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If you had $3500...


justin_kroman

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If you had about $3500 to start a MF system what would you get? I

plan to travel, hope one day soon to have a studio set up, and tend

to like 6x6, but anything would do. So, have a virtual shopping

spree if you will. You may end up convincing me to but your dream

$3500 set. Have fun.

 

PS + or - on the $3500 is welcome...

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I just got my Mamiya RZ67 Pro IID a month ago around $3200. It comes as a kit, 110mm lens, waist level finder and 120 film back. I got this camera because i have seen a lot of top fashion photographers ar using this and I will mostly do fashion besides architectural photography. Its not easy to travel with in the city or wherever but for me that doesnt really matter. I think you have not more options to decide. Either Hasselblad V series or Mamiya RZ67 or 645. Actually I heard Pentax is coming out with a 645 digital medium format which could be interesting. But Mamiya and Hasselblad are the bestsellers and became almost market satndard for most of the pro guys. If you decide to buy a Mamiya, let me know, I may sell mine because now I am thinking about getting a Horseman 612 for landscape photography.
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If I had $3,500 I'd get Minolta Autocord and my car fixed.

 

Seriously, I'd be probably looking into starting a Rollei SLR system, depending on how much I'd be willing to spend on lenses in future.

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If I had $3500 to start a MF system I'd buy a used Bronica on Ebay with a few lenses for $1000. I use a Bronica SQ-A and really like it; I have no problems with the quality of the pictures.

 

Now you've got $2500 to play with and decide what's really important. Personally, for me, it would go towards something unrelated to photography (like paying extra on the house); but you could spend $500 for some flash lighting (like Alien Bees); another few hundred on a meter, and a few hundred more on a tripod. I'd think for around $2000 you could have a pretty nice MF system with some good flash lighting, meter, and tripod.

 

Maybe you should take what's left over and travel with it since that was one of your goals.

 

Alan

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I will be more than willing to buy furture lenses, as I plan to have this system for years to come. I am an art student and I got grant money for a camera... uncle sam must think it is imortant for me to take better quility pictures... ;)
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You just may be able to get brand-new equipment at about 50% off retail, 25% off street prices. Many distributors have student discount schemes. Mamiya USA has its PEPP; Hasselblad USA has it HERO; Rollei USA has one as does (or did) Kyocera USA for Contax. Bronica used to until it keeled over. I am sure Pentax is in on it too.

 

So if I had $3500, I'd look at the Mamiya USA PEPP brochure and start picking out a Mamiya 645AFD for that 22mp digital back in the future, some lenses, some Profoto lights, a Sekonic meter and maybe a set of PocketWizards. You got to ask for the PEPP brochure because most dealers are reluctant to let you in on it and for good reason too; it eats into their profits. They'd rather sell it to you with their usual mark up. Or you can write to Mamiya USA directly to be sent one and then shop out of state to save on sales tax.

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I would have said a used <b><a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/mamiya/6.htm">Mamiya 6</a></b> kit... but I own already my fair share of system cameras and such a nice, quiet and small rangefinder as the Mamiya 6 is just what I miss sometimes. But as an art student you are probably looking for a more versatile camera with close-up capabilities. The Mamiya RZ67 is a nice, professional system camera and $3500 will get you a lot of stuff if you buy used equipment from reputable online sellers or that auction site. But the RZ67 is heavy and you should check it out first if you can operate it with various lenses.

<bR>

A cheaper and smaller solution might be a 645 camera, like an old manual Mamiya M645 1000s (for $3500 you can probably buy the complete lens line-up and all accessories) or a new autofocus Pentax 645NII (I love that it imprints all shot information on the film with each frame).<p>

If I had that kind of money and no medium format gear, I would probably buy a couple of cameras: a small rangefinder like the Mamiya 6 (with the wide angle lens) [$1000] or the Fuji GS645 [$500] for candid street photography; a system camera like the RZ67 with three lenses (50/65mm, 110mm, 180mm) and one or two extension rings [$1500-2000] for studio and all-round shootings; an old Graflex Crown Graphic with a roll film back for large format and old school photography [$300-400]; and maybe a couple of folder cameras, Holgas and medium format pinhole cameras just for the hell of it [$100-500]. And don't forget to save some money for a sturdy tripod [$300-500], a powerful flashgun [$100] and a good light meter (e.g. <b><a href="http://www.sekonic.com/Products/L-358.html">Sekonic L358</a></b>) [$200] -- I strongly advise against any auto-exposure prism (too heavy, too expensive). All prices are for used equipment.

