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Polaroid back for F5


ike k

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Yes, I'm going old school with this pola back (sorry no DSlr yet this year). And some questions of which

one should I get the one with focus control or without? is it sharder to focus the one without control?

just like manual lens control? does polaroid still make this kind of film? I'm setting a small studio at

home and I think this will be a good item to add on my gear.

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I shoot limited 35mm, but have never heard of a focussing polaroid back, so I am confused

about that comment. I know that there are at least two manufacturers of most polaroid

backs-the camera manufacturer and the NPC backs, sometimes one is more focussed that

the other, but I just haven't heard of one being adjustable.

 

Yes, they still make polaroid for the 35mm polaroid backs. It is the same used with medium

format backs, which also waste quite a bit of the space on the film. Usually 35mm backs

allow two exposures per sheet, so you can bracket your test--you just need to learn how to

pull the film to allow for both.

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35mm Pola backs are lousey quality and cost a fortune. For the money buy a D50 or D70

and proof digitally. You can zoom in to check focus and lighting, have a usable digital

image and probably save money. That said, I'm sure somebody is dumping one

somewhere, but they really are worthless for any sort of real proofing. Digital or bracket

like a rock star.

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I really question the usefulness of Polaroid for a 35mm camera.

The image is so small, its literally 24x36mm. I used to do

photo finishing mostly for PR photographers. One of the products

I offered was 2x, 48x72mm, enlarged proofs on 8.5x11 paper. I

made these with a 4x5 glass negative carrier, 6 up, and

three ring punched them for customers who wanted this. I under

priced these proofs at first. When I breathed that I might

withdraw the product one customer said, Charge what you

need to make a profit but dont stop or well find

another lab that will make these. I studied my methods and

improved my procedures and increased the price to make a profit

at a cost the customer liked. This particular customer became my

best customer.<br>

<br>

The point is a 24x36mm image, Polaroid or proof is so small its

really not that useful. I started offering the 2x proofs

originally because I noticed that customers ordered several 5x7

print, then chose one frame and ordered an 8x10 for publication.<br>

<br>

I think a better solution since a DSLR appears to be out is to

use a separate Polaroid camera. I dont know the models so I

cant recommend one.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<br>

<br>

PS: I cant help myself here. I never used Polaroid much due

to the cost. I learn the zone system and got what I needed very

accurately in B&W. I have however been stung when shooting

Velvia because I didnt anticipate the contrast of this

particular film. If I needed to shoot slides with my F5 and

really felt I needed Polaroids my D2H would do the

honors. Given the cost of Polaroid film and the lack of an

interchangeable back (like a Hassie) for the F5 Id really

like to recommend a clean, not necessarily mint, Nikon D2H. I

think in the long run this would be more economical. Polaroid is

not the same to my eye as color negative, sides or conventional

B&W. Maybe Im all wet but I do not think the

translation is any better from Polaroid to various films than

digital to various films while the cost of digital can't be beat.<br>

<br>

I had an NPC back for my Hasselblad but and I did find the 56x56mm

image large enough to be useful but really didnt use the

back that much. I donated it to a school.<br>

<br>

Id rather use a Nikon D70s with an 18~70/3.5~5.6 kit lens

for Polaroids than a NPC back for an F5. Those who

know my comments on the D70 know Im not a fan of this

camera. The coming Nikon D80 addresses many of my displeasures

with the D70 and D70s. I know that is months away. Still I'd

reather buy a D70s with kit lens than dump the same cash on

Polariod film.<br>

<br>

Sorry, Im rambling.

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Future availability of film stock is definatly an issue, especialy if the back uses anything other than the 69x polaroid packs for Mamiya and Hasselblad backs.

 

A polaroid 696 pack costs about 20 dollars including shipping. 1 pack = 10 shots @ 2 bucks a pop. That will burn a hole in pocket pretty fast.

 

A D70 hooked up to a laptop or TV will do the same job. Though i would prefer the D200 or a any other camera that goes down to ISO 100.

 

Plus you can skip the whole stopwatch and thermometer crap. (each polaroid takes about a minute to develop)

 

(or you can set the F5 to ISO 200 and compensate -1 step.)

 

My 2c. Save your money, use a good flashmeter and experience unless your working commecially and need instant proofing.

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