Contax T3 - User Comments, Discussion

[john_mccormack]

Re: "...you cannot step up close to your backlit subject to lock

exposure without also being forced to also focus at a close distance."

 

<p>

 

Yes, you can. You can set focus and exposure independently in a

couple of ways:

 

<p>

 

1. Lock focus with the AFL button and then walk up to the subject and

set exposure. Return to original postion and shoot. CF 5 lets you set

the T3 so that focus but *not* exposure is locked when using the AFL

button.

 

<p>

 

2. Lock focus with the MF button. Repeat as in 1. above.

 

<p>

 

3. Using standard AF lock exposure on a mid gray subject (grass,

pavement) at the *same* distance as the subject by pressing shutter

button 1/2 way, recompose and release shutter. Any P&S can be used in

this way to fool the meter.

 

<p>

 

Or, just set exposure compensation for backlit scenes. +1.5 - +2

should be fine.

[john_mccormack]

Here's an example of using the T3 AFL button using f/2.8 in aperture

priority and shooting through a chain link fence in harsh midday

lighting. The workers on this site were not comfortable with having

their picture taken - maybe they thought I was an inspector or

something, so I waited until they lost interest in me before shooting

this grab shot. Image is only about 1/6 of the full frame. See:

 

<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/253096

 

<p>

 

A couple of sky shots showing minimal (no?) light fall off from the

T3 are also in this gallery:

 

<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=122840

[ccrevasse]

John, about your construction workers shot -- you list the aperture

as f2.8 and shutter speed as 1/1200 (?). I guess I'm still confused

about what shutter speeds are available with the T3, as I thought

1/500 was the maximum shutter speed with larger apertures when using

aperture-priority exposure. Are the full range of shutter speeds

available at all apertures, or is there some limitation? Thanks.

[john_mccormack]

Chris,

 

<p>

 

You are correct. 1/1200 shutter speed is only available in P mode, not

aperture priority. In aperture priority, the fastest shutter speed is

1/500.

 

<p>

 

I put the "?" mark in the image caption because I thought at the time

the shutter speed readout was blinking when I grabbed that shot.

I *thought* that indicated 1/1200. If it was blinking it was

indicating overexposure, but I can't really remember. The fact that

the T3 only indicates a *range* of shutter speeds in the viewfinder

can be frustrating at times.

[philip_bonner]

John,

 

<p>

 

I thought that the 1200 speed was available at f 8 and smaller

apertures in aperture priority mode.

 

<p>

 

I figured the shutter could operate faster when the lens was closed

down and demanding less travel.

 

<p>

 

I did not realize that 500+ speeds were not available in aperture

priority mode/only available in program mode.

 

<p>

 

That full face photo is great. I am going to have to try some of

those rather then stepping back for standard head and shoulder

portraits. That is, when my T3 comes back from repair.

[john_mccormack]

Re: "I thought that the 1200 speed was available at f 8 and smaller

apertures in aperture priority mode. "

 

<p>

 

Hmmm, I think you're right about the f/8 and 1/1200. I went back and

looked at the manual - again. The confusion on my part was in relying

on the brief note about P mode on the specification's page (page 62)

without examining the exposure control table for the aperture priority

mode (diagram on page 37).

 

<p>

 

If we look at the exposure control table on page 37, it's clear that

in Aperture Priority mode the shutter speed will increase above 1/500

to a maximum of 1/1200 when f/8 is selected AND the light value is at

EV 16 or above.

 

<p>

 

What I don't quite understand is the asterisked footnote on p. 37 that

states: "* If the available light on the subject is too bright for the

pre-programmed automatic-linkage range, the program will automatically

shift to get a correct exposure." There is no asterisk anywhere else

on the page, but I think they're restating the obvious - that the

shutter speed will increase with increases in the EV level. Maybe I'm

missing something. Anyone care to comment?

[ccrevasse]

John, that footnote sounds mostly like gibberish to me, but here's my

guess anyway: if the camera can't select a fast enough shutter speed

given the available light and the aperture you've selected, then the

camera will override your aperture selection and close down the

aperture to achieve correct exposure. If my theory is correct, then

you can't overexpose a shot except by using exposure compensation.

