Need help from a Canon FD camera tech - - Screw stuck on A-1

[sparky_agplater]

I was replacing the bottom plate on a Canon A-1 when I accidentally

slipped one of the miniature screws for the bottom plate into one of

the locating holes for the mounting pins of a power winder.

 

The screw freely rotates in the locating hole, but will not back

out. I've tried gently shaking and rapping the area where the screw

is stuck but it won't come out. I've also tried to capture the

screw on a bit of chewing gum and tape... both to no avail.

 

I am sure someone out there has run into this problem... though

I'll not ask you to fess up to doing it yourself.

 

How do I get the screw out of that locating hole? Leaving the screw

in the hole is not a solution because the camera is used with an

auto winder.

[don_coppola]

A small magnet might help.

[awahlster]

put a drop of super glue on a note card then dip a toothpick in the glue touch the toothpick to the screw head and hold inplace for a couple of minutesuntil the glue sets you should be able to pull it right out. TRY the magnet idea first.

[michael_linn]

A strongly magnetized cross point screwdriver should get it right out.

[miles_feigenbaum___dallas_]

What some people will do to set their old gear aside and buy an F1N!!!

 

You said this was one of the miniature screws but is there any room under the head to stick a pin or needle to use as a prybar while backing the screw out?

 

If the previous things don't work, you could always find a good TIG welder, like around an airport or good machine shop and have them TIG weld a small diameter rod to the end of the screw using a very small Tungsten electrode (.020 dia) which is a special order tungsten , fortunately not expensive, and the collet and collet body to match... Try all the options listed above before you go to this trouble..or shelve it and buy the F1N that you've always dreamed about!

[User_502260]

I have two F-1 bodies (not F-1n or F-1N) and I never worry that they will malfunction when I use them. They were both overhauled by Essex Camera Service and work well. I don't have any auto exposure Canon FD mount bodies. I guess my F-1s could have auto exposure if I fitted Servo finders to them. I may look for an A-1 or an AE-1 Program. The reason is that I now have ten New FD lenses. In general I prefer to use the older breech lock FD and FL lenses. It feels like the aperture rings on the New FD lenses have a more positive detent at each f/stop. I think this was done because it was assumed they would be used mostly on auto exposure cameras and not rotated very much. The older FL lenses have an even better feel but you must use stop down metering with them.

[awahlster]

Jeff, You do realise there are quite a few Fd lenses only available in nFD mount so by only using the older mount you are missing out on some great lenses here is a list I made up for another forum a while back

 

ONLY available with the Breech lock ring style mount:

 

28mm f3.5 (2 versions)

 

35mm f3.5 (3 versions)

 

35mm f2.8 T&S

 

35mm f2.8 Macro (mounting adapter only in breech ring)

 

20mm f3.5 Macro (mounting adapter only in breech ring)

 

55mm f1.2 (5 versions including 3 Aspericals)

 

These lenses are only available in the new mount:

 

14mm f2.8

 

24mm f2.0

 

50mm f1.2 (both an *L* and non *L* versions)

 

85mm f2.8 Soft Focus

 

100mm f2.0

 

135mm f2.0

 

200mm f2.8 Internal Focus that will work with 1.4X-A

 

200mm f1.8

 

200mm f4.0 MACRO

 

400mm f2.8

 

28-55mm f3.5/4.5

 

35-70mm f3.5/4.5

 

35-70mm f4.0 AF

 

50-135mm f3.5

 

50-300mm f4.5

 

70-210mm f4.0

 

75-200mm f4.5

 

100-300mm f5.6 (2 versions 1 an *L*)

 

150-600mm f5.6

 

So as you can see if you restrict yourself to only the early mount you will be missing a whole lot of fine lenses.

 

IMHO I have tried to select the best from both groups. Maybe this will

> help show others some of their choices.

>

> Mark W.

>

[sparky_agplater]

Thanks for the suggestions so far... ummm... I might go to the TIG welder as the weapon of last resort : )

 

I attempted some Pliobond on a Phillips screwdriver this morning and it didn't work. I was thinking of trying some Blue Tack, which is decidedly stickier than the Pliobond and not nearly as irreversible (in case of an error) as CA adhesives.

 

I tested the other screw from the bottom plate and the little devils are ferrous, so a magnetized driver or a strong magnet might do the trick.

 

I'll let you know what, if anything, eventually works.

