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firing studio flashes from a D70s


john_a_ford_iii

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After a great deal of research there appears to be no clean way to do

this. At on place, I was directed to use a WEIN hotshoe to hotshoe

product so that I would have voltage protection and a PC connector.

It has a weird PC connector - the whole thing looks like it was built

in someone's garage and the connection to the D70s looks way off.

 

Someone suggested obscuring most of the on camera flash and letting it

trigger a strobe but that seems to be a horrible kludge

 

How has the Nikon world gone backwards from my F90??? My guess is they

want to sell their dedicated flashes.

 

R

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The Wein PC adapter thing works well but is ugly. Nikon has a similar and much better looking product: The Nikon AS-15 Non-Dedicated PC Sync Terminal Adapter. Adorama has this product listed for $18.95 (new).

 

The D70s is based on a different camera body, the N85, not the F90. The new D200 is more closely based onthe N90s replacement, the F100.

 

Of course Nikon wants you to buy their speedlights and for TTL flash control nothign beats Nikon's system. I see nothing wrong with that. But their bodies are set up to handle up to a 250 Volt sync unlike some other camera companies that design thall but their top cameras to only handle a 6v sync voltage.

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Eric: I use two sets of microsyncs (2 transmitters and 2 receivers) and they work great with my ABs and WLs: indoors, outdoors, in separate rooms, etc.

 

I bought a 10-pin/mini-plug cable from Paramount Cords so I can use the microsync as a wireless remote release for my D2H.

 

Downsides? They only have 4 available channels, so they are nowhere near as versatile as the PWs, nor programmable in any way. Also the max flash sync speed is 1/180 sec.

 

Otherwise, I think they're great!

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Thanks Dennis and Ellis. But from being 20 feet from your power pack with the remainder being slaved? I use the PW's too, but they are big and don't always need to fire from 100 feet and around concrete buildings.

 

Only 180th? Silly...

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I think you should try using your on-camera as a master to slave the studio strobes. You don't acutally need to tape the flash. Just go to the menus and set the flash to M and select the lowest output value (1/128th if I recall correctly). Such a small flash at @ 1/128th will contribute an insignificant exposure to the shot. It's worth a try before spending money on a wireless system.
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The MicroSync works very well in the studio. Be aware that it syncs only to 1/180. I had

forgotten that recently and got a whole bunch of nice portraits with a black stripe on the

left side. I scratched my head for a few hours before realizing that was the problem. By

that time my model was long gone :)

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