[charles_stewart1]

That sounds right, Chris, and fits with the complaint you sometimes

read about this camera - that you can't select a wide aperture for

selective focus and get the corresponding high shutter speed if that

speed is above 1/500. I believe you are interpreting the footnote

right, although I suppose we'd have to ask a Canon tech. person: if

you have ev 16 with ASA 100, for example, and choose f4, it would

have to change your aperture to f8 or smaller, since f4 @ 1/500 would

be overexposure, and it won't use the higher range unless you're at 8

or more. (Whew.) The resultant exposure would be "correct", but

would spoil the selective focus effect you planned for by choosing f

4. Exposure comp. would probably be the easiest way to overexpose

intentionally, but I guess you could also meter lock on a darker area

of the scene to force the higher exposure.

[philip_bonner]

I've never heard the complaint before that the camera comandeers the

user-selected aperture setting when the metered EV is too bright.

 

<p>

 

I could be splitting hairs but the wording of the annotation on p. 37

stating, "too bright for PRE-PROGRAMMED automatic linkage," leads me

to believe they could still be referring to the Program mode (and not

aperture priority mode), operation of the camera.

 

<p>

 

Why offer the feature of a user selectable aperture priority mode if

the camera over-rides it and reverts back to Program mode?

 

<p>

 

Yet, by virtue of the fact that this annotation is found in the

manual in the aperture priority mode instructions section, it appears

to apply to aperture priority mode operation of the camera.

 

<p>

 

I'll see if I can email an inquiry to Contax for clarification.

 

<p>

 

I finally received my SA-2 flash bracket ($149) which has a shoe for

attaching the TLA 200 flash.

 

<p>

 

I learned today that the repair estimate for my T3 is $300 smackers.

[john_mccormack]

Re: "I could be splitting hairs but the wording of the annotation on

p. 37 stating, "too bright for PRE-PROGRAMMED automatic linkage,"

leads me to believe they could still be referring to the Program mode

(and not aperture priority mode), operation of the camera."

 

<p>

 

It wouldn't be the first time that a camera manual had misplaced

references. There was a recent rant on the ContaxG list about

misplaced references about using fill flash on the G cameras. Whole

sections were misplaced, leaving users totally confused, not to say

misinformed.

 

<p>

 

Anyway, my T3 continues to perform admirably. I just shot a roll

of Kodak T400CN B&W and the results were excellent (printed on Kodak

B&W paper by a good processor.) I'll post some scans in a few days.

 

<p>

 

For a test I tried holding a 58mm polarizer in front of the

lens but my technique was flawed; finger tips and filter ring are

visible on the prints. :( Guess I'll invest in a filter adaptor.

 

<p>

 

Phil, let us know how the flash bracket works and if you hear anything

from Contax on the "too bright for PRE-PROGRAMMED automatic linkage"

question.

[charles_stewart1]

Phil:

I've been scouring the web for reviews of the camera, and can't cite

exactly where I read it, but one or two reviewers said something like:

"weaknesses: have to use smaller apertures for the faster shutter

speeds; too bad, since fast speeds are appropriate for wide

apertures..." I was speculating on the meaning of the footnote in

the light of that. A fairly minor flaw, in any case, when you

compare the camera with the competition and consider its intended

use, which is not primarily slow and deliberate work for carefully

controlled results, like a view camera.

[andrew_schank]

I just came back to this thread after several months, and its great

to see so much interest in the T3. I find I take mine with me more

often than any other camera I've owned, and am still totally blown

away by the image quality. To clarify a few things I saw above, the

high speeds are only available at f8.0 and smaller. What is very

special about this camera that no one has mentioned, is that the twin

shutter eliminates the dreadful corner fall off at high speeds/small

apertures. I took some shots at the beach with a Rollei Prego and

Yashica T4, and it looked like I used a matte box the corner fall off

was so bad. The Contax tech rep told me they also had the same

problem with the T2, and that is why they changed the shutter design

on the T3. Shoot away in bright sun if you need to, even with 400 or

800 speed film. I set my default for focusing the lens as soon as you

press 1/2 way on the shutter, and the response when fully pressing

the button is nearly instant. The camera is so quiet, when shooting

outdoors I am not sure it actually went off sometimes. I have

checked out the G flash set up, and it is kind of funny looking and

too expensive/bulky for my uses. The built in flash is more powerful

than it looks, and covers the 35mm lens very well. I use mine without

flash whenever possible, and love the "Leica like" natural light

shots it is capable of. I can see the bright lines in my camera with

no problem-I am not sure what people were referring to. As far as AF

lock and AE lock at the same time, this is not a problem either. If

you hold the button down to step one, it locks focus and exposure.

