need operating instructions for Zeiss Ikophot lightmeter

[stefan_fielding_isaacs]

Hi, I just bought a working Zeiss Ikophot lightmeter. It looks to be

a fairly late model (because it has DIN 24 = ASA 160).

I'm looking for instructions and I wonder if anyone had them in HTML

or Word format.

 

Failing that, it looks like one takes a reading on the lower dial

(just a single needle) and turns the large outer dial red numbers to

match the needle reading.

 

Then (having already turned the inner dial to set the ASA reading to

one's film speed), one can read the f-stop from the top of the outer

dial and match it to the corresponding exposure length.

 

Is this basically correct?

 

It looks like there is an adjustment screw on the right hand side of

the meter as well.

 

Any help with this is appreciated. I want to use it with both my

Leica and my Rolleiflex. I plan to check it with a more modern AE-1

meter as appropriate to calibrate it in all light conditions.

 

thanks, Stefan

[mike_elek]

Um, believe it or not, I have instructions for this. I bought it from a guy with the meter and transparent plastic case for $20. Then I bought a very nice 6x4.5 Ikonta for $30.

 

Anyway, I'll scan the instructions and make it available as a PDF.

[mike_elek]

OK, I had some free time. It's finished.

 

Send me an e-mail. It's about 1.5MB, so your e-mail must be able to handle an attachment that size.

[lesged]

I loved that meter. I bought mine in Copenghagen in 1955 when I bought my brand new--in the red box--Leica IIf. I used it till I got my first Gossen Super Pilot and deserted selenium for CdS. Don't know what happened to the Ikomat; miss that fine case, gold snake chain and the sliding incident attachment. Fine example of Zeiss design.

My model only had a DIN window, but a Copenhagen photoshop replaced the face plate and voila! I had both a DIN and ASA window and corresponding numbers underneath them. It was all magic for me.

 

BTW, I have a second Gossen Super Pilot, but use a Weston Master 6 that I keep in a soft leather case with a belt loop. It's for my classic cameras without meters, when the sunny f16 rule doesn't apply.

 

I think you'll love it Stephen. Delightfully simple and elegant to boot. Hope I'm not boosting auction prices. High praise for any photo item can do just that.

 

Enjoy!

[berk_sirman2]

Glad this question came up since I have a question about my ikophot (inherited from my maternal grandfather along with his Retina IIa)

 

When I set the DIN to 21, the number on the top window matches the EV value of the suggested reading. But when the DIN is anything but 21, it does not.

 

For example: DIN 21, 1/250, f/11 = 15. (EV=15, so far so good)

 

same light level, DIN 24, 1/250, f/16. But the top window reads 16. Not 15 as it should since the light level has not changed.

 

Any ideas?

 

By the way, mine is an early model with early shutter speed numbers (1/25, 1/50 etc) and DIN 21 matches ASA 40

[lesged]

Stefan, please excuse my sloppy editing. First off: I addressed you as Stephen, mille pardons; Ikomat should have read Ikophot- the subject meter of this thread. I know the EV system was introduced by 1955, which I always liked and others find a pain. I think I had an EV readout on my Ikophot meter, but I'm not sure.

 

My Rollei E3.5 Planar has the EV system, and I use it a lot. So did my Olympus 35 SP, but I no longer have it. I gave away to a member of this forum.

[silent1]

Berk, EV is dependent on film speed. When you change the speed from DIN 21 to DIN 24 (one stop) the EV of the same light increases by one stop as well, as it should.

[berk_sirman2]

Donald,

 

100ASA, 1/250, f/11 = 200ASA, 1/250, f/16 = EV15 right?

 

According to my ikophot 200ASA, 1/250, f/16 is EV16, 400ASA, 1/500, f/16 is EV17 and so on. EV numbers only match the suggested shutter speed/f-stop combination on DIN 21.

[david_m]

Most light-meters are really easy to use. On the Ikophot, you first set the speed of your film. Then you just point the meter at the subject (for reflecte3d reading with diffuser removed) or at the light source (for incident readings with the diffuser in place), match the pointer to the needle, and read the exposure off the dial. Nothing could be simpler. They are great meters and almost always work and are more or less accurate. You should always check an old meter against a known accurate meter before relying on it for critical work. I guess Zeiss used very good components because almost all other meters of that age have ceased to work.

[stefan_fielding_isaacs]

Thank you all for your help.

 

As far as the differing ASA/DIN readings on your meter, I believe I just read in another forum that the ASA/DIN scale was recalculated in 1957/58 and moved about 1 1/3 stops. I'm sorry I can't be more precise, but that could be part of your problem?

 

Again, thanks for all the quick info. Great forum!

[stefan_fielding_isaacs]

BTW, I should say that I bought it primarily because the aesthetics were so nice. I was contemplating the purchase of a Zeiss Super Ikonta B (I want a folding 6x6) and thought that it would be a nice synergy to have an Ikophot from the same era.

 

I think the EV scale is cool. I don't use it on my 3.5F but it's still a nice idea!

 

cheers, Stefan

[nicolas_douez]

I have one too, got for $10.00. Nice - and the leather case has such a soft patina. The only problem I can see is with the light diffusor for incident metering that is not firmly enough hold in place IMHO.<div></div>

[albert_zinn]

I also have acquired an old meter collection the same way you have. My pride is the Ikophot- it's such a beautiful expample of 50's German quality. Unfortunately, mine is no longer accurate and I don't use it, but I can't bring myself to discard it -it's just too pretty!

For what it's worth.

[james_ollinger]

<p>A copy of the instructions is also here: <a href="http://www.davidrichert.com/zeiss_ikophot_light_meter.htm">http://www.davidrichert.com/zeiss_ikophot_light_meter.htm</a></p>