. Given the superb results on mf im seriously thinking about how i could use it in the mountains (in wild conditions).

I only use the tripod for timed exposures/landscapes

[Ed_Ingold]

The previous suggestions seem to provide firm support. I would like to offer mine with ergonomics in mind, relying on 30 years of engineering experience.

 

Hold the camera in the palm of your left hand and operate the shutter with the left index finger. Focus and wind with the right hand. When shooting, put your right palm under the camera and wrap it around your left hand, like a golf grip. Keep the WLF or Prism finder firmly against your head for triangular support. A strap can help, especially if you actually use the WLF at waist level.

 

It is more efficient to use the right hand as indicated, since you never have to focus and wind at the same time. With the right hand free to do those tasks, you don't have to transfer control of the camera between hands.

[robert_nancarrow]

I second Edwards holding technique, I spent several years holding the camera with my right hand for some reason and then read about the more common and accepted left hand hold with right hand free, what a difference in usability and steadiness, although some people talk about the shake caused by the mirror slap, using good technique and my eye/head on the finder I regularly had very good results at 1/30th second, sometimes even with the 180mm lens, this is not that surprising when you realize that the mirror is not moving when the shutter opens. Bob.

[johnmarkpainter]

I would like to 'third' the Left hand hold firing with the Left Index Finger. I rarely use a

Tripod with my Hassy.

[kelly_hicks1]

I guess I'm in the minority. I have a hard time using a hasselblad handheld and getting sharp pics. Granted I'm using a 150mm, but I keep my speed above 1/250. Maybe too much coffee. I'm sure the 80mm would be alot better.

[wayne_crider4]

I prefer the flashgun bracket; Especially when carrying.

[l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r]

Is'nt hand-hold-ability decided by the shutter speed? And being a SLR, it won't be as holdable as a TLR/Rangefinder at lower shutter speeds.

 

I have hand held Hasselblad 503 and Rollei 6008i with 80mm lenses. And even a GX680, with a 100mm lens :-)

 

Mostly I operate at 1/60 or higher. With Rollei 6008i, I also go to 1/50, owing to 1/3 stop shutter speed control. All this with 100 ASA speeds, and daylight. I would operate the 120mm makro lens at at least 1/125 second.

 

Perhaps the best overall guiding rule is using shutter speed of 1/focal-length. So if you are using a fast film with 250mm lens, you could use it handheld. I have never used a 250mm lens on a Hasselblad, so I am not sure how it feels weight/bulk wise, but with 80mm lens, it is a joy to handhold.

[tarashnat]

Jan,

 

I've been relatively successful with handholding the 350mm © both with and without a

ProFlash 4504. Without the flash, I hold the lens in my left hand and use the right hand for

holding the body/shutter release/wind. The arms do get really tired after lugging that set

up around all day, and it is quite front heavy. I almost always use a strap when

handholding. I have a 500mm as well (CF), but have not even thought about handholding

that baby.

 

With the 250mm and shorter, I also hold the camera body in the palm of the left hand, and

operate all the controls except the shutter with my right hand. The older C lenses seem to

force you to use the right hand, as the interlock release tab is on the right side.

 

If it is the difference between getting the shot, and getting nothing, then by all means

handhold. If the goal is to get the sharpest image on large prints (or slides for projection)

of a relatively stationary object, than set up the tripod.

 

Taras

[frank_bunnik]

Just got back from 4 weeks Nepal, 3 weeks walking. Used a monopod and a Leitz mini tripod occasionally (mainly for sunrise pictures). All other shots were made handheld. Got my 28 rolls of Velvia 100F and 14 rolls of Reala 100 back yesterday. Not one shot was spoiled because of camerashake. Used a CF 50 Fle, 150 cf and a 250 C. Shutterspeeds varied between 1/60th to 1/500th mostly.

 

I use an Optech strap, just push the camera down and you get good stability (though not as good as with a tripod of course).

 

Good luck, Frank

[benny_spinoza]

There have been many good suggestions. When shooting, I also hold with my left hand and use my left index finger to push the shutter release. But, I focus with my left thumb and index finger and cradle with both hands, and then shift my left hand slightly to shoot as discussed above. (I'll try focusing with my right hand as suggested and see if this is better.) However, there is one comment I would like to add that hasn't been suggested. If you are concerned about mirror shake, and if the subject allows it, you may want to consider pressing the the mirror release with your right index finger while cradling with your left hand with left index finger on the shutte release. Then, fire away shortly after the mirror flips up. At that point, you have the beauty of only the leaf shutter to vibrate the camera. The only drawback is that you don't have an image to look at for the brief time between mirror release and shutter release. One fo the reasons I bought the Hassy is that it is indeed hand-holdable.

[frdchang]

when i hand hold i make sure the viewing hood is connected to my head.

 

when the mirror slaps, my skull and my hands are connected to the camera, essentially increasing the damping factor via increase of mass.

