Coho Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 I realize this has been covered before but not for a while: When I convert myimages from tif to jpeg for display on PN, the colours just lose life. I lookat my lively tif images, then look at the somewhat drab jpeg conversions and Imust agree perhaps I deserve those 3/3s I'm getting. Is there a better way tomake the fat pixel sing as a jpeg and bring life to my images on PN? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emre Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Convert your images to sRGB before posting them (and search the archives). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coho Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 David,<br> <br> If you are using Adobe ImageReady to convert you TIF/TIFF(s) to JPG(s) I recommend trying a compression value of 75 and if the image is to large in megapixels then try 43. I find that values between but not including 75 and 43 produces poorer quality images. I have ideas as to why this happens but I cant explain it correctly or completely so I wont try.<br> <br> For best color on various displays: copy your image to a new file and use Convert to profile... to convert it to sRGB. Depending on your monitor calibration and what Photoshops (or another programs) images are emulating you may need to adjust the Hue and Saturation in Adobe ImageReady. If you are using a program other than ImageReady experiment with various compression values.<br> <br> You many not get the best gamma and mid tone saturation directly from your camera or on conversion. These can be adjusted using the Levels and Curves pallets. To increase mid tone contrast and saturation you can pin or drag the 1/4 tone down slightly then drag up the 3/4 tone. This increases the mid-tone contrast at the expense of the high light and depending, to the shadow contrast. This is a feature of conventional wet darkroom process. Indeed a painter must do the same on canvas. It's not possible to depict the actual values of most subjects, particularly a hard sunlight one on a two dimensional surface. In theory a sheet of photographic paper can reflect no more than 100% of the light that falls on it nor less than 0%. In practice it's more like 107% due to optical brighteners and perhaps as low as 5% in the shadows. These are not test values but general values.<br> <br> Do NOT use Brightness and Contrast as these are lousy, that is they cause loss of data. If you need to clip the image some use Levels where you can control what you are doing both visually and with the aid of the Histogram. Note that Auto Levels and Auto Curves does some clipping.<br> <br> I suggest archiving almost all images (as shot) as unmodified NEF(s). Edit the best, that is separate them from the mediocre. Later an image that does not seem worth saving may have more value to you. I speak from sad experience. Saving the also ran(s) is not as space consuming as saving apparently unneeded slides and negatives.<br> <br> Best,<br> <br> Dave Hartman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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