cable for putting flash at a distance

[geert_de_keyser1]

I have to do some skate and snowboard pics for a client. I want to use

a speedlite on a tripod at some distance from where I am standing and

connect my EOS and this speedlite with a cable (standard thing for

skate & board pics). I have never before used this. I'm using a

Eos1DIIN and just read in the canon files that using cable is not

possible with DSLR's. Is this correct? If yes, what are my other

options? If no, how do I go about this without spending a fortune on

new gear?

[chris_hutchins]

most skate and snow photos are shot with off-camera manual flash (ie camera and flash used manually, often with a flash meter) so all you need is a flash with manually adjustable power output and a regular sync cord (or radio slaves if you want the flash more than 5-10m off camera). ttl functions will not be preserved but are useless for multiple flash setups anyhow.

 

chris

[steven v]

To Chris:

 

"ttl functions will not be preserved but are useless for multiple flash setups anyhow. "

 

I have a RebelXT. I've been considering buying the ST-E2 to wirelessly trigger one or more off-camera Speedlights. Canon markets this as "wireless E-TTL"

 

Based on your comment, I'm worried that the E-TTL metering in such an arrangement won't work very well, and so I'm getting myself into something more complicated than I bargained for.

 

Comment?

 

Thanks.

[robert_hall2]

There are numerous radio slaves, but the leader of the pack seems to be pocket wizards. You will need one transmitter on-camera, and one receiver for each flash unit. Since the pocket wizards work with almost any flash they will be useful into the future. There are several studio flash units that are portable. Lumedyne is one, and alien bees has a battery system for their units as well. The alien bees radio slaves work well.

[chris_hutchins]

Steven. I have no experience with that specific item but I'd imagine that a canon off-camera cord would have the extra connections needed to preserve dedication. What I was trying to say is that in practice, most skate and snow photogs use manually set flashes with a flash meter rather than TTL metering. This is because it is easier to control the lighting balance and previsualise results this way with a multi-flash setup.

 

chris

[chris_hutchins]

I've just re-read your post. The canon wireless system uses Infrared so the flash must be able to "see" the camera. This will limit where you can put the flash without it appearing in the image (something best avoided!). For this reason long sync cords or radio slaves are preferred.

[digitmstr]

>>just read in the canon files that using cable is not possible with DSLR's. Is this correct?<<

 

NO! You can use a PC cable however, that would NOT be the way to go for the type of shoot you are preparing to do.

 

I have an ST-E2 and found it works well outside, day or night. You will have to test at the actual location and your planned working distance. It will work in E-TTL and, if you know how to use the EX flash system it will give very good results. If you want to use the flashes in MANUAL mode (NOT E-TTL) you can do that as well. In that case, you need a flash meter and the set camera accordingly.

 

Whether you use your flashes in MANUAL or E-TTL I would use the CAMERA in full MANUAL mode so that you may control the shutter and aperture to taste. If you want to give a little motion use a slower shutter and use either 1st or 2nd curtain sync for some cool effects. It's all up to your taste and style.

 

I would also set the WB manually, to a value that produces the color warmth/coolness you seek. If you put a STOFEN GOLD diffuser (or a ROSCO TUNGSTEN gel) on the flash and set your WB to around 3800K you will get a pleasant warmish tone with intense blue as the ambient light (this would look good at night but, not during the day!).

 

Experiment before the shoot, you have DSLR so, don't be afraid to test things out.

 

Finally, if you invest in other triggering systems (Pocket Wizards or WEIN) you will also need to invest in custom hot shoe cords from Paramount. These will be necessary to connect the triggering slave to the flash's hot shoe.

[digitmstr]

>>the flash must be able to "see" the camera. This will limit where you can put the flash without it appearing in the image<<

 

Absolutely not! You put the flash(es) on a stand, *out of camera view*. Because the head rotates it is VERY easy to point the receiver at the ST-E2 while at the same time tilting the flash bracket (a must have) to direct the light at the subject.

 

The notion that the ST-E2 requires the flash position to be within the frame is plain wrong!

[digitmstr]

<a href=http://www.photo.net/photo/3042035>HERE</a> is my location setup (you would NOT need the umbrellas for this shoot).

<p>

<a href=http://www.photo.net/photo/3042062>HERE</a> is the 550EX on the stand (for your shoot you will mount it up right. Mine was mounted for umbrella bounce).

