Canon Flash and Weddings

[iskandar_azaman___kuala_lu]

Didn't want to hijack a previous thread but the ETTL thing with

Canon got me thinking. With regards to using a Canon flash (eg.

550ex, 420ex or 580ex), how do you cope with the problem of not

being able to recompose?

 

Currently I still get good (to my knowledge) results from

recomposing just a tad so i guess the exposure wouldn't suffer that

much. But for weddings would the centre weighted metering that

nadine suggested by using custom function 4 work a lot better in a

wedding situation?

 

I'm particularly interested in how the likes of Marc use the Canon

flash system to their best advantage. Since my camera has got 5

horizontal focus points and 2 vertical focus points above and below

the centre point it's kind of hard to get a nice composition unless

you get the subject dead centre.

 

I'm currently using an EOS 33, 550ex and a 420ex for back up by the

way. I also keep my Sto-fen on the flash most of the time.

[picturesque]

A couple of things--first, E-TTL implementation is built into the body, so anyone using a Canon film or digital body and any E-TTL capable flash (Canon or non) would potentially have the same problem with focus and recompose.

 

Second, although theoretically, E-TTL should function the same in all E-TTL capable flashes and bodies, it apparently doesn't. Different bodies (models with different number of focusing points) and different brands of flashes don't act the same either, even though they are supposed to. Reason I mention it is to point out that what works for one person won't necessarily work for another, sometimes even if they have the same equipment, because of different shooting methods.

 

The custom function 4 thing is difficult to adapt to, but I have read some reports that say it works better. Whether or not it works for you only you can decide.

 

When I had my Elan IIe for weddings, I basically just rated the film one stop lower to create a margin of error for the flash, which tended to underexpose, although I tried to be careful where the focus points landed. Sometimes, I used thyristor flash instead--my flash could do this also.

 

I tried testng and trying to predict what E-TTL would do, but I gave up after a while. Besides the focus point bias, it seemed very sensitive to bright spots in the scene and always, always underexposed, no matter that the active focus point was on 18% gray. All my tests were done on slide film.

 

Now, I use two Canon RT bodies. Very old technology, but guess what--their old fashioned, plain TTL metering is great. The RT has only one focus point, but for the majority of both flash and ambient exposures, it is right on or very close (+1/3 stop). Of course, you still need to compensate for light/dark subjects, severe backlighting, etc., but that has always been the case. I can focus and recompose all I want. I don't need to downrate my film. People say the one focus point/older AF technology is terrible, but I find it way faster than doing FEL. Maybe I'd change my mind if I got my hands on a top of the line latest model, or was forced to work with slow lenses, but it works OK for me now.

 

I have read several reports of people who try to have one of the active points land on the face, (light colored skin being about 1 stop brighter than middle gray), while dialing in the compensation. Then there are some who claim they have no trouble and things are great with their Canon x model and flash. There is a thread in the Canon forum now that talks about how the 580EX even improves E-TTL flash with the 10D, which does not have E-TTL II. Maybe it improves flash with older film bodies too(?).

[jimstrutz]

Using cF #4 to move AF start to the * button allows you to pre-focus, and since the AF isn't engaged after you stop pressing the * button, the flash metering defaults to the wider coverage of something like center weighted metering. As long as your subject isn't too far off center when the flash goes off, it works pretty well. Getting used to have the AF start assigned to the * button is another issue, but most people don't find that a big problem. It's not something that a lot of wedding photographers do but a lot of other photographers do it all the time.

 

The 300D/DRebel (and all Rebel class film bodies) don't have the option of using CF #4, even with the Russian hack.

 

You can also use FEL and recompose, but most subjects at a reception think you took the photo as soon as they see the pre-flash and then look away right as you shoot.

 

I think the best option is to preselect an AF point for the off center subject. This forces the flash metering to consider the area right around this active AF point and metering is much more reliable. The key is getting used to anticipating what AF point you're going to need. But once you start thinking this way it goes pretty smooth.

[derek_c.]

I don't understand why you have to have your subject in the center when you have 6 other points.<br>

I don't think you are getting full benefit of owning your system.<br>

I would re-read the manual if I were you. Good luck.

[ben_rubinstein___mancheste]

Youre shooting film, don't sweat it. I was shooting weddings with two elan II's (the model before yours), and never had a problem. I always use focus recompose. I used to apply FEC of + 1 stop if there was a lot of white, i.e. the bride, in the pic but otherwise didn't bother.

 

Now I've gone digital it's a whole different ballgame...

[iskandar_azaman___kuala_lu]

Derek.

 

I think you misunderstood the question. I do use all focus points. However the placements of the focus points for the Elan 7 is 5 horizontal and 2 verticals above and below the centre focusing point.

 

I usually place the subject according to the rule of thirds but there is no focus point on those areas.

 

So how do you suggest i focus then?

 

It really sucks when someone just suggests you reread the manual when you've gone through it a hundred times and just want to know what other people do to solve the recompose problem. Which is not in the manual by the way. FEL won't do due to the aforementioned problem of subjects thingking you've already taken the shot.

[greg_tan]

I have both the EOS 3 and Elan 7 with 550 ex and 420 ex. I bought the EOS 3 because of the increased number of focus points which allows you to place the active point on a person's face which I do all the time (also the spot meter helps a lot). But in comparison to the Elan 7, I don't see any difference! Even when I did the focus recompose with the Elan 7 I didn't have a problem. God bless film. The only time I had a problem was when I messed up. It was a group wedding shot where the guys were wearing all Navy white. Did the shot, then oops, had flash underexposure and when processed the picture was grainy. I don't think you'll have a problem as long as you compensate for extremes of light or dark.