M6 classic not working with manual flash gun properly

[david_thrower]

Hi Everyone,

 

I have owned my M6 classic for about a year and I just love the camera!. I

did't buy it with flash use in mind but I went on a cruise last week and took

the M6 along and I bought a small manual flashgun from Jessops for taking the

odd snap indoors.

 

I set the shutter speed to the flash symbol (half a click between 1/30 and

1/60)and set the aperture accordingly based on the distance guide on the flash.

 

The flash fired every time but when I got the pictures back only the very egde

of the frame is exposed properly - the rest of the frame is very underexposed.

 

I am guessing there is a problem with the sync speed - am I using the wrong

shutter speed setting - I thought the flash symbol was self explanetory but

you never know with Leica as they do have some odd quirks now and again.

 

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

Dave Thrower

[johnmarkpainter]

If only the edge was exposed it sounds like it could be a mechanical problem with the rear

curtain sticking. Someone with some technical knowledge could probably give you some

guesses.

 

jmp

[james_lai]

Your shutter speed setting is correct. Are your non-flash photos ok?

[eliot_rosen1]

It sounds like you set it correctly. The maximum sync speed for the M6 is 1/50 sec, but any speed slower than that should also work.

 

There could be something wrong with flash synchronization circuitry of the camera. The insulation has been known to go bad. This happened to me with an M4P camera. If that is the problem, it is an easy fix, but the camera would have to be sent in to a professional such as Leica USA, DAG, etc.

 

My problem was that part of the image was dark and part light, when I used a flash, with a sharp line of demarcation between the two. Yours sounds like it might be similar. Apaarently, they used a cheaper insulation [which sometimes fails] in the later M cameras than in the M3. The fix was just to switch the insulation to the same as used in the M3. I haven't had a problem after the fix, which was done about 20 years ago.

[john_graham3]

The 1/50 speed would have to be about 3 stops too fast for only the very edge of the frame to be exposed by the flash, in which case your non-flash shots at all the higher speeds (being on the same mechanism)would be severely underexposed, and you'd notice that even with wide-latitude print film. So it's either the synchronizing circuit in the camera, or the firing circuit in the flash, that's delaying the firing until the second curtain has almost closed (I doubt it's possible to fire too early while the 1st curtain is starting to open). So first try another flash (you don't need to load film, just open the back trapdoor and look as you fire, if things are right you should see the entire film area lit up by flash (I hope I don't need to say it, but don't point the flash at the camera while you do this!). Once you rule out the flash, the camera needs service.

[david_thrower]

Hi Everyone,

 

As always many thanks to you all for your useful and informed posts - you guys are a great help!.

My non flash photos were fine and in fact one out of about 15 of the flash photos were OK. I fired the flash with the rear door open and I can see now that most of the frame is dark when the flash fured. The first test shot I fired off looked fine but all the 20 or so following shots showed the problem. Unfortunately I don't have a spare flash that will work (it won't fire my Canon FD flash guns) so I will take the camera back to Jessops where I still have some or the 12 month used equipment warranty left on it.

The flashgun is a very cheap and chearful Jessops 150S model - has anyone ever tried this unit on an M6?.

 

Best regards

 

Dave Thrower