<p>

<a href=http://www.photo.net/photo/3042056>HERE</a> is the bracke on the stand. Again, mine for oriented to for horizontal positioning. You will sit it upright to get the standard hot-shoe position.

<p>

And <a href=http://www.photo.net/photo/3042043>HERE</a> is the bracket. I used a LOWEL LIGHT bracket. It works well and it's cheap (around $6.00).

[digitmstr]

You will NOT need the "L" bracket UNLESS you plan on using umbrellas in the future, for other types of shoot. If you NEVER plan on using umbrellas, you would simply mount the flash directly on the shoe mount adapter, screwed onto the swivel bracket.

[steven v]

Thanks to all for their opinions. I appreciate the feedback about the ST-E2.

 

If someone could just clarify one major point here:

 

With the ST-E2, one has the option of using E-TTL wirelessly or manual flash exposure. With all of the other wireless slave systems, one MUST expose for the flash manually. Is that correct?

 

Thanks.

[chris_hutchins]

>>the flash must be able to "see" the camera. This will limit where you can put the flash without it appearing in the image<<

 

Absolutely not! You put the flash(es) on a stand, *out of camera view*. Because the head rotates it is VERY easy to point the receiver at the ST-E2 while at the same time tilting the flash bracket (a must have) to direct the light at the subject.

 

The notion that the ST-E2 requires the flash position to be within the frame is plain wrong!

 

^^ chill dude -

 

I din't mean to imply that the flash had to be in the frame, just that the reciever needs line-of-sight to the camera and in typical skate/snow situation this may not be possible. I'm sure the ST-E2 will work fine if you're only going to use one flash in a reasonably open area. In an urban environment or in the forest it won't work so well. Additionally, if you're using a fisheye (very widely used in skate photography) it can be extremely difficult to get the flash out of the camera's fov simply because it is sooo wide.

 

If you use standard sync cords you'll have to use manual flash. With some radioslaves (the expensive PW ones!) you can get add-ons to make the TTL metering work for your camera.

 

Chris

[chris_hutchins]

and in relation to >>> NO! You can use a PC cable however, that would NOT be the way to go for the type of shoot you are preparing to do.<<< that is just plain bad advice, most of the shots you see in mags were shot with maunal flash using pc sync or PWs - TTL flash is VERY rarely used.

[fourfa]

lol... apparently there's only one way to skin a cat

[chris_hutchins]

^^ ha - maybe i over reacted! It's usual to under-expose the background a little to help the skater/boarder stand out and, if you combine this with several flashes (one of which is often used as a rim-light), TTL metering is very easily confused. It's also hard to control the relative powers of the different flashes when using TTL, especially if you can't put them exactly where you want. I've been shooting extreme sports for a while and i've never come across anyone using TTL metering with off camera flash which was why i reccommended the cheap (as specified in the qu!) manual route.

 

Chris

[jimstrutz]

Canon's wireless E-TTL system does have ratio control for several groups of flashes, so it could be used for this. But I agree with Chris, this is a good place to use manual flash. Far more predictable & consistent. With (E)TTL metering, the size and shade of each boarder could/would alter your exposure. With manual it will be the same each time.

 

Cheap autoflashes with manual power controls would be the way to go. Vivitar 285, Philips P536, Sunpack 383, 544; something like that. I've never done this, but I would think long cords would be a pain on a snowboard setup. Wireless would be the ticket.

 

I have some of those cheap Chinese radio slaves you can find on ebay for $30. They work well if the distance isn't too great. I'd like to say, "you get what you pay for," but the truth is, for $30 you get a product that works fairly well, and for $300 you get a product that works a bit better.

 

Steven Van Dam, yes, with the regular radio systems, it's manual flash only. I think the PW system has a TTL option, but I don't know that it works with Canon's E-TTL system. The ST-E2 allows both E-TTL and manual flash control. That should work well for this, but it's kind of an expensive overkill if all you're doing with it is manual flash.

[mpalmquist]

The Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 it works perfectly for my 10D and my 550ex on a flash bracket. I suppose there could be some change to the 1DmkIIn to make it not work though I cant think of what it would be. And you maintain full E-ttl support with the speedlite. downside is that it is it's short 2 foot length.

[mark u]

It's certainly possible to splice in an extension to an OCSC 2. You need 6 core cable, and suitable jacks and sockets. DIN plugs/sockets or RJ12 work. Be sure to check for continuity. 50ft is certainly possible this way, retaining your choice of E-TTL or manual operation.