 

the only time i have trouble getting sharp fotos is when i use telephotos like a 180mm... then i have to go by at least 1/250 or faster.

[jan_de_ridder1]

Thank you all...

 

the "250" mentioned in my original thread was shutter speed, not focal lenght.... sorry for not being a tad more specific on this one.

 

I will go out tomorrow and just try it, I like the left hand hold and shutter release option, and focus with my right hand, I also like the idea of acquiring a "third" left-hand ... ...

 

As minor as it seems this handholding thingie will open a new chapter of photography for me. As mentioned I allways used a tripod, and I always (75%) used low speed films (efke 25's) and I alsways have some form of "motion" or maybe better describes movement in my pictures. Now my pictures will come out totally different now using 125 HP and 320 TRI-x'es, a whole new world is opening up... I am eagerly awaiting the results and see if I can cope with it ...

 

Anyway thanks a lot for all your friendly replies ...

[nemeng]

<i><<a href="http://4020.net/">4020.net</a>></i><p>

 

So far I've only hand-held my 'blad, mostly for street people candid shots.<p>

 

To steady the camera, and not make it too obvious I'm using it, I hold the camera with my left hand and steady it by pressing it against the left side of my chest. This leaves my right hand free to work a lightmeter or hold a (soft) drink etc. Much less conspicuous for street work IMO, and you can safely go down to 1/30th (provided you pre-release the mirror!) :?)

[feli]

I haven't had much luck hand holding my Hassy. Unless you add the motor and prism finder it's a constant battle. Mirror slap is a problem below a 250th, maybe 125th. I also feel that the focus throw on most of the lenses is far too long, to follow any kind of action.

 

In the end I found the best solution was purchasing a Rolleiflex TLR and prism finder, a combo which is next to impossible to beat for handheld work at any shutterspeed. ;-)

[peter_white2]

My SWC is quite hand-holdable. Come to think of it, I've never even used it with a tripod.

[Gup]

I handheld my 503CW last night in a darkened concert hall for the first time. I used my Nikon F5 with Metz 70-5 for the first half, moving all about the hall, balconies and side-stage. I used the 'blad with a D-40 mounted on the 45 degree prism for the second half from only three vantage points. I held it in my right hand with my index finger on the shutter and my left hand for focus and exposure control. Before shutter release I found myself grasping the flash with my left hand to stabilize while standing on a bench, leaning against a wall. Quite awkward looking, I'm sure. I used a CFE 80mm, a CF 150mm and a C 40mm (which I could not get to release the flash).

 

Time will tell which method I will pursue in the future, MF or 35mm.

 

My wife said the noise at release on the 'blad was quite perceptible and distracting all over the hall. I guess if I had released the mirror it would have been 'a bit' quieter.

 

I wish I had remembered to bring my strap! This is probably why I had such a grip on the flash. I had just removed the winder at home (with the wrist strap) because of the obvious noise and that coupled with my regular pistol grip flash bracket is usually how I grip the camera in both hands before tripod mounting for wedding shots.

 

We live and learn. I'm looking forward to seeing the comparison shots.

 

Gup.

[j.f_f]

Hi.

I have my Hassy 503 CXi with 80 mm lens from seven month ago, and never used tripod, I shot mainly street photos, no problem hand hold 1/30 with this lens, I hold the camera with the left hand and the index on the shutter, the right hand for focus, apertures and shutter speed.

Regards.

[simonpg]

Jan, I shoot 80% of the time with a tripod. But the Hassy is very useable handheld. Regardless of its box like shape it is ergonomically very comfortable in a handheld situation.

 

Tips: 1. fit a neck strap and adjust it so that you minimise the weight holding the camera to your chest when using a WLF. 2. keeping the horizon accurate can be challenging when using a WLF (harder than in square than a horizontal format) so the screen with gridlines helps; or fit a Hassy spitit level to the side of the camera and use your left eye to check it as you fire. 2. A PM45 is more comfortable for handheld - like a 35mm SLR; 3. I find 180mm a bit hard for hand held and 250mm too hard for any extended period of time. Both can be done of course but the weight can become tiring after a while. 4. how you place your hands is VIP - the left hand should cradle it from the side to under the body with fingers extended under the lens for focusing. The right hand balances the right side and should have your index finger extended to the shutter button. 5. The hassy latest version flash grip is a great help - add weight but also add a lot of stability. But I remove the cable release and still use my right index finger to fire. 6. best speed I can shoot at is 1/60 sec but really prefer 1/125 sec.

 

Above all - practice it, even without film loaded - "practice makes perfect".

[Rob F.]

Handheld shooting is OK for casual work, but to see what most of the Hassie lenses can really do, you do need a tripod. I generally use one for lenses longer than 60mm, or at most 80mm. Certainly we do not get the most out of the 100mm Planar, the 150, or longer, when hand-holding. Also, when using a tripod, it is possible to pre-release the mirror, further improving sharpness.