f._schall Posted July 10, 1998 Share Posted July 10, 1998 We are trying to shoot fashion/model images in downtown Chicago Loop area at night. Previously we have shot nice daytime images with ambient light. Now however, we need advice on what continuous lighting systems would match the best natural light. We have appropriate battery powerpacks to keep the lights lit but need to know what the pros find best to simulate soft, natural lighting to compliment the night city lights. HMI's? Floods? Tungstens? Which film should we be using (120 roll) with what lights ??? What's the way to go here? ....Thanks...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m.a._chojnowski Posted July 15, 1998 Share Posted July 15, 1998 Frank, Any lighting will work, as long as it's softened properly. Any good Novatron, Norman, etc. setup will do. Even a couple of Vivitar 283's slaved will work. Just put diffusers in front of them, or bounce them off an umbrella, keeping in mind the power setting and your distance from the model. You can also use filters, but they'll soften the background as well. Don't worry total about exposure, just make sure the strobes have the proper exposure, then practice with shutter speed settings to get the right background exposure. Happy shooting. MAC ~~~ The Camera Rehab Center Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted November 18, 1998 Share Posted November 18, 1998 HMI is the way to go, but these are not battery powered, They are daylight balanced. Rent a grip truck and a a generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_p Posted November 18, 1998 Share Posted November 18, 1998 Is there some reason you don't want to use strobe and prefer continual light sources?<p> Strobe, for people shooting, I think is the way to go. Perfectly balanced for EPP, E 100s, Provia; any 120 slide film you care to use. Also perfect for any color neg film. A Hensel or Norman 400b are very portable, and, with a fast shutter speed, will easily overpower off color ambient light from streetlights, etc., that may throw color balance off.<p> HMI lights are really expensive to rent or to own ans you will need a generator to keep them going unless you are shooting right outside your front door and can run extension cord. I know of no battery pack for HMIs. HMIs are also HOT, delicate, heavy (each light requires its own transformer), bulky, expensive; a real bother. I wpuld only bother with them if you were shooting cine film or with certain kinds of digital scan backs (although the scan back WOULD NOT work for models wearing fashions downtown at night). For still photography, Tungsten lights are a cheaper alternative. They are not truly flicker free (like HMI) but constant enough for still photography. These also require a generator, but you can rent a smaller, gas powered model. You can even buy tungsten bulbs with standard light bulb sockets and put them in cheap reflectors from the hardware store; not the most elegant solution but cheap. I have used Tota and Omni lights to shoot portraits with ISO 50 film and full blue gels on my lights. I recall that I had to ask my subject to keep very still; in order to get f8 or so I needed a shutter speed of 1/4 or 1/8 a second as I recall. They are not the brightest light source. You can use them with Tungsten balanced film with no filtration. If you want to use them with daylight film,; you will need to either put an 80A wratten filter on your lens (eats up about 2 stops of your exposure) or blue gels like the Rosco 3202 full blue (eats up a lot of your light). I prefer to gel the lights because the 80a really darkens the viewfinder of my slr. Some people say if you are using color neg to forget the blue filters and correct at the lab; I think that is a bad idea.<p> If you want to shoot outdoors at night and need to be portable, I think battery powered strobe like the Normans or the Hensel is the way to go. I have even used a Vivitar 283 with a Quantum battery pack with good effect. With tungsten or HMIs you will also probably need lots of permits from the Police, property owners and public officials; if you use the portable battery pack, depending upon where you are shooting you can be done before anyone gets bothered. If these photos are for a client (and not just for your personal portfolio), you will need property releases as well.<p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now