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I'll make some suggestions, 'cuz in the end, you're going to have to convince yourself.............................'I plan to travel, hope one day soon to have a studio set up,'..........................you may or not be able to utilize the same tool for both these agendas, the nut you're talking about is big enough to start thinking in terms of two 'middle of the road' systems, like a MF and LF system, now if your tastes run to Rollei and Ebony LF, forget it.

 

This is what I'd do If I was going to spend $3,500, I'd do absolutely nothing but research for quite awhile, if you can stand life without 'bells n whistles', get a Minolta Autocord, it's Rokkor lens produces MAGIC, YOU WILL get every penny back of what you spent if you decide to resell this camera, see if you like 6x6, and there's a difference between the format and the all the gizmos that come on some of these camera.

 

Yes, it's an old TLR, the advantage to this, people will ignore when you're traveling and shooting w/this camera, because it looks like an antique, you'll almost become invisible. This proposition is a $100-$200 outlay, will allow you to do excellent work, while you get the feel of MF, and you produce work while getting the feel of other systems if you can get to an outlet that stocks the major player.

 

I have a Mamiya Pro-SD w/a 180mm KL lens, a back, and a prism II, everything I got new for less than $1,800, several years ago from a gentleman who goes to Hong Kong, my Toyo AII, and a 4" extension was acquired mint for a little over $1,200 from a gentlman who sells here in the States, the camera was/is like new, my first lens for this system was $750.00 so these two systems ran me approx. $3700, so I would sugget NOT thinking in terms of one system, you don't need to, unless you've in a rush blow this kind of money, the deals will come.

 

$3,500 + the deals that will come + the patience to wait and experiment to see what you really want = you getting what you want and buying it once.

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Now that you clarified this money is a grant given to you to be spent on photography equipment let me throw out another idea.

 

I don't know what or how you like to photograph; but what about spending that 3500 on a nice DSLR? I recently took a portrait photography class at our local community college and it was the first time I'd really used a digital camera. I must say that I never had a desire to own a DSLR until I took that class. When experimenting and trying new things with lighting it's so much nicer to see the results instantly.

 

Since you can get MF camera systems pretty dang cheap right now I'd think about spending that money on something you wouldn't normally buy and use your own money to buy the MF gear when you get a good deal. In my case that would be a DSLR. I'd like to have one, but I just can't bring myself to spend that much money on a camera right now (although I could if I really wanted). If someone gave me a lump of money for photography equipment that would be on top of my list. I don't think there's anything else I could buy right now that would make a more immediate difference in my portrait photography.

 

Alan

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Buy 3 systems

 

1. Buy a Mamiya 6 with 50mm and 75mm lenses. Great for travel. Light and compact or skip it if you dont mind lugging around a heavier camera. The Mamiya 7 is nice too, but the lens cost crazy $, especially the 43mm lens. i saw a 43 M7 lens go on Ebay the other day for $1350 ++

 

2. Buy a Kowa Super 66 with 85mm and 150mm lenses, or if you want to spend more $ and want a better selection and easier to find lenses go for a Pentax 67. A Kowa Super 66 with a 85mm lens should cost about $300 and it is sharp. For when you need to see through the lens.

 

The kowa is a bit heavy, but not to bad and is the best deal for the $, but lenses can be hard to find. The Pentax is a tank, and I have owned a RB and a RZ and IMO they belong on a tripod. You can handhold them barely and the action is super smooth compared to a Pentax 67.

 

3. Buy a 4x5 LF camera and one super sharp 135mm to 150mm lens. Add a Nikon 90mm (wide angle) later. For movements and big negatives. You should be able to do this for a reasonble amount. I have a Sinar F1, but its heavy.

 

Scanner of some sort. I bought a used Howtek 4500 for just over a G, but the new epson looks okay and it will scan 8x10 negs.

