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Koni Omega Cameras - What, How, Why, etc.!!


jerry_vincent

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In the fall of 1993, a friend and I were photographing landscapes in the Charlottesville VA area. I have always been enthralled with a church in the small community of Cismont, nestled in lovely horse country. It is a beautiful setting but the dickens to photograph. As an experiment, I suggested that we use identical set ups, with his Hasselblad 501C /80mm and I with my Koni-Omega Rapid/90mm. I supplied the film, Kodak PXP, and developed both rolls in my darkroom in fresh D76 1:1, 68.0 deg F., identical agitation. The cameras were set identically both aperture and shutter speed. A Bogen 3046 tripod with a 3047 head was set for eye level (5.5 ft) height. A cable release was used, of course. The only compensation employed was a slight change in distance to compensate for the difference in lens focal length. Both cameras were focused at 25 feet and stopped down to give maximum depth of field. The cameras were tilted slightly upward, which gave a little convergence which I hoped would create a feeling of uplift.

 

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The resulting negatives were taped together on a light box window with opaque Strattford board and masking tape to disguise the formats and shown to three local professional photographers. I ask them to identify the image produced by the Hasselblad. After considerable of discussion on acuitance, sharpness, gray gradation, contrast, and other more esoteric qualities, the three agreed on one. You might imagine their surprise when I removed the tape revealing the formats. They had picked the 6x7 negative from the Koni-Omega.

 

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What does this prove? Not much, really. Prints from the two negatives can not be differentiated. I used to be sheepish about discussing equipment with owners of more expensive and modern cameras but not any more. For the type of photography I enjoy, landscape, portrait, and still life, I have all the equipment necessary. I don�t do weddings (I can�t handle brides or their mothers), I do few close-ups requiring slr technology, and I am a snob about my work, not the equipment used to get it done. I hear few carpenters argue over who has the best hammer (although I once had to break up a fist fight between two musicians over the best way to carve a clarinet reed - truely). :-)

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The "M" and "200" models have removeable magazines (which allows for

changing emulsions in mid-roll), if you can dig up the front part of

the magazine.<p>I have a small review of the RO 200 on my site at

<a href="http://web.mit.edu/mliu/web/medformat/konireview.html">this address</a>.

There is also a Koni-Omega mailing list floating about somewhere (I

think I have the address, but it's buried somewhere at home ...)

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I borrowed a Koni-Omega outfit with 90mm and 58mm lenses to compare with my Pentax 67. The weight was about the same, chromes were excellent with both lenses-like a P67. The Koni was just too funky with all kinds of odd things sticking out. The film advance seemed very unreliable on the one I had. I couldn't make it work with any of the several pro cable releases I tried. You can get the basic camera and lens for $200 to $300. I prefer the P67 (which has its own pecularities)
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