So if you need to focus lock with exposure, do it that way instead of

with the AF lock button. I have shot right into the sun with no

noticeable flare, so a hood will not be on my want list. I like the

small case it came with,(I wear it on my belt) and enjoy not having a

camera hanging on my neck looking like a tourist. Best 699.00 I've

spent on a 35mm camera or lens.

[andrew_schank]

Someone mentioned above "I did not realize that 500+ speeds were not

available in aperture priority mode/only available in program mode"

They are in fact available in aperture priority mode, but ONLY at f8,

F11, or f16.

[philip_bonner]

Charles: I speculate that the higher speeds are available only with

8,11,16 apertures because the shutter leaves have to travel only

about half the distance that they would need to travel at aperture

2.8; the shorter the travel/the faster the available shutter speed.

The graphs in the manual show that the 1200 is achieved at 16

aperture and about 1000 speed at an 11 aperture opening.

 

<p>

 

I also saw this speculation in a consumer review (not

photographyreview.com) with a editor's annotation confirming it's

accuracy.

 

<p>

 

I'll see if I can find the review again and post it in it's entirety.

[philip_bonner]

Andrew: My wife has the Leica Minilux zoom which also delivers

beautiful pictures; particularly people shots. The zoom makes it easy

and neat work to frame individuals and small groups at a gathering or

in a roomfull of people. I could be mistaken but the Leica lens seems

to lend a cetain luminescence to flesh tones.

 

<p>

 

On the other hand the T3 is faster to deploy and to shoot; especially

with the lens focusing set to activate at half shutter release.

Although I like the Leica's bigger heft and fit/feel in my hands, I

prefer the T3 for it's truly pocket-size compactness, speed (ease of

use) and wide flexability.

 

<p>

 

The crisp sharpness of the T3's images is simply terrific to behold

and iut's images compare favorably to any images that I have taken

including the Leica and any SLR prime lenses I have ever used.

 

<p>

 

John described comparing Lieca Minilux and T3 images as being like

comparing two kinds of gourmet ice cream. Both are equally pleasing

and have their own subtle unique quality.

 

<p>

 

Given the choice I reach for the T3 more often due to it's larger,

brighter and more comfortable viewfinder, plus, speed and ease of

deployment and shooting. I can get from Point "A," camera in the

pouch, to point "B," image captured, twice as fast with the T3 as

with the Leica Minilux zoom.

 

<p>

 

In fact since it's compactness facilitates always carrying it with

me, it had quickly became second nature to reach for the T3 on my

belt, capture the image and stow it in nearly one seamless motion.

 

<p>

 

In sum, by becoming second nature to carry and to use, and by

delivering 1st class images, IMHO the T3 most successfully fulfills

the role of a point and shoot camera.

 

<p>

 

The flash bracket is suprisingly small. My intention is to have it

for use in photo sessions where I'll be taking multiple shots - like

of my 2 year old scooting around or at gatherings where I need more

range and better fill. We'll see how it delivers versus the Leica

with it's separate flash which does nicely.

 

<p>

 

(Actually I may have subconsciously gotten the separate T3 flash and

bracket to just to see how it would measure up against the Leica

Minilux with separate flash).

[mike_johnston]

John McCormack, thanks for posting those example pictures at

your site. I think I know what's going on with the sky shot. Was

the sun on your left? If the sky is lighter on the left side of the

picture and darker on the right side, it has the effect of

minimizing the apparent light falloff on the left but exaggerating it

on the right. This can make it look like there's "more" light falloff

on the right side when actually the camera's falloff is

symmetrical.