[gregory_nicholson]

Compressed Air might also work if there is the slightest gap to get air under the screw and hydro (only pneumatics) it out. I wouldn't mess with Canned Air but rather an air compressor with a needle adapter that will deliver 120 PSI. If all else fails sell it on ebay without disclosing the problem, just like 50% of the junk that trades there. (my ebay dig for the day)

[richard_oleson]

These people all want you to do things the HARD way.

 

Just send me the camera and I'll remove the screw, and I'll return the screw to you.......

 

(might have to keep the camera)

 

:)=

[User_502260]

Mark, I do know that some lenses are available only in one style or another. I have seven chrome front FD lenses, fifteen FL lenses, eleven black front breech lock FD lenses and ten New FD lenses. This does not include the non-Canon FD and FL mount lenses I have. There are about fifteen of them. My observation is that for regular use on a match needle type camera, the older lenses have smoother aperture rings. I think I may enjoy using the New FD lenses more on a body which has automatic exposure. If I do this I think I would look for either an A-1 or an AE-1 Program. If I remember correctly the focusing screen on the AE-1 Program is user interchangeable. My preference is for a grid type screen for most shooting. I know there is the T-90 to consider and even the F-1N but I think I will look for a nice F-1n before I add either of those. For now an AE-1 Program shouldn't cost very much. The challenge will be finding the grid screen. A few years ago an eBay seller sent me what was supposed to be a grid screen for an AE-1 but when it arrived I saw it was a standard screen so I sent it back.

[miles_feigenbaum___dallas_]

Mark, you didn't mention the 2 lenses that are for copying 8 and 16mm movie film single frames, which is put on the front of a bellows. For copying single frames of the old movies that were taken by everyone in the early 60's.

 

The grid screens come up every so often, then again, you could send a plain screen to one of the aftermarket companies that make the brite screens for the medium format like Beattie, or Maxwell and have them modify a screen for you.

 

The 20 and 35mm macro lenses ,also for bellows mount are really cool but it took years to latch onto these.

[richard_oleson]

sparky, you might go ahead and try the CA adhesive, as long as you're careful not to use too much and glue the screw in. once you get it glued to the screwdriver and removed from the camera, you can dip it in acetone to remove it from the tool.

 

:)=

[awahlster]

Miles, The 20mm and 35mm macro lenses do not have either a Breech or nFD mount. The have the RMS microscope mount. The adapter is how ever a Breech ring type mount. Which is why they were not included. I have owned the 35mm f2.8 Macro but traded it to a Yahoo Canon FD group memeber for a Black Canonet QL-17 G-III BUT unless he forgot to tell it it never has showed up in Romainia I sent it out Feb 25th I feel very very bad about this. His friend was coming here on a business trip and shipped me the Canonet from Calif.

[User_502260]

I considered looking for the 20 and 35 bellows lenses but I have the full Minolta set. These are 12.5mm f/2, 25mm f/2.5, 50mm f/3.5 and 100mm f/4. The first 2 are also RMS lenses. I have the Minolta M-1 and M-2 adapters for them. The front of the M-2 comes off and is itself an adapter going from RMS on the front to Leica 39mm at the back. I then screw this into a Leica to T adapter and I can use the lenses on my Canon and other cameras. The 50mm and 100mm lenses are in standard Minolta mount and are supposed to be the same, optically, as the regular 50mm and 100mm lenses which have focusing mounts.

 

I had one experience with shipping to and from the FSU. I bought a 50mm f/2.8 Industar-61 lens in M42 mount from a seller in Pskov, Russia. The first International Money Order I sent never reached him. I tracked it and it was never cashed. Stopping the Money Order cost me $12(US) and I sent another one by Registered Mail. Many weeks later he got it and more than a month after that I received the lens. It came with a yellow filter and has a USSR symbol on it. The lens focuses to .3 meters and seems to be pretty sharp. I like it but I don't think I would order anything else from that part of the world.

[daryl_sullivan]

Interesting how a thread that started with a problem of a screw turned into a lens discussion. I'm guessing you have small, precision screwdrivers that you were using on the screws. A little trick, take the one thats the size you need and put it on a strong magnet, like on the back of car stereo speakers. Let it sit for a bit, and the driver will become magnetized. It may not be as strong as a commercially produced magnetized driver, but it should do. Put the driver into the head of the screw, and carefully wiggle it back and forth as you pull the screw out. Hopefully that will work for you.