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I basically agree with Christian Phleger, except I'd get a pair of Rollei 6006 bodies (one with prism finder, one with WL) rather than a 6008i. Plus a couple of magazines, several extra film inserts, and a 50mm Distagon, an 80mm Planar, and a 180mm Schneider lens. You might be able to do without the 80mm Planar, but that will only save you $400 or so.
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Everyone has mentioned cameras etc. which is only half of your need. What is your output? If your going digital then 2k for a Nikon 9000, if not then get a good enlarger (zone system/D5 etc). Plus all the supplies and doo-dads needed for analog or digital process. MF cameras are cheap, its all the extras that will do the damage :)
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I'd seriously consider using the $3500 as a downpayment to finance a Hasselblad H1

+ a couple lenses & accessories and add a Mac G5 with Cinema display and add

Adobe CS2 + a really good archival quality inkjet printer! That should do it.

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When you decide to purchase a tripod, and you decide that you would like a ball head...... I recommend the BH-55 from Really Right Stuff.

I'm using my wife's Arca Swiss B1 because her birthday present was the BH-55. I can't convince her to let me use her BH-55 when we are out and about, I'll have to save up some money, sell the B1 and order a BH-55 for myself.

www.reallyrightstuff.com

Yes, it's pretty expensive, but after two ballheads, I bit the bullet. I have no regrets buying their ballhead.

Like any purchase, try as many different heads and see which one meets your needs.

cheers,

Dino

 

How about some tripod suggestions for Justin.

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Forget about a body and the lens(es( for a while and spend max. money on a tripod and lightmeter, get the best your money can buy. After having done this you can think about what to do with your leftove cash.

A good tripos and lightmeter(s) will pay off and will have a large impact on the quality of you pics.

A firm and stirdy Gitzo Carbon (heviest carbon you can get) with Arca Swiss head will cost about $900 and will serve you for life. A minolta or pentax spotmeter and a sekonic "normal" meter will set you back another $700 leaving roughly $2000 for the actual camera and lens

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Justin, yes, the RZ67 has no in-camera meter. Most professional medium format system cameras come without a light meter in the body. For all amateurs and busy pros there are the auto-exposure meters -- heavy, clunky and expensive things that still are not as versatile and accurate as a dedicated hand-held light meters (two words: flash metering). A prism viewfinder is also always darker than the waist-level finder and therefore focusing is not as easy as with the WLF and magnifier. Take a look at a RZ67 in your local camera store and you will see what I mean.

<P>

As Jan said, a good light meter will serve you for life -- my recommendations would be a Sekonic L-358 or L-508 if you <i>really need</i> spot metering. In my humble opinion spot metering is overrated, I use it probably for only 0.1-0.5% of my shots -- but then again, I am not shooting landscapes but portraits, street or general snapshots. Not using an in-camera meter will teach you all about light, lighting, exposure and shutter speed considerations -- especially if you write down all tech details for each shot so you can review the results later and learn from mistakes or unfortunate decisions. Some early challenges will be filter factors, bellows compensation, back lighting and bounce flash metering.

<p>

By the way, my multiple cameras recommendation still stands. There is no magic camera for everything.

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mamiya 6,7 or 7II rangefinder system, i guess 3 lenses would fit in that budget. It's my dream;if i win the lottery, i will get that. Alternatively, i've heard good things about Bronica's similar RF system but that's 6x4.5 .
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Basically, don't spend that amount of cash on mf unless your willing to make

the personal investment to recoup your expenditure either from a standpoint

of stock or print sales or from having the personal satisfaction of multiple large

images hanging on your wall and in your portfolio. Even then a MUCH lower

priced camera system can generally suffice. If your needs are for professional

usuage, your barking up the wrong format, or don't have the cash you need to

be competitive.

 

I've heard the "travel" and "setup studio" replies before and it doesn't fly. If you

really knew what studio's are making, what they have to spend to stay in

business and what they are using for equipment you'd be singing a different

tune.

 

I personally feel that amatuers and advanced amatuers spend way too much

money on photographic equipment that never gets fully utilized. Be smarter.

Buy a lower priced system if you absoutely must, < $1000, spend another

grand to 1500 on travel to actually make pictures to sell, and bank the rest.

Don't blow it all on equipment that you'll never get money out of if you have to,

and don't quit your day job; and sorry if this reply seems a little stark. Btw, I

have 3 inexpensive mf systems and one hassy system to sell that will do you

right.

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Wayne, I do see what you are saying... and I am not looking to set up a "bring the family in, and I will put on a funny hat to make your kid smile" kind of studio. I am working on stuff for portfolio, and gallery , (as well as my own home) most resently i have been looking at a hassy 501cm system, please email me with what stuff you have. Thanks for all input.

 

Justin

jkroman462@hotmail.com

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