 

<p>

 

The higher shutter speeds only at smaller apertures are typical

of small leaf shutters. I don't know if the T3's is a two-blade

shutter, but I believe the Konica Hexar's is, and that's what keeps

the Hexar's maximum shutter speed at 1/250th. You can actually

chart the opening time, the fully open time, and the closing them

when testing a leaf shutter. Obviously, the wider it has to open,

the greater a percentage of the final exposure is taken up with

opening and closing; it can greatly exacerbate mechanical (as

opposed to optical) falloff. On the Contax T2, they cleverly "hid"

the problem by limiting the high (1/500th) shutter speed to

program mode--in aperture-priority it was limited to 1/125th. The

miniature leaf shutter on the T3 must be very good indeed, to

offer 1/500th speeds on f/2.8 and higher speeds at f/8 and

smaller. It's an impressive spec.

 

<p>

 

I can't wait to try this camera, I've heard so many good things

about it.

[john_mccormack]

Double-Between-Lens-Shutter: How It Works

 

<p>

 

Thanks to Bob Shell of _Shutterbug_ magazine for providing an

explanation of the T3's double-between-lens shutter. Bob says it

really isn't two shutters in the sense that mental image might be.

It's really more like one shutter with two sets of blades. What makes

achieving really fast speeds with a leaf shutter difficult is that the

mechanism must open the blades all the way, bring them to a stop, and

then reverse direction to close them.

 

<p>

 

The double-between-lens-shutter has one set of blades which are

closed between photos and one set which remain open. When you take a

picture the first set opens and stays open, and the second set

closes. So neither set has to change directions during the exposure.

When the camera advances the film the two sets of blades are returned

to their original positions for the next photo. Bob said this is

possibly not a 100% accurate description, but is how he understands

it to work.

 

<p>

 

Hope this helps.

[robert goldstein]

Please help me understand why my T2 has such wicked light

fall-off when used in aperture priority mode with a small

aperture. In that mode the aperture is determined by the blades

of the lens diaphragm, but the leaf shutter still has to go through

its full range to open and close. Does this results in relatively

more light falling on the center of the film frame?

 

<p>

 

Through experience, I have learned to avoid aperture priority with

the T2. In Program mode, there is less light fall-off. The lens

itself is extraordinarily good, and if it weren't for this issue, I

would feel no desire to move up to the T3.

[philip_bonner]

I have not been able to find the T3 review that I had mentioned in my

last post. In it the reviewer also stated that the light fall off

problem of the T2 was corrected in the T3 by the new type of shutter

described, above, by John McCormack.

 

<p>

 

Miss my T3 badly. Can't wait to get it back.

[philip_bonner]

A favorite shot from the T3.

 

<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/259510

 

<p>

 

My 1st upload. I reformated a 20MB tiff image to 200KB JPG. I noticed

that it appears to have lost it's stunning "Contax" snap and clarity.

 

<p>

 

Would appreciate any suggestions on resizing images for upload so

they keep their clarity.

[mike_johnston]

Has everybody seen the black one? I don't think they're here in

the U.S. yet.

 

<p>

 

http://www.kyocera.co.jp/news/2001/0104/0402-e.asp

[andrew_schank]

Looks nice in black, looks nice in silver. I wonder if the black

finish is as tough against abrasion as the silver.

[skyler_timmons]

An exposure/EV chart may answer some of the questions regarding

speeds available in aperture priority (see section 5):

 

<p>

 

http://contax.kyocera.co.jp/product/T3/t301.htm

 

<p>

 

or

 

<p>

 

altavista tries to make a translation from Japanese...

[philip_bonner]

I posted a favorite shot from ther T3 next to a favorite shot from my

Minilux zoom at;

 

<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=128499

 

<p>

 

At these resolutions I do not know if they will be any help.

[john_mccormack]

<html>

 

<head>

</head>

 

<body>

 

<p> I've been shooting T400CN B&W in the the T3. A few images are

posted in my T3 folder.  <a

href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=122840">Click

here</a>. Again the scan don't do justice to the prints, which are

some of thesharpest I've ever gotten from T400.</p>

 

</body>

 

</html>