KODAK 3A (or similar) conversion to 120

[old school]

Has anyone modified one of the old kodak 3A Folding Cameras (as

described in http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/postcard.html) to use 120 Film

giving a 6x14 or similar negative. If so, could you share your

experiences, how you made the film conversion, problems etc, and do

you have any example photos to share of both your conversion and any

results you have gotten from the converted camera. I am thinking of

buying one of these cameras and doing the conversion, but would like

to see that it will be worth it and learn from others experiences.

 

Many Thanks

 

Stuart

[dwane1]

I respool a roll of 120 film onto the paper backing from a roll of 122 roll film in the dark room. Then I load the film and run it through a 3A camera, using the numbers on the paper backing when taking pictures. After shooting I unload the film again in the darkroom. No need to convert the camera.

 

My favorite camera for this is an Ansco No. 9 Buster Brown. I find it's easier (for me) to use because of the larger finder, making it easier to center the scene in the finder. I also use a Kodak No. 3A Folding Brownie, which is a little more difficult to focus for me. But then the red bellows with the brass trim and polished wooden bed on the Kodak really makes this a fun camera to use.

 

Be aware that focusing will be a problem - you have to estimate the distance and zone focus the camera. I use a 400 film, stop the lens down as far as possible, put the camera on a tripod, and use the slowest shutter speed consistent with the f/stop.

[john_shriver]

It probably is best to make a mask with the 6x14cm opening. Make it out of brass or aluminum, preferrably reasonbly thin. If it moves the focal plane, you should recalibrate the focusing scale. If you don't use a mask, I suspect the film will tend to curl, and the edges will be out of focus.

 

You could certainly use a 122 take-up spool, and use some tubing on the feed side to hold the 120 feed spool. But then you will have to count turns to advance the film, since the backing paper won't even show in the window. This is the advantage of using 120 film on 122 backing paper. (However, the 3A cameras can beat up the 122 backing paper pretty good if they don't track perfectly.) Since there's no backing paper behind the red window, cover it with black tape.

 

In terms of choosing a 3A camera, get one with a decent lens. The Kodak Juniors, Hawkeyes, and Brownies will have cheap lenses. You want at least a Rapid Rectillinear, but the Kodak Anastigmats are better. There are f/7.7 and f/6.3 ones. I just won (haven't received yet) a UK Kodak 3A Special with an f/5.3 Zeiss Tessar.

 

Also, while the simple Kodak "ball bearing" shutter is very reliable (and easy to clean up), the 1/25 - 1/50 - 1/100 set of shutter speeds are limiting. The better 3A models have "real" shutters, but they will definitely need cleaning and lubing. I've had to clean and lube both an Ilex Universal and a Kodamatic. (The latter required troubleshooting of someone else's botched reassembly.)

 

Oh, the later 3A's with synthetic bellows usually have shot bellows. Earlier ones with genuine leather bellows will probably be fine. Or, you can get replacement synthetic bellows from frendakfurnari on eBay, size H.

 

If you don't care that the leather has fallen off various surfaces of your 3A, it will be a LOT cheaper. But remember that they are NOT rare (contrary to the assertions of eBay sellers), so don't spend a lot on one. (Even that Tessar one I got was under $40!) The Model C version (curved bed front) is the most common and cheapest.

 

I shoot my 3A's with either old 122 film, or with sheet film in plate holders on the Combination Back (turns it into a view camera).

[josphy]

http://www.geocities.com/josphy/

[david_m]

Just curious..... how do you enlarge and print a 